New turbo setup on my car, 2560 & version 2 begi/fm replacement tubular mani
07-01-2010, 11:00 PM
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New turbo setup on my car, 2560 & version 2 begi/fm replacement tubular mani
I finally got a turbo back on my car and the car off the jack stands after 6 months. I had my 9 year old 2560 from my crashed subaru lying around so I went with my "version 2" begi/fm tubular replacement mani in stainless flavor. The turbo was in my scrap metal bucket but my dad was able to torch the turbine off the center section (rusted solid and a few broken bolts in it) and remove the rust that was jammed between the turbine wheel and the CHRA. Full 3" bellmouth downpipe. sorta boring but it gets the job done and gives me lots more low end torque than the old twins (quicker spool), and of course it's much easier and quicker to remove when I decide to make more. Exhaust is much louder especially under WOT. Kinda sounds badass at WOT but a little too loud on the highway cruising. I'm getting old I guess.
I didn't take a pic of the downpipe but you all know what that looks like already. I forgot to put an EGT bung in my manifold, maybe when it comes back out after the summer. I reused my ancient starion intercooler to TB pipe which already had a 2 to 2.5" SS transition welded to a 90deg pipe. cut it to the right angle and poof, free turbo-to-existing intercooler pipe. I have t-bolt clamps but they are a PITA. worm clamps work for me. As does standard ARP 5/16 hardware. Being able to get a 3/8 box end wrench on the turbo to manifold bolts makes me happy.
Holding my car at 2000rpm in second gear driving around my block to grind off the brake dust on the rotors, I make 5psi. I'll do some datalogs soon to get some real data. I'll get some videos soon too, maybe this weekend. I have some old T1R's that need to go up in smoke as the replacement tires have been sitting at my dad's shop for a month and he wants them outta there.
4 pics below. If they don't show, hit refresh or F5 please.
Discoloration is after 2 days/~200 miles of highway driving, maybe 6 WOT pulls to try to dial in my EBC. I have scrap piping to put the air filter up by the brake master cylinder but ran out of desire the other night. I'll get to it eventually maybe.
Website with other photos, these are at the bottom:
http://absurdflow.com/begireplacementver2.html
I didn't take a pic of the downpipe but you all know what that looks like already. I forgot to put an EGT bung in my manifold, maybe when it comes back out after the summer. I reused my ancient starion intercooler to TB pipe which already had a 2 to 2.5" SS transition welded to a 90deg pipe. cut it to the right angle and poof, free turbo-to-existing intercooler pipe. I have t-bolt clamps but they are a PITA. worm clamps work for me. As does standard ARP 5/16 hardware. Being able to get a 3/8 box end wrench on the turbo to manifold bolts makes me happy.
Holding my car at 2000rpm in second gear driving around my block to grind off the brake dust on the rotors, I make 5psi. I'll do some datalogs soon to get some real data. I'll get some videos soon too, maybe this weekend. I have some old T1R's that need to go up in smoke as the replacement tires have been sitting at my dad's shop for a month and he wants them outta there.
4 pics below. If they don't show, hit refresh or F5 please.
Discoloration is after 2 days/~200 miles of highway driving, maybe 6 WOT pulls to try to dial in my EBC. I have scrap piping to put the air filter up by the brake master cylinder but ran out of desire the other night. I'll get to it eventually maybe.
Website with other photos, these are at the bottom:
http://absurdflow.com/begireplacementver2.html
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07-08-2010, 09:12 PM
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Depends on the application. If you are tracking the car on a road course at WOT like hustler and other men of stature, you should be using trackspeed's inconel hardware (or vbands depending on your HP target/turbo). Street/auto X setups I'd run standard 5/16-24 ARP hardware (black ox) if you can't afford the security of the trackspeed hardware. Actually the studs on this setup are 5/16-18 on one end because the T2 flange I used was pretapped. Fine pitch on the turbo side so you can use 12point nuts. I used hardware from work that I cut down with a cutoff wheel, but on Saintfoo's I used a standard arp part number pack of 4 carburetor studs.
If you are between a full out track car and a street car then run whatever the internet tells you that will make you feel comfy. I'd run the 5/16 stuff on the track to see if the "in direct gas flow" is a large part of the problem of the cast manifolds and because it's easy to drill them larger to go with the 10mm trackspeed stuff or thru bolt it. Again, if you don't want to worry about it at all then inconel all the way.
I think this post is long enough as a really simple one sentence answer could work. WhoTF cares about labron james?! REally an entire hour special?
If you are between a full out track car and a street car then run whatever the internet tells you that will make you feel comfy. I'd run the 5/16 stuff on the track to see if the "in direct gas flow" is a large part of the problem of the cast manifolds and because it's easy to drill them larger to go with the 10mm trackspeed stuff or thru bolt it. Again, if you don't want to worry about it at all then inconel all the way.
I think this post is long enough as a really simple one sentence answer could work. WhoTF cares about labron james?! REally an entire hour special?
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