02-23-2009, 03:42 PM
Join Date: Dec 2008
Total Cats: 0
Ok I know all about this! First you have to decied cheap route with a carb or expensive route running a turbo!
You will need:
-Front casing from a 12A if you go carb'd route
-Entire front clip if you plan on running boosted
-New Driveshaft (if you have an aftermarket diff)
-New Diff, if running weak stock on (maybe you can score a complete donor RX7?)
-Modified Engine Mounts
-Modified Oil Pan
-Modified Slave Cylinder
-Modified rear axles
Reccomended Upgrades for boosted apps:
-Modified fuel line
-Modified brake lines
-Modified coil mounts
-Modified Radiator Brackets
Power steering is NOT an option with this upgarde nor will it ever be, sorry!
The modified subframe and engine mounts can be custom fabbed but its not for a DIYer that doesnt have a little skill as the vehicle will have to pass a VI to be road legal, atleast its like that up here in Canada. Mazsport.net used to sell a complete kit for a couple thousand that was a really nice piece dont know if its still available though.
We went carb'd just for the fact it was going to keep costs fairly low and the nightmare of hooking up a method of ignition on a EFI system is well long, complicated and were a bunch of lazy canucks!
Final out come was a 1992 NA with a balanced and blueprinted, bridgeported 13B with a 46IDA webber carb providing fuel control. The car has never been dyoned but its figured to be making ~200HP at the wheels with the capability of revving to 11,000RPMs
cost was about $6000CDN and took a little over a month to complete.
The rotary engine isnt more unreliable then any other engine it just requires more maitnence then a standard boinger engine because of the mechanics of the engine, also the rotary serves more of a purpose as a race engine it likes being abused within its limits. Also if you do this conversion be sure to remember the engine will always burn oil so keep up on that!