What do i need with the begi s kit?
02-06-2008, 11:16 AM
#1
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What do i need with the begi s kit?
So far ive got:
mspnp (w/ vtps sensor and Mapdaddy mod)
460's
sr20 t25 (getting mailed)
Need to get:
Front mount (possibly 22x8x3)
Clutch
Anything else?
I was orignially going to get the begi s kit and source my own turbo, in order to save a little money. Then tune for 6psi, then 10, then 15. Now im thinking i should just get the begi s kit without crossover tube, without turbo, and without the fpr.
So my question is does anyone know how much the begi kit will cost without those items?
I will eventually go with a 6 puck act once fully tuned for 6psi.
Thanks
mspnp (w/ vtps sensor and Mapdaddy mod)
460's
sr20 t25 (getting mailed)
Need to get:
Front mount (possibly 22x8x3)
Clutch
Anything else?
I was orignially going to get the begi s kit and source my own turbo, in order to save a little money. Then tune for 6psi, then 10, then 15. Now im thinking i should just get the begi s kit without crossover tube, without turbo, and without the fpr.
So my question is does anyone know how much the begi kit will cost without those items?
I will eventually go with a 6 puck act once fully tuned for 6psi.
Thanks
Last edited by thesnowboarder; 02-06-2008 at 05:36 PM.
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02-06-2008, 11:37 AM
#3
Boost Czar
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they shave a few bucks off. probably close to $800. since basically you're only buying a manifold DP and oil lines.....you may just want to buy the parts you need separately.
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02-06-2008, 12:38 PM
#7
I went over this with Steph. The DP and Mani alone will cost you as much as the Begi-S kit. Order the whole kit, then upgrade and substitute out what you don't need for what you need. The kit will start at the BEGI-S base price and they will refund money for what you don't need and charge you upgrade prices for what you want instead.
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02-06-2008, 01:38 PM
#9
I went over this with Steph. The DP and Mani alone will cost you as much as the Begi-S kit. Order the whole kit, then upgrade and substitute out what you don't need for what you need. The kit will start at the BEGI-S base price and they will refund money for what you don't need and charge you upgrade prices for what you want instead.
1.6 Manifold = $389
1.6 S Downpipe = $239
Total = $628
1.6 S Kit = $1685
Either way I'd go with the DG down pipe over the S pipe. The S pipe looks a lot like the stock Greddy unit.
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02-06-2008, 01:50 PM
#10
Then you need everything else: like oil/water lines/fittings, piping, injectors, BOV, air filter, tap/bit, hoses, clamps, wires, etc... That's why the Begi S kit is so damn easy... it comes with all the "little" **** up front, and is "ready" for any of the upgrades... and it comes with a brand new GT turbo.
On top of the "S" kit, in order to run serious boost, you'll need:
Charge Cooling (WI or IC): $300
BOV: $50
Injectors: $100
EMS: MS=$450
Wideband: LC1= $190
Clutch: $400
... and that's it.
We're talking $3.5k for an easy 250whp.
I think it's pretty clear that the new "highly recommended" path to Miata boost for people looking at turn-key brand new components is this order:
1: Begi "S" kit. 150whp
2: Charge cooling of some sort w/BOV. 160-170whp
3: Megasquirt w/LC1, EBC, and 550's(only used part to buy). whp limited by clutch
4: Clutch: ACT XT or Clutchmasters Red+3PP+OrganicDisc. 250+whp
If I had to start from scratch... the above is exactly what I'd do... save and purchase in that order.
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02-06-2008, 05:31 PM
#15
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I've got a turbo being mailed to me any time now
MSPNP is on its way as well
Injectors should be done cleaning in a week or so
I plan on getting the s kit and working around a turbo/fpr/crossover pipe because i would like to have that carb sticker (have they worked the kinks out of that yet).
Things i have forgotten about/Still need to buy:
LC1-WB -- How important is a gauge? keep in mind i will/do attend track events.
Some ACT clutch, still need to do a little research on what is for my power goals.
S kit - w/SS divorced dp W/ out turbo crossover pipe and FPR.
FMIC-ebay- 22x8x3- Im thinking i may just have an exhaust shop weld up some pipes for me.
BOV- Any suggestions, i don't want one that is super loud and attracting attention.
Couplers for TB to cold pipe/ Cold pipe to FMIC/ FMIC to hotside? hotside to turbo.
MSPNP is on its way as well
Injectors should be done cleaning in a week or so
I plan on getting the s kit and working around a turbo/fpr/crossover pipe because i would like to have that carb sticker (have they worked the kinks out of that yet).
Things i have forgotten about/Still need to buy:
LC1-WB -- How important is a gauge? keep in mind i will/do attend track events.
Some ACT clutch, still need to do a little research on what is for my power goals.
S kit - w/SS divorced dp W/ out turbo crossover pipe and FPR.
FMIC-ebay- 22x8x3- Im thinking i may just have an exhaust shop weld up some pipes for me.
BOV- Any suggestions, i don't want one that is super loud and attracting attention.
Couplers for TB to cold pipe/ Cold pipe to FMIC/ FMIC to hotside? hotside to turbo.
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02-06-2008, 06:00 PM
#16
With MS, converting your car back to Cali-ready will take about an hour.
All you'll need to do is swap in the original ECU, stock injectors, and hook up the AFPR again (leave it installed on the firewall, but bypass it when you go MS), and hook the MAF back up. Then reconfigure the LC1 for narrowband sim... and that should do it. It should run off wastegate boost cause the EBC won't be getting a signal... so you should be fine for a sniifer and visual.
I'm not sure what Cali law is about running an aftermarket 02 sensor on the stock ECU... in that case, you'd need to re-install the stocker as well.
A gauge for the LC1 isn't necessary. Through the Megasquirt software, you'll be able to see much more accurately exactly what your AF's are. For street tuning, the software also has great datalogging capability. Once the car is tuned, an AF gauge is just so much bling.
The quietest BOV is a Bosch OEM unit... or a Forge like Begi sells. There's no real "sound" like something from F&F... it's just sounds like air being released. Recirculate it to be even quieter.
Do you have AC or PS?
All you'll need to do is swap in the original ECU, stock injectors, and hook up the AFPR again (leave it installed on the firewall, but bypass it when you go MS), and hook the MAF back up. Then reconfigure the LC1 for narrowband sim... and that should do it. It should run off wastegate boost cause the EBC won't be getting a signal... so you should be fine for a sniifer and visual.
I'm not sure what Cali law is about running an aftermarket 02 sensor on the stock ECU... in that case, you'd need to re-install the stocker as well.
A gauge for the LC1 isn't necessary. Through the Megasquirt software, you'll be able to see much more accurately exactly what your AF's are. For street tuning, the software also has great datalogging capability. Once the car is tuned, an AF gauge is just so much bling.
The quietest BOV is a Bosch OEM unit... or a Forge like Begi sells. There's no real "sound" like something from F&F... it's just sounds like air being released. Recirculate it to be even quieter.
Do you have AC or PS?
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02-06-2008, 08:03 PM
#17
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With MS, converting your car back to Cali-ready will take about an hour.
All you'll need to do is swap in the original ECU, stock injectors, and hook up the AFPR again (leave it installed on the firewall, but bypass it when you go MS), and hook the MAF back up. Then reconfigure the LC1 for narrowband sim... and that should do it. It should run off wastegate boost cause the EBC won't be getting a signal... so you should be fine for a sniifer and visual.
I'm not sure what Cali law is about running an aftermarket 02 sensor on the stock ECU... in that case, you'd need to re-install the stocker as well.
A gauge for the LC1 isn't necessary. Through the Megasquirt software, you'll be able to see much more accurately exactly what your AF's are. For street tuning, the software also has great datalogging capability. Once the car is tuned, an AF gauge is just so much bling.
The quietest BOV is a Bosch OEM unit... or a Forge like Begi sells. There's no real "sound" like something from F&F... it's just sounds like air being released. Recirculate it to be even quieter.
Do you have AC or PS?
All you'll need to do is swap in the original ECU, stock injectors, and hook up the AFPR again (leave it installed on the firewall, but bypass it when you go MS), and hook the MAF back up. Then reconfigure the LC1 for narrowband sim... and that should do it. It should run off wastegate boost cause the EBC won't be getting a signal... so you should be fine for a sniifer and visual.
I'm not sure what Cali law is about running an aftermarket 02 sensor on the stock ECU... in that case, you'd need to re-install the stocker as well.
A gauge for the LC1 isn't necessary. Through the Megasquirt software, you'll be able to see much more accurately exactly what your AF's are. For street tuning, the software also has great datalogging capability. Once the car is tuned, an AF gauge is just so much bling.
The quietest BOV is a Bosch OEM unit... or a Forge like Begi sells. There's no real "sound" like something from F&F... it's just sounds like air being released. Recirculate it to be even quieter.
Do you have AC or PS?
PS is out, as for AC i just need to find time to get it de-charged and then ill be removing it.
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02-06-2008, 09:21 PM
#18
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I think it's pretty clear that the new "highly recommended" path to Miata boost for people looking at turn-key brand new components is this order:
1: Begi "S" kit. 150whp
2: Charge cooling of some sort w/BOV. 160-170whp
3: Megasquirt w/LC1, EBC, and 550's(only used part to buy). whp limited by clutch
4: Clutch: ACT XT or Clutchmasters Red+3PP+OrganicDisc. 250+whp
If I had to start from scratch... the above is exactly what I'd do... save and purchase in that order.
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