Miata with SAFC and 440cc hard to start
02-27-2013, 09:24 PM
#1
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Quebec Canada
Posts: 36
Total Cats: 1
Miata with SAFC and 440cc hard to start
Hello Miataturbo peeps!
Im actually into a dead end and can't find the way out!! I really hope you guys can help! First I will describe my setup with the more details I could give so you guys can get the right info before trying to help!!
Car : 1989 JDM miata
Engine : 1.6 STOCK
Custom turbo kit, 13g turbo from an eagle talon
2.25 inch piping with a 22 X 6 X 2.75 intercooler
2.5 inch downpipe and 2.5 inch full exhaust no muffler, no cat , no resonator
Turbo XS BOV
Ebay turbo manifold
Stock FPR
Stock Fuel pump
Stock AFM
Rx8 Green injectors 440cc high impedance
Apexi SAFC
8 psi of boost
AEM Uego Wideband
i think thats it!!
So the problem is starting the car... it start.... after like 20-30seconds sometime 1min cranking... and with the gaz pedal to the floor.. but once its started A/F is PERFECT varies from 14.7-14.9 on idle and cruising in the city with no load. During boost the A/f varies from 10.7-11.2 (which is a little rich but doesnt matter for the moment). I already tightened the AFM spring because even with the lowest value on the SAFC the car was running WAY TOO RICH!!
So when its started the car runs perfect!! when is stop it and try the re-start it again its the same story again cant start it well except cranking it 30sec or so..
anyone have an idea other than going with MS! i build this complete turbo kit for around 800 bucks and its a kind of challenge i gave to myself building the cheapest and reliable turbo kit possible for my car.
If i could simply tweak a sensor to get less fuel injection on start because i clearly smell gaz during the cranking process before it start..
Im actually into a dead end and can't find the way out!! I really hope you guys can help! First I will describe my setup with the more details I could give so you guys can get the right info before trying to help!!
Car : 1989 JDM miata
Engine : 1.6 STOCK
Custom turbo kit, 13g turbo from an eagle talon
2.25 inch piping with a 22 X 6 X 2.75 intercooler
2.5 inch downpipe and 2.5 inch full exhaust no muffler, no cat , no resonator
Turbo XS BOV
Ebay turbo manifold
Stock FPR
Stock Fuel pump
Stock AFM
Rx8 Green injectors 440cc high impedance
Apexi SAFC
8 psi of boost
AEM Uego Wideband
i think thats it!!
So the problem is starting the car... it start.... after like 20-30seconds sometime 1min cranking... and with the gaz pedal to the floor.. but once its started A/F is PERFECT varies from 14.7-14.9 on idle and cruising in the city with no load. During boost the A/f varies from 10.7-11.2 (which is a little rich but doesnt matter for the moment). I already tightened the AFM spring because even with the lowest value on the SAFC the car was running WAY TOO RICH!!
So when its started the car runs perfect!! when is stop it and try the re-start it again its the same story again cant start it well except cranking it 30sec or so..
anyone have an idea other than going with MS! i build this complete turbo kit for around 800 bucks and its a kind of challenge i gave to myself building the cheapest and reliable turbo kit possible for my car.
If i could simply tweak a sensor to get less fuel injection on start because i clearly smell gaz during the cranking process before it start..
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02-27-2013, 09:25 PM
#2
Hello Miataturbo peeps!
Im actually into a dead end and can't find the way out!! I really hope you guys can help! First I will describe my setup with the more details I could give so you guys can get the right info before trying to help!!
Car : 1989 JDM miata
Engine : 1.6 STOCK
Custom turbo kit, 13g turbo from an eagle talon
2.25 inch piping with a 22 X 6 X 2.75 intercooler
2.5 inch downpipe and 2.5 inch full exhaust no muffler, no cat , no resonator
Turbo XS BOV
Ebay turbo manifold
Stock FPR
Stock Fuel pump
Stock AFM
Rx8 Green injectors 440cc high impedance
Apexi SAFC
8 psi of boost
AEM Uego Wideband
i think thats it!!
So the problem is starting the car... it start.... after like 20-30seconds sometime 1min cranking... and with the gaz pedal to the floor.. but once its started A/F is PERFECT varies from 14.7-14.9 on idle and cruising in the city with no load. During boost the A/f varies from 10.7-11.2 (which is a little rich but doesnt matter for the moment). I already tightened the AFM spring because even with the lowest value on the SAFC the car was running WAY TOO RICH!!
So when its started the car runs perfect!! when is stop it and try the re-start it again its the same story again cant start it well except cranking it 30sec or so..
anyone have an idea other than going with MS! i build this complete turbo kit for around 800 bucks and its a kind of challenge i gave to myself building the cheapest and reliable turbo kit possible for my car.
If i could simply tweak a sensor to get less fuel injection on start because i clearly smell gaz during the cranking process before it start..
Im actually into a dead end and can't find the way out!! I really hope you guys can help! First I will describe my setup with the more details I could give so you guys can get the right info before trying to help!!
Car : 1989 JDM miata
Engine : 1.6 STOCK
Custom turbo kit, 13g turbo from an eagle talon
2.25 inch piping with a 22 X 6 X 2.75 intercooler
2.5 inch downpipe and 2.5 inch full exhaust no muffler, no cat , no resonator
Turbo XS BOV
Ebay turbo manifold
Stock FPR
Stock Fuel pump
Stock AFM
Rx8 Green injectors 440cc high impedance
Apexi SAFC
8 psi of boost
AEM Uego Wideband
i think thats it!!
So the problem is starting the car... it start.... after like 20-30seconds sometime 1min cranking... and with the gaz pedal to the floor.. but once its started A/F is PERFECT varies from 14.7-14.9 on idle and cruising in the city with no load. During boost the A/f varies from 10.7-11.2 (which is a little rich but doesnt matter for the moment). I already tightened the AFM spring because even with the lowest value on the SAFC the car was running WAY TOO RICH!!
So when its started the car runs perfect!! when is stop it and try the re-start it again its the same story again cant start it well except cranking it 30sec or so..
anyone have an idea other than going with MS! i build this complete turbo kit for around 800 bucks and its a kind of challenge i gave to myself building the cheapest and reliable turbo kit possible for my car.
If i could simply tweak a sensor to get less fuel injection on start because i clearly smell gaz during the cranking process before it start..
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02-27-2013, 09:36 PM
#3
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Quebec Canada
Posts: 36
Total Cats: 1
I've been running that turbo kit for 1 complete year on FMU and 260cc injectors...
I changed to bigger injectors only 2 days ago...otherwize the car was running fine except a little to borderline on a/f and had no control on it without a safc!
dont threw on my post..help is definitely more effective than throwing rocks to a person!
once i get it starting well ill post up some video of the car pulling some gear to show u guys the impressive result for the low cost
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02-27-2013, 10:36 PM
#8
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Quebec Canada
Posts: 36
Total Cats: 1
Wow... i was hoping to get help or advice... not this kind of answer...
guys how can u juge someone's car without even see the result of it.. you guys should be less negative and be more open mind to others idea than spend 10 gran and expert a race car.. this is a daily car and not intend to drag race .. its just for fun
guys how can u juge someone's car without even see the result of it.. you guys should be less negative and be more open mind to others idea than spend 10 gran and expert a race car.. this is a daily car and not intend to drag race .. its just for fun
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02-27-2013, 10:46 PM
#10
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 5,155
Total Cats: 406
We know its a piece of crap because you told us its a piece of crap.
We will give you advice, but it wont be how to further ghetto rig it. You want advice? well here it is.
THROW THE SAFC IN THE ******* GARBAGE. It is a piece of **** that has no use on ANY car. If anybody tells you otherwise they are retarded.
Once you have thrown the SAFC in the garabge, pick up a megasquirt and welcome yourself to the world of proper engine management.
Also, did you get those used injectors cleaned? If not, stop boosting before you melt a piston.
We will give you advice, but it wont be how to further ghetto rig it. You want advice? well here it is.
THROW THE SAFC IN THE ******* GARBAGE. It is a piece of **** that has no use on ANY car. If anybody tells you otherwise they are retarded.
Once you have thrown the SAFC in the garabge, pick up a megasquirt and welcome yourself to the world of proper engine management.
Also, did you get those used injectors cleaned? If not, stop boosting before you melt a piston.
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02-27-2013, 11:07 PM
#11
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Quebec Canada
Posts: 36
Total Cats: 1
We know its a piece of crap because you told us its a piece of crap.
We will give you advice, but it wont be how to further ghetto rig it. You want advice? well here it is.
THROW THE SAFC IN THE ******* GARBAGE. It is a piece of **** that has no use on ANY car. If anybody tells you otherwise they are retarded.
Once you have thrown the SAFC in the garabge, pick up a megasquirt and welcome yourself to the world of proper engine management.
Also, did you get those used injectors cleaned? If not, stop boosting before you melt a piston.
We will give you advice, but it wont be how to further ghetto rig it. You want advice? well here it is.
THROW THE SAFC IN THE ******* GARBAGE. It is a piece of **** that has no use on ANY car. If anybody tells you otherwise they are retarded.
Once you have thrown the SAFC in the garabge, pick up a megasquirt and welcome yourself to the world of proper engine management.
Also, did you get those used injectors cleaned? If not, stop boosting before you melt a piston.
instead of telling me throw the SAFC in the ******* garbage i would like to understand WHY its not good?? I want to understand why its not good as you say and then i could get a good opinion about it.. because so far you didnt told me any point why its so bad!
Dont just tell someone dont do it... help him understand why.. because now im really lost about it why..
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02-28-2013, 12:19 AM
#13
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Quebec Canada
Posts: 36
Total Cats: 1
Yes i understand your point now.. but i already changed my timing advance for 5 degree less.. it may not be exactly perfect but for now on its gonna be so...
well lookslike i wont get my answer here anyway.
I dunno about previous user maybe they just pissed you guys with retard question but my question wasnt that stupid .. im just trying to make the car start easier. Im not getting any predetonation and im not running lean either.. Of course I know a standalone like MS is always better, but I would like to try without it.
well lookslike i wont get my answer here anyway.
I dunno about previous user maybe they just pissed you guys with retard question but my question wasnt that stupid .. im just trying to make the car start easier. Im not getting any predetonation and im not running lean either.. Of course I know a standalone like MS is always better, but I would like to try without it.
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02-28-2013, 12:31 AM
#14
It's not that your question is dumb. It's just that you have compiled the "list of parts to absolutely not buy" which until today didn't actually exist in reality. But here you have done all the hard work and gathered them all up, as an example to everyone for the future.
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02-28-2013, 12:38 AM
#15
Hello Miataturbo peeps!
Im actually into a dead end and can't find the way out!! I really hope you guys can help! First I will describe my setup with the more details I could give so you guys can get the right info before trying to help!!
Car : 1989 JDM miata
Engine : 1.6 STOCK
Custom turbo kit, 13g turbo from an eagle talon
2.25 inch piping with a 22 X 6 X 2.75 intercooler
2.5 inch downpipe and 2.5 inch full exhaust no muffler, no cat , no resonator
Turbo XS BOV
Ebay turbo manifold
Stock FPR
Stock Fuel pump
Stock AFM
Rx8 Green injectors 440cc high impedance
Apexi SAFC
8 psi of boost
AEM Uego Wideband
i think thats it!!
So the problem is starting the car... it start.... after like 20-30seconds sometime 1min cranking... and with the gaz pedal to the floor.. but once its started A/F is PERFECT varies from 14.7-14.9 on idle and cruising in the city with no load. During boost the A/f varies from 10.7-11.2 (which is a little rich but doesnt matter for the moment). I already tightened the AFM spring because even with the lowest value on the SAFC the car was running WAY TOO RICH!!
Im actually into a dead end and can't find the way out!! I really hope you guys can help! First I will describe my setup with the more details I could give so you guys can get the right info before trying to help!!
Car : 1989 JDM miata
Engine : 1.6 STOCK
Custom turbo kit, 13g turbo from an eagle talon
2.25 inch piping with a 22 X 6 X 2.75 intercooler
2.5 inch downpipe and 2.5 inch full exhaust no muffler, no cat , no resonator
Turbo XS BOV
Ebay turbo manifold
Stock FPR
Stock Fuel pump
Stock AFM
Rx8 Green injectors 440cc high impedance
Apexi SAFC
8 psi of boost
AEM Uego Wideband
i think thats it!!
So the problem is starting the car... it start.... after like 20-30seconds sometime 1min cranking... and with the gaz pedal to the floor.. but once its started A/F is PERFECT varies from 14.7-14.9 on idle and cruising in the city with no load. During boost the A/f varies from 10.7-11.2 (which is a little rich but doesnt matter for the moment). I already tightened the AFM spring because even with the lowest value on the SAFC the car was running WAY TOO RICH!!
If you are absolutely hell bent on using that confounded piece of ****, at least do it right. Cut the wire that taps into the TPS, and instead wire up a map sensor as the adjustment mechanism. TPS is a ******* horrendous way to determine load on a turbocharged car.
once i get it starting well ill post up some video of the car pulling some gear to show u guys the impressive result for the low cost
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02-28-2013, 12:55 AM
#16
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Quebec Canada
Posts: 36
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This **** is confuckulated, there's your problem.
If you are absolutely hell bent on using that confounded piece of ****, at least do it right. Cut the wire that taps into the TPS, and instead wire up a map sensor as the adjustment mechanism. TPS is a ******* horrendous way to determine load on a turbocharged car.
If you are absolutely hell bent on using that confounded piece of ****, at least do it right. Cut the wire that taps into the TPS, and instead wire up a map sensor as the adjustment mechanism. TPS is a ******* horrendous way to determine load on a turbocharged car.
Im already using a map sensor instead of the TPS sensor as the "fake tps signal" in the SAFC. I knew that already i just forgot to mention it.
And as you can read clearly like i said. Its really giving an IMPRESSIVE pull for the 800$ I spend... i doubt you could find a miata with a total of 800$ engine mod to pull that good as mine... not saying im the number 1, im just saying i think i did good with a budget that low. I planned at the beginning a 1000$ turbo kit just for fun.
Well anyway i'll try to figure this out tomorrow.
BTW if it could interest anybody i made a video of my miata project online if anyone curious to see how its running
Last edited by stevenmiata; 02-28-2013 at 12:56 AM. Reason: wrong adress for video
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02-28-2013, 08:37 AM
#20
Ok your problem is that the car is injecting WAYYYYYYYYYYY too much fuel at cranking. Hence why you need to floor the throttle (which puts the car in flood clear mode and doesnt inject fuel). You dont have the ability to adjust this with your current engine management system.
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