Braineack

iTrader: (62)

Al Hounos

http://flyinmiata.com/tech/dyno.asp

Check the comparison between the two. Sacrifice lots of midrange grunt for 10hp on the top end? No thanks. If I'm gonna get a big turbo, I'll get a BIG turbo.

y8s

iTrader: (8)

do the DSMs you run have stock drivelines? trannies? diffs? cuz there's a heap of non-miata parts you'll need if you want to just drop in 500 hp worth of compressed air.

P90Puma

You should care about what the other forums think, where else would you get information from? If it has been proven in one application you should try to emulate it for your own platform. Nobody wants to reinvent the wheel everytime.

Sorry dude, it's not me that is having trouble with the terminology it is a bunch of you guys.

I don't mean to be a dick, or get off on the wrong foot.

But the purpose of a forum is to contribute.

I like it here, bunch of info, and a bunch of good people. But calling what you guys consider an "AFPR" an AFPR is blatently wrong. Any pressure regulator that does not replace the entire stock regulator, is worthless. Sure maybe it might work, but it is not the proper way to do things. Why risk your motor on a stock unit that may fail at anytime and was not designed to be used in conjuction with higher fuel pressures. Somebody got the idea assbackwards, and is doing it completely against what everyone (as in the rest of the automotive world) is doing, and a bunch of people here are following blindly.

I fail to understand why the instant reaction is hostility, must be some mob mentality or some other pyschobabble bullshit. The proof is evident if you just look outside of your own little forum.

Whatever guys, If you guys don't want to see the reason, whatever. I willl drop the subject, I was trying to help with reducing the disinformation.

Let's get back to the original topic, sorry for the threadjack!

P90Puma

Yea for the most part you can run on the stock drivetrain, Too bad you cant do the same on the miata

Consensus from what I have read is the stock 5 speed blows up from 250-300+whp. 6 speed is a bit better. One of the reasons I am limiting myself to around 250-300whp is the tranny. Tranny issues suck.

Ben

iTrader: (33)

You're wrong.

Al Hounos

this just in guys, Corky Bell doesn't know **** about nothin.

Pitlab77

iTrader: (3)

lol

There are more than a handful of 500rwhp miata, they are just not public and not all use the original factory motor.


And this is not a DSM, thats why are cars are running all the time :gay:

RusMan

Alrighty then!

Tranny is mostly why I'm not going for more than 250-300whp as well, I might upgrade to a 6speed but those are pricey.

Ordered some more parts today, Fidanza 8lb flywheel, ACT HD 6puck sprung clutch, and unorthodox racing crank pulley.
But I don't know if I should use the pulley or stick with the stock one? What do you guys think? I talked to a local race shop and they said they use them with no problems at all, .net says they destroy engines, I don't know if I should put it in or not. BTW the whole engine will be balanced with pistons, rods, flywheel, pressure plate, and pulley.

Al Hounos

why risk your engine for an extra 2whp? send that pulley back.

boostinsteve

Wow, this thread got way off topic. My recommendation to Rusman is to call Corky or Garret and ask them where to get a new wheel from. You already have a good turbo, especially the power that you want. The compressor will still be fairly efficient at that point. I would also just keep the emu and run 550cc injectors. My .02, and keep up that great looking car. Can't wait to see what you get out of it.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

I would like to reiterate:

Corky Bell, who wrote "maximum boost," helped develop the AFPR in the 70s and has been using it on his miata turbo kits since the early 90s. That's how he did it on his first miata turbo kit, and how he still does it today.

In case you dont believe me: BEGi's Chief Engineer, Corky Bell, has 27 years of experience with forced induction design. Corky has earned an engineering degree from Texas A&M, and authored two books on forced induction "Maximum Boost" and "Supercharged". Bell has designed over 90 forced induction systems, of which over 15 are currently in production.

BEGi has enjoyed an excellent relationship with the automotive media. BEGi and it's product line, Cartech Racing Products, have been featured in over 120 magazine articles in the past twenty years. Writers and road testers have repeatedly commented favorably about our engineering capability and the craftsmanship of the components.

His FMU has proven to work well, so well infact, several other kit makers agree; Vortech, Paxton, ProCharger, and Powerdyne all use virtually direct copies of the design he introduced in 1975. So no, we are not the only crazy people doing it.

There is no risk of the stock FPR failing, especially since it must be rated by industry standards to pass a 450psi actual test to be allowed on the vehicle. With that said I've never heard of one case of a failed OEM FPR.

Because there is no risk, your FPR will still maintain a 35psi idle and rise to 50psi at 0~hg. Given you perfectly stock like driveability out of boost. That gives you one less thing to worry about. And since you do not have to replace it, the only thing you need to do is adjust your rise in boost. The FMU is designed to simply clamp down on the return line and raise your fuel pressure with an X:1 ratio. Anywhere from 1:1 to 12:1.


FWIW
This quote came from Keith at flyin' miata, which is pretty much where the term got coined.

The rising rate regulator + oem fpr + appropriate fuel pump + an ignition retard has produced 200 bhp at least a few thousand times. Successfully.


chill the **** out dude.

RusMan

Ordered a new turbine wheel today, thanks cjernigan for the tip! Is it hard to replace it, do I have to rebalance it once it's installed? I don't know anyone who can do it locally.

Ok which 550's are plug and play?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

whered you get it from Gpop? Even if he doesn't have what you need, he's damn good about finding something for you.

Efini~FC3S

iTrader: (4)

Maybe everyone should just go stand alone and then we wouldn't have to argue about aftermarket fuel pressure regulators.

To me it sounds like the stock fpr + auxillary fpr combo has worked flawlessly for lots of people. Why fix what's not broken...

cjernigan

iTrader: (13)

You can replace the wheel yourself but you will still need to get it balanced. I can get it done locally cheap. But in your case what I would do is find a diesel mechanic local to you and ask them where they get their turbos serviced. They always know where the turbo rebuilders/servicers are. If you can't find anything locally then get ahold of gpop again and see what he says, he does balancing at his shop.

As for which 550s are plug and play you want some RX7 injectors 550 high impedance ending in denso part # -2020. You can get them used from rx7club.com most the time. There is a guy on there japan2la (i think) and he always offers up his injectors. He parts out 7 motors and has tons of them. He charges $100 plus shipping. You can get them cheaper if you keep your eye out. Look at brains FAQ for PNP injectors though man he has all the specs for them.

RusMan

Yeah, I got the wheel at gpop, just need to find someone to balance it for me.

And I'll be on the lookout for the injectors, thanks for all the help doods.

cjernigan

iTrader: (13)

When you remove the wheel, don't use something like a ratchet or wrench to do it with. You want something with more of a T handle because if you torque on it un evenly you can bend the shaft. Also don't forget the nut is reverse thread.

Mouglie

thats because those ridiculous sunglasses don't
let him read past 3rd grade level...

RicanmiataRacer

This is rusmans thread man, back on topic for the love of god