LOOINEY

Still in one piece...

Little dirty and what all can i remove from the engine bay.

Before the snail is mounted

This is what the pistons looked like too.

Umm i think this needs replacing?

And this too...

So this is the post that i will keep up to date through the build with goals.

Stock 1.6 internals with new gaskets and bearings to push 200WHP with a sr20det t25 and all the parts from a greddy for now. Any help would be great.

cjernigan

iTrader: (13)

I would just get the flywheel resurfaced. Unless you want to upgrade to a 1.8 flywheel and clutch assembly.
In your case for 200 hp i would just use the 1.6 unit though and have it resurfaced for $30 or whatever your local shop charges. Then pick up something like an ACT HD clutch. Unless you want to go for the ebay F1 clutch.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

I'm trying to figure out when pistons looked like exhaust valves....

LOOINEY

Yeah I decided that to resurface the flywheel and spend the 200 for the downpipe and exhaust material to fab.

Brianeack: You crack me up!. I was talking about all the carbon build up. It took over 8 hours to get the pistons and head somewhat clean.

magnamx-5

iTrader: (7)

You could have done the cleaning in 5 minutes with some WI still it looks like a thorough build GL man

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

ok i gotcha now.

LOOINEY

I found that if you soak the parts in oil than toss them in an heated parts washer them come out pretty clean but most of the carbon had to be scratched off with a pick. I have updated pictures of the bottom end built but forgot the camara at school.

mazda/nissan

iTrader: (2)

you should knife-edge that crank, belfab does all 4-clyinder motors for 299


if you weren't keeping stock internals

LOOINEY

I was thinking about it but im rebuilding this motor at school for a grade and has to be done by end of december. So i didnt want to send out any parts and be stuck without them and get a bad grade. But no i know the inside and out of the b6 im planning on building another b6 with a bullitproof bottem end on it. Plus if anyone needs an engine built I have nothing to do this winter up here.

LOOINEY

Ok, Sorry it took this long to get the new pics posted I've been busy.


Here's the bottom end all back together at factory spec clerances and torque.

Is this right? I looked up where to tap like five times before drilling so i hope its right

Check out my welding skills..... JB Welding skills!

Pistons cleaned and new rings installed into the hoaned cylinders.

And here is a little somthing that I did in class when I was bord of looking at the mis-castings from factory.

Looks alot better than the first pics I posted.

kotomile

iTrader: (24)

Yes, the oil drain is right. I just did mine yesterday in that same spot:

https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/sh...ad.php?t=13658

slyfox03

looking good, ports look much better

Loki047

iTrader: (6)

how much for the build?

LOOINEY

Right now im at $500 and thats for
Head Gasket Set
Conversion Gasket Set
Main Bearings
Conecting Rod Bearings
Piston Rings
OEM Clutch
Flywheel Resurfaced
Paint
AN Oil Fittings

There was no machine work needed so Ive done all the work so far wich saves some money.

MD.Drift

What did you use to do the head? what kind of equipment? hand tools or bigger stuff?

Nice build btw. I just finished taking my engine apart.... again. It's fully built and was ready to go into the car and I decided to change a few things. so the oil pan came out... w/ a few problems.

neogenesis2004

iTrader: (12)

I use a beefy makita electric die grinder with toggle switch for ports, and a dremel for bowls and chamber work. The dremel is much slower, but with the little die grinder attachment you have much greater control.

MD.Drift

I was thinking of mounting the head on a bridgeport mill.... and see what happens... first I would do it on a spare 97 head and than do the 99 if it came out good. What do you think?

LOOINEY

I used a hand dremal (Black and Decker RTX) $25 at your local Walmart, with a stone grinding bit to take out the high spots and sharp edges then the sanding drum bit but i use a sand paper with a sticky back wraped around it starting at 180g the 220g. Then I took some maroon scotch bright and cut it into little squares and screwed them down on the cut off wheel mandrel, so when the center tightens down the edges lift up creating a ball shape bit and it seems to work nice. I only had to spend $15 on the three bits to do this. It was alot cheaper to use sand paper and scotchbrite than buying the dremal bits that are made with it on them.

And now some questions if anyone can answer them?
Are the HLA's sapose to be soft or hard when you try to push them in?
I soaked them in oil when they where out and try to get some to fill up buy pushing on them untill air stop coming out of the hole. Half of them soft and half are hard. I know some might be bad due to that it had bad ticking after long drives and cold starts before the tear down.

LOOINEY

And this is where it sit's untill i can buy the rest of the parts to install the turbo.

mxv

iTrader: (4)

you'll want to rough up the intake ports, you do not what them smooth, the fuel will bead on it and not evaporate very quickly.