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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 09-21-2016, 03:31 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Forrest95M
yes the iat wires should go to the IAT pin and power ground, the order doesn't matter. I believe it isn't based on polarity
IAT is resistive so there is indeed no polarity on the sensor. Make sure you change the sensor curve setting in your tune, too.

Edit: whoa, I gotta refresh.
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Old 09-21-2016, 03:37 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by afm View Post
IAT is resistive so there is indeed no polarity on the sensor. Make sure you change the sensor curve setting in your tune, too.

Edit: whoa, I gotta refresh.
No problem! I have done that before. I was definitely a little confused at first though!
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Old 09-21-2016, 09:15 PM   #43
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It worked! (as confirmed with a hair dryer)

My first ever startup on MS was successfulish. It started and idled (thanks to the map that was already on it from Sklr), but AFR was around 8.5 at idle. I am trying to figure out what is causing that now because when Sklr had it running on this same car that was not happening.
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Old 09-21-2016, 11:16 PM   #44
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I did not wire the diybob for boost control. So, you will have to connect the appropriate pin from the ms3x (i think) to the appropriate pin on the diybob. For me, the car would idle at around 13.5-14 AFR. Maybe ASE is too aggressive? Many MS gurus here that will be in a better position to help out. But most will probably ask you to post a log.
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Old 09-22-2016, 10:27 AM   #45
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Originally Posted by Sklr View Post
I did not wire the diybob for boost control. So, you will have to connect the appropriate pin from the ms3x (i think) to the appropriate pin on the diybob. For me, the car would idle at around 13.5-14 AFR. Maybe ASE is too aggressive? Many MS gurus here that will be in a better position to help out. But most will probably ask you to post a log.
Got it. I will have to get that going before I buy/install turbo parts.

It turns out that it was running rich because I forgot to hook the MAP line up (I installed it a while ago and just had it plugged off in the engine bay). So basically MS thought the throttle was fully open at idle.

It started up and ran ok once I hooked the line in with the FPR vac. line. Unfortunately now I am having an issue where the AFR gauge in TunerStudio is all over the place and when it rarely is stable it reads 2 AFR greater than the AEM gauge. The AEM gauge is always stable and appears to be working properly. I think I may have a grounding issue but I am not sure because all of my connections are good. UEGO power ground is going to chassis. Analog input, power, and sensor ground are all going to the corresponding wires you had labeled coming out of the DIYBOB.
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Old 09-22-2016, 11:46 AM   #46
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Is the AEM ground sharing the same ground as the ecu? As for the two afr difference, you might need to change the afr voltage settings in Tunerstudio.
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Old 09-22-2016, 12:00 PM   #47
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Originally Posted by .one lane View Post
Is the AEM ground sharing the same ground as the ecu? As for the two afr difference, you might need to change the afr voltage settings in Tunerstudio.
The AEM UEGO has a power ground line (black) and a signal ground line (brown I believe). The power ground line is screwed into the sheet metal (chassis ground) while the signal ground is grounded to a signal ground line coming from my MS.

I am hesitant to change anything with AFR voltage settings right now because it really is all over the place. So much so that I don't really trust the 2 AFR difference that I saw for a few seconds earlier. But once I get the signal issue worked out I will definitely check that out if I still need to.
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Old 09-22-2016, 12:05 PM   #48
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You need to go into TS and in the drop down menu for calibrations is one for AFR. You will probably need to do custom values to get your AEM gauge to match TS. If you do some searching we have posted values to start with that are close.
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Old 09-22-2016, 12:10 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shuiend View Post
You need to go into TS and in the drop down menu for calibrations is one for AFR. You will probably need to do custom values to get your AEM gauge to match TS. If you do some searching we have posted values to start with that are close.
Could the fact that I did not calibrate it cause the erratic AFR values in TS?
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Old 09-22-2016, 12:39 PM   #50
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Could the fact that I did not calibrate it cause the erratic AFR values in TS?
If is set up for a narrow band or something with a much steeper slope than the AEM, yes it could.

Is the output on the AEM set to be wideband? I forgot and left mine on narrow band simlation before.... If it is a UEGO guage thing it should say POO when it starts up, that is wideband output. Narrow band is P04 or something.

Everyone chuckles that my wideband says POO when starting the car....
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Old 09-22-2016, 01:55 PM   #51
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Originally Posted by x_25 View Post
If is set up for a narrow band or something with a much steeper slope than the AEM, yes it could.

Is the output on the AEM set to be wideband? I forgot and left mine on narrow band simlation before.... If it is a UEGO guage thing it should say POO when it starts up, that is wideband output. Narrow band is P04 or something.

Everyone chuckles that my wideband says POO when starting the car....
I believe AEM output is set to wideband. I did not even realize that could be changed. I will check that tonight.
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Old 09-22-2016, 10:43 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by x_25 View Post
If is set up for a narrow band or something with a much steeper slope than the AEM, yes it could.

Is the output on the AEM set to be wideband? I forgot and left mine on narrow band simlation before.... If it is a UEGO guage thing it should say POO when it starts up, that is wideband output. Narrow band is P04 or something.

Everyone chuckles that my wideband says POO when starting the car....
For anyone who may be having the same problem, this was the issue. I never set it up as a wideband. Tools > Calibrate AFR table. I then selected custom linear wideband and used the values provided in the UEGO manual. TS AFR now matches AEM AFR gauge.
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Old 10-10-2016, 09:26 PM   #53
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I have a lead on some ID1000 injectors that I can probably get for $375 or at the most $400. The seller says they have 3000 miles on them and they do look like new. They also come with the Miata pigtails.

My question is, is it worth buying the ID1000s even though I have not even installed the DW700s that i bought? DWs were $230 used. I know ID1000s are highly praised on here, but is it worth the upgrade from the DWs?

Last edited by JD8; 10-10-2016 at 10:11 PM.
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