jcnsue

Hello, Just dropped the car off the stands, all buttoned up, took a first drive. Car started, idled and seemed to rev ok in neutral. Drove around, seems to want to build boost, but as soon as i lean in it at all it seems like it wants to go, i can tell the the boost is starting but then kind of wont pick up anymore like its starving for air or something. let off the gas, and the blowoff relieves. The install included greddy turbo, manifold, intercooler, vortech fuel pressure unit(the return fuel line After the fuel rail is going into the bottom center of the vortech unit, right?) 2.5" downpipe, 3" out the back. Checked all tubes and couplers, all seem ok, none seem to be binding or collapsed. I also installed a Jackson racing timin control unit set at 12 where the instructions said to. Please help, this is my daily driver, I can drive it gingerly and it will go fine. Go up a hill and accelerate, no downshift and it just wont go. Seems like there is a restiction or something. Could it be a fule type issue Any suggestions ,thanks, I've got plenty of pics if needed. was looking aroun and noticed some people were talking about the O2 sensor position. mine is about 4-5 inches down from the turbo. is this too close.

kotomile

iTrader: (24)

Plugs?

jcnsue

stock plugs with about 50k on them, car only has 62k on it. I could try that to start, tomorrow. any recommendations. it was dark when we drove it, but seemed to put out some smoke or thin cloud of something when i tried to lean on it.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

Someone wanna comment on the FPR routing? Isn't the center bottom the FPR exit?

viperormiata

iTrader: (24)

^^^+1

Koto is right, check plugs first. I had the same fuel/timing units on my Sebring Blower. They can be a bitch, just play around with them, every setup is different but, there is a sweet spot.

But please! Don't be too anxious to drive the car hard, its not worth it. Fuel and timing accident and then....no car

jcnsue

i wasn't absolutely sure which way to go on that. I just checked the car and two of us looked at it reading the greddy instr. gosh darn, i've got it backwards. Just curious, what does that do having the lines reversed. i'll switch them tomorrow, too tired. on the plugs, I checked them, thay are Bosch platinum. thaey look ok but i'll try new for a fresh start, what to use????

NA6C-Guy

iTrader: (1)

50k on the plugs!? I try to change mine at least every 10k miles. they are only like $10-$15 a set. For sure start with that.

jcnsue

OK, i think i've got this Vortech FMU thing all screwed up. Please tell me which line is the return to the tank. Is it the one coming out of the original pressure reg. near the firewall or the line out of the forward end of the fuel rail. Man, i'm messed up tonight. I searched and SamS had a diagram which doesn't look like the way I plumbed mine. Hard week at work, man am i glad its friday, er saturday now.

curly

iTrader: (25)

Return line is the one coming from the stock fuel pressure regulator, at the back of the fuel line. It should also be the hard line mounted closest to the front bumper.

DEFINITELY change your plugs, also keep in mind miata's like to eat plug wires. If your plugs are stock, I'm guessing the wires are too? If so, replace them as well. Everyone and their sister will suggest blue NGK wires, and if you can get those, get them. But if not, I've had decent luck with a no-name NAPA brand of wires.

Remember you are adding half again the power over stock hp. Before turbo charging, your engine should be in tip top shape. New fuel filter, plugs, wires, oil change, no existing overheating issues, good tires and brakes, etc. Just something to keep in mind.

jcnsue

OK, just checked, I picked the wrong line. Swap it tomorrow. That will prob explain the dead wall i was hitting, I guess the boost tried to build, the vortech unit clampe off the fuel line TO the regulator,and guess what, no fule. DUH, how stupid. Thanks for the info, Plugs, wires, switch those lines tomorrow, and take it for another spin. Got my fingers crossed. all else is good.

kotomile

iTrader: (24)

It's absolutely the problem, haha, not probably!

You'll still want to switch out plugs, I've never been impressed with platinums or anything fancy in my car. In fact, the last time someone thought they'd "help" and installed a set of platinums without my knowledge, I was getting blowout at anything over 5-6 psi, and that was with COPs!

For low boost, NGK BKR6E is fine. I ran those for awhile on my high(er) boost engine too, but I have a lot more engine management control than you. To be on the safe side, go one step colder, which is a BKR7E.

jcnsue

switched plugs today, unfortunately before
I read this, went with bosch platinum, same ones were in it. again, now having idle issues. runs fine, boost no pinging, etc. except after 5-7 sec. of idling at a stop, engine goes in to an eratic, rough type idle, and stays that way until i drive again. then again will idle clean for 5-7 then rough after that. was playing with the AFM and noticed that if i just pushed it in a bit, a VERY small bit, the idle kicked up and smoothed out. Someone suggested a boost leak test, i don't know what or how to do that. where can i find that. thanks again.
I'm getting there.