Lazy/cheap thrown together 1.6 turbo setup
12-30-2012, 01:03 AM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Venice, FL
Posts: 173
Total Cats: 9
Lazy/cheap thrown together 1.6 turbo setup
Hey guys...so I've been suckered into buying stuff I dont need. I've had the Miata for almost 7 years now and havent done any real power mods because of the stock diff etc.
Friend of mine pretty much gave me an F20C (S2000 AP1 engine) complete with brand new clutch, flywheel, and bearings, as well as transmission, ECU, and wiring harness, all for an unreasonably cheap price. I'm working on getting my 88 Supra back on the road though, so any money spent on my NA is just more time my actual project car is not on the road. As such, the above and V8R subframe and Getrag diff kit will have to wait until the 88 runs well enough to DD.
Well another friend offloaded some turbo parts on me in the mean time. I know better, but this car is painfully slow, especially in the summer. So here's what I picked up tonight:
This is my DD still, so as much as I'd like a sweet MSPnP setup and to "do it right the first time," I'd rather not put too much time and effort into it, especially since I only plan on having this drivetrain in here for another year.
So far, the plan is to cut the manifold flange, route the wastegate port instead of having it blocked off (who's idea was that??), get the SRT4 intercooler to fit (hoping the weird endtank wont give me too much trouble), grab some piping from ebay, reuse my Type S BOV from the Supra, the AEM UEGO I bought for it (going to use Failsafe or something else instead for the Supra) and figure out what the hell combination of these MX6/Probe turbo injectors and RX7 MAF I need to make sure I have at least enough fuel. The extra intercooler and spark plugs were just because he didnt want them anymore lol.
So now I just need to do more research on exactly how I'm going to do this. Really not feeling the "tap the oil pan" logical route, but I also dont want to pull the engine just to drop the pan and tap it. As stupid as the "route the oil line to the other side of the engine" is, I might just end up doing it. Lines will end up being -AN most likely, since I'm buying new.
I know better than to beg for information, especially here, and especially with how often this has already been done, so this is mostly just a progress thread that is open to suggestions before I get too far into this. I also know that the tuning method is a bad idea, the Vortech FPR is a bad idea, the oil drain certainly is, and leaving the downpipe as it is without having somewhere for the wastegate gas to go is as well. Ultimately, I'm hoping running on wastegate pressure and no more will let me stay reliable. All I want is to break triple digit power at the wheels and have the turbo sounds I so very much miss.
Edit: On second thought, I might just keep an eye out for a megasquirt...
TL;DR: Lets see how inexpensive I can do this bad idea without ******* it all up...
Friend of mine pretty much gave me an F20C (S2000 AP1 engine) complete with brand new clutch, flywheel, and bearings, as well as transmission, ECU, and wiring harness, all for an unreasonably cheap price. I'm working on getting my 88 Supra back on the road though, so any money spent on my NA is just more time my actual project car is not on the road. As such, the above and V8R subframe and Getrag diff kit will have to wait until the 88 runs well enough to DD.
Well another friend offloaded some turbo parts on me in the mean time. I know better, but this car is painfully slow, especially in the summer. So here's what I picked up tonight:
This is my DD still, so as much as I'd like a sweet MSPnP setup and to "do it right the first time," I'd rather not put too much time and effort into it, especially since I only plan on having this drivetrain in here for another year.
So far, the plan is to cut the manifold flange, route the wastegate port instead of having it blocked off (who's idea was that??), get the SRT4 intercooler to fit (hoping the weird endtank wont give me too much trouble), grab some piping from ebay, reuse my Type S BOV from the Supra, the AEM UEGO I bought for it (going to use Failsafe or something else instead for the Supra) and figure out what the hell combination of these MX6/Probe turbo injectors and RX7 MAF I need to make sure I have at least enough fuel. The extra intercooler and spark plugs were just because he didnt want them anymore lol.
So now I just need to do more research on exactly how I'm going to do this. Really not feeling the "tap the oil pan" logical route, but I also dont want to pull the engine just to drop the pan and tap it. As stupid as the "route the oil line to the other side of the engine" is, I might just end up doing it. Lines will end up being -AN most likely, since I'm buying new.
I know better than to beg for information, especially here, and especially with how often this has already been done, so this is mostly just a progress thread that is open to suggestions before I get too far into this. I also know that the tuning method is a bad idea, the Vortech FPR is a bad idea, the oil drain certainly is, and leaving the downpipe as it is without having somewhere for the wastegate gas to go is as well. Ultimately, I'm hoping running on wastegate pressure and no more will let me stay reliable. All I want is to break triple digit power at the wheels and have the turbo sounds I so very much miss.
Edit: On second thought, I might just keep an eye out for a megasquirt...
TL;DR: Lets see how inexpensive I can do this bad idea without ******* it all up...
Last edited by Orion ZyGarian; 12-30-2012 at 01:23 AM.
Reply
0
0
12-30-2012, 05:32 PM
#5
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Venice, FL
Posts: 173
Total Cats: 9
Cant really tell in the pics, but theres only a pipe for the turbine outlet, and the flange just has the wastegate blocked off.
Because I'm too lazy to take a pic of it and already have this pic for reference, this is what it looks like (obviously a different car's downpipe):
I just think it's an awful idea. The piping is small enough as it is, and I imagine EGTs would suck. I'd even rather take a hole saw to it and have it vent than leave it as it is.
Appreciate the reading though, of course! Always wanted a Brain-built MSPnP too, just trying to figure out deep I'm falling into this money pit..
Because I'm too lazy to take a pic of it and already have this pic for reference, this is what it looks like (obviously a different car's downpipe):
I just think it's an awful idea. The piping is small enough as it is, and I imagine EGTs would suck. I'd even rather take a hole saw to it and have it vent than leave it as it is.
Appreciate the reading though, of course! Always wanted a Brain-built MSPnP too, just trying to figure out deep I'm falling into this money pit..
Reply
0
0
12-30-2012, 08:45 PM
#6
Cpt. Slow
iTrader: (25)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 14,179
Total Cats: 1,129
Oh, yeah, that's "stock" for the greddy kit. Nothing's been welded shut or anything.
Most people leave it, you'd have to hole saw it, and weld up a pipe to the rest of the downpipe. There's not much room for that in there.
Most people leave it, you'd have to hole saw it, and weld up a pipe to the rest of the downpipe. There's not much room for that in there.
Reply
0
0
12-31-2012, 04:08 PM
#7
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Venice, FL
Posts: 173
Total Cats: 9
Considering what is ahead of me with the engine swap and that I don't have any intercooler piping for it yet, I think it would be managable haha. I really don't like it, but if I can get away with it, maybe I'll leave it..
Reply
0
0
12-31-2012, 08:02 PM
#8
Cpt. Slow
iTrader: (25)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 14,179
Total Cats: 1,129
Yeah, I'm just saying it might be a bit of a hassle if you're just looking for an extra 30hp until you swap engines.
The greddy's a shitty design to begin with. Why polish ****.
The greddy's a shitty design to begin with. Why polish ****.
Reply
0
0
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
