samnavy

iTrader: (7)

Been thinking long and hard about this. I had intentionally wanted to recirc and still may after this little expiriment. I know that standard BOV's will leak a little while in vaccum and that this is a big problem with MAF cars as the unmetered air won't allow the car to idle properly or sometimes at all. So, you just can't run one of these VTA without a check-valve.
I also like the stealth aspect of recirc and I know that damn whoosh is going to annoy the crap out of me after the first thousand shifts. I bought a check valve from the plumbing isle at Lowes. It advertises as 3/4" but my 1" OD BOV slips right in after a little dremeling of the barb on the BOV and filing down the threads on the inside of the Check Valve.
Now I just need a recommendation on what to seal it with. The Check Valve is PVC... and I think the BOV is too. Would standard PVC sprinkler glue work? Some sort of epoxy? Superglue? It's a real tight fit. I was very gentle with the Dremel and took off very small amounts at a time. I pushed it on so hard I almost couldn't get it off... so the glue (or whatever) is just to seal it and add a little strength.

You can see in the pics my Dremeling.

m2cupcar

iTrader: (5)

Parts stores sell a two part epoxy specifically for plastic and it works incredbily well. That said, do you really want this permanent? If the check valve fails and bov is still good, that's gonna suck.

UofACATS

iTrader: (1)

(2nd pic) Looks like there would be room to cut it off and still attach another valve, or recirculation pipe.

Sam: Is there a sort of spring in the valve? How does it work? Maybe a pic from the front?

Thanks.

olderguy

iTrader: (19)

Use PVC pipe glue/cement. Small cans at Lowes or Home Depot.

neogenesis2004

iTrader: (12)

the purple and orange stuff

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

Epoxy or just clamp it together with a coupler.

There's also brass 3/4" check valves made completely of metal that the guts shouldn't blow out of. Be aware that it's happened to a few members, including myself.

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

I figured the standard PVC purple stuff would be fine. I'll try that. If it doesn't work out, yup, I'll still have enough left to attach a hose and recirc. It advertises that it will hold 150psi... not sure if it was designed to work with bursts of pressure or how it will hold up after a few under-hood heat cycles. I'm pretty sure it's a very light spring and and a rubber O-ring in there. I can open it with my lungs fairly easy, no real force needed to get it to open. I'll try it for a few weeks and see how she goes. It was only $8. And if I totally bugger it up, another BOV is only $30.

First pic is looking at the discharge.
Second pic shows the BOV side.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

what I'm talking about looks somewhat like this:
http://shijin-valve.en.alibaba.com/p...eck_Valve.html

can be had at lowes. I had the same plastic check valve and one day it dumped and then stalled out. The guts completely blew out. I upgraded to this $7 brass valve and I had no problems. Just saying...

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

I saw that one too. My first goal is to see if this one will work. Once I've proven that MY engine is one that doesn't mind VTA so much... then I can upgrade to brass if the plastic one ever fails. Thanks for the link.

jayc72

iTrader: (14)

I don't get it. You want stealth and don't want to hear the BOV. VTA on a AFM equiped car can be problematic. Even if you have the leak at idle sorted out you can still run into some awful drivablility problems.

Why do you want to VTA again?

UofACATS

iTrader: (1)

B, how did you attach it to the bov?

Thanks. I have to buy one tomorrow. You dudes are answering my questions before I ask

jayc72

iTrader: (14)

When I ran VTA I attached the brass check valve with a piece of 1" heater hose and a couple of clamps.

UofACATS

iTrader: (1)

Jay, I know you're not asking me, but for one it's easier. Recirculating with my setup can be done, and probably will end up being done. I'm giving it a shot this way anyhow. What the hell. See what happens, you know. Worst case I learn why, and then start working on the recirc pipe.

UofACATS

iTrader: (1)

DOH! Thanks for the idea. I'm over here thinking how can I find a small coupler when any decent hose will work. It's not like an I/C connection........

Thanks, Jay

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

WHY? I got to talking with some buds the other day and had a change of heart with the whole TURBO thing. I guess my **** isn't that big after all... I could always use a little ego boost w/every shift. And a little advertising to the ricer types might actually be healthy for me. I can't feel better about myself if nobody knows I've got a turbo.:gay: SO, VTA for a short period of time maybe... we'll see how it goes. If I don't like it, all I need to do is drill one more hole and screw in a fitting. But, I just found out I've gotta go to Sterling Wed and Thu so the final install will be this weekend. Yup, the fruits of my labor will finally be realized. This weekend and it's in... not done, but IN!

kotomile

iTrader: (24)

Hmm, can anyone confirm that in the posted pics the BOV would be in backwards or not?

I mounted mine like that and the car spit it from the intake (literally) until I switched it around and then it worked.. but "looked" backward.

RusMan

Let us know about the drivability with that setup.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

picture is correct.

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

You bet!!! I can't wait to get this thing installed. It's been four months now... so PISSED I'm gonna be gone Wed/Thurs or it'd be done. New projects today, but time for new thread. This weekend is gonna be fun!!!

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

I also posted this pic in another thread. This is how it's going to mount... now to make the final decision. I can mount it cold or hot side.... it would make it easier later on to recirc if it was hot side... but it's more out of the way and hidden on the cold side... what to do, what to do?