No oil pressure after turbo install
04-13-2014, 12:12 AM
#21
The problem comes when you go to reinstall the oil baffle, pick up, and pan. Take an engine out and pull the pan and it will sit there and drip oil on the ground for weeks.
Pan install requires the following:
1. RTV around the entire border
2. install rubber half seals on either end
3. place baffle in place
4. bolt up pickup tube with gasket to oil pump, and tighten to baffle
5. RTV both sides of baffle
6. RTV tops of rubber seals
7. place pan and tighten up
Now think about doing this while upside down. You need to keep all surfaces clean. I prefer to use alcohol to clean them, binds to the RTV better. On top of that, you need to hold the two seals, baffle, and pick up in place as you bolt the pan on.
Now, imagine throwing it on a stand, flipping it upside down, and doing the same. Much MUCH easier.
Pan install requires the following:
1. RTV around the entire border
2. install rubber half seals on either end
3. place baffle in place
4. bolt up pickup tube with gasket to oil pump, and tighten to baffle
5. RTV both sides of baffle
6. RTV tops of rubber seals
7. place pan and tighten up
Now think about doing this while upside down. You need to keep all surfaces clean. I prefer to use alcohol to clean them, binds to the RTV better. On top of that, you need to hold the two seals, baffle, and pick up in place as you bolt the pan on.
Now, imagine throwing it on a stand, flipping it upside down, and doing the same. Much MUCH easier.
Three things/assumptions I was working with; maybe they are not valid -
- Removing the engine with A/C on the car will be more difficult with the hard lines and compressor
- I can leave the windage tray in place with its sealant
- The car hasn't had oil circulating since October, so the engine should be fairly clean
Those gave me the impression I should be successful in this task.
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04-13-2014, 07:47 AM
#22
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Detroit
Posts: 1,524
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Long ago, before I installed my begi kit, I wanted to refresh the engine with new rings/bearings a light hone and new head gasket. I did it the way your attempting, and while it is most definitely doable, it was a much more difficult than pulling the engine/trans as one unit and throwing it on a bench for dis-assembly.
You spend a lot of time laying on your back fighting with bolts and jack stands trying to get the proper clearance to sneak the pan out. Then trying to get all the surfaces clean and dry while wrestling an rtv'd pan back into place and trying to keep the half moon pan gaskets seated correctly while trying to install all the pan bolts and tighten/torque them in the proper sequence was a serious pain in the ***. Not to mention the possibility of not discovering a leak until its all back together again and running.
If you have access to a car hoist and an engine support bar then it might be a better option, but you probably don't.
Pulling the engine may require an evac of the a/c and partial draining of the cooling system but lowering the cradle requires dis connecting the upper strut mounts, sway bar, steering shaft and a whole list of other things I can't quite remember atm.
Before you do anything I would remove the drain hose and fitting and try your best to shine a light in the pan and see if you can tell for sure the pickup is fubar'd.
Godspeed my friend
You spend a lot of time laying on your back fighting with bolts and jack stands trying to get the proper clearance to sneak the pan out. Then trying to get all the surfaces clean and dry while wrestling an rtv'd pan back into place and trying to keep the half moon pan gaskets seated correctly while trying to install all the pan bolts and tighten/torque them in the proper sequence was a serious pain in the ***. Not to mention the possibility of not discovering a leak until its all back together again and running.
If you have access to a car hoist and an engine support bar then it might be a better option, but you probably don't.
Pulling the engine may require an evac of the a/c and partial draining of the cooling system but lowering the cradle requires dis connecting the upper strut mounts, sway bar, steering shaft and a whole list of other things I can't quite remember atm.
Before you do anything I would remove the drain hose and fitting and try your best to shine a light in the pan and see if you can tell for sure the pickup is fubar'd.
Godspeed my friend
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04-13-2014, 09:41 AM
#23
Cpt. Slow
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18 bolts for the subframe, but the engine is only 7, fuel lines, coolant lines, clutch line, and electrical. I think you're forgetting removing the transmission, which putting that thing back in while on your back is one of the hardest things I've done on a miata.
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04-13-2014, 04:02 PM
#24
Flounder, I've verified that the pickup is damaged; replacement is on order.
Curly, I was under the impression that the trans and engine are still held together by multiple bolts if the oil pan is removed, which is important regardless of how I fix my horrible mistake. Not the case?
Curly, I was under the impression that the trans and engine are still held together by multiple bolts if the oil pan is removed, which is important regardless of how I fix my horrible mistake. Not the case?
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04-13-2014, 04:09 PM
#25
Cpt. Slow
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Yes true, it's held together with 4 bolts on the block, and four bolts on the oil pan. Plus the starter. The tranny sitting there makes it that much more of a pain in the ***. Pull the engine.
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04-13-2014, 04:47 PM
#26
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You make it sound like pulling the engine and transmission together is the way to do a clutch swap... is that a viable method for doing a clutch on the Miata? I have a lift, but it has the hump between the towers making a transmission jack a pain in the *** to use.
Keith
Keith
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07-21-2014, 05:17 PM
#28
An update, 3 months later...
I replaced my oil pickup by dropping the subframe. I got a jack attachment for raising/lowering the subframe, engine support bar, and impact wrench from HF and went to work. Retaining A/C on the car was my main motivation for going this route, and also a Youtube video from Mr. MiataKing was a helpful guide. YMMV, but it worked for me.
It was not an easy job, but it went fairly smoothly. Primary hangups were a seized trans-oil pan bolt that sheared apart, possibly due to hydraulic fluid corrosion from a leaky slave cyl, and aligning everything when the subframe went back in, which would have been easier with a helper or two.
Couple thousand miles later, everything is going well. I have it running pretty well at 11PSI and a maximum IAT of 125F with water-methanol injection. I'm really enjoying the car; MUCH better top end than the good ol' M45.
Thanks all for your advice and keeping me on a successful path to getting this car up and running
I replaced my oil pickup by dropping the subframe. I got a jack attachment for raising/lowering the subframe, engine support bar, and impact wrench from HF and went to work. Retaining A/C on the car was my main motivation for going this route, and also a Youtube video from Mr. MiataKing was a helpful guide. YMMV, but it worked for me.
It was not an easy job, but it went fairly smoothly. Primary hangups were a seized trans-oil pan bolt that sheared apart, possibly due to hydraulic fluid corrosion from a leaky slave cyl, and aligning everything when the subframe went back in, which would have been easier with a helper or two.
Couple thousand miles later, everything is going well. I have it running pretty well at 11PSI and a maximum IAT of 125F with water-methanol injection. I'm really enjoying the car; MUCH better top end than the good ol' M45.
Thanks all for your advice and keeping me on a successful path to getting this car up and running
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