L4nthonyl

iTrader: (1)

Hello friends. I'm trying to mount my sr20 turbo onto the manifold but the turbo outlet is in the way. I'm trying not to clock (rotate) it. I am thinking about getting a t25 flange extender. Similar to the attached photo. Does anyone make those? I can't seem to find one.

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

Why on earth are you not just clocking the turbo?

L4nthonyl

iTrader: (1)

I was just wondering if a flange extender exist so I don't have to clock the turbo.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

So you aren't clocking the turbo, why?

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

You are trying to solve one problem, by adding a ton more. Even if you find that extender, or get someone to make it for you, there will still be problems with keep it all attached. You also then have the extra complexity of trying to route intercooler pipes from there.

What I think happened is that you went extremely cheap on the turbo. I am guessing this based on the amount of rust it is covered in. Because of this you cannot loosen the bolts to clock it.

RedCarmel

iTrader: (7)

If you dont clock, will your oil supply and drain lines be oriented correctly? I can't tell from your photo but when I got my SR20 turbo I needed to clock it not only for intercooler routing but also so the turbo would be properly lubed and cooled.

I guess you could maybe grind down the triangle flange and that might get you clearance but really it just needs to be clocked.

240_to_miata

iTrader: (2)

Search my old posts or posts of the dozens of other members that clocked the SR20 T25 and ran it successfully on the FM manifold.

Don't reinvent the wheel here...

L4nthonyl

iTrader: (1)

Wasn't thinking looking for lazy route. Extender/adapter equals more chance of leaks. Spraying pb blaster soon. Turbo was from friends car ran perfect. He just upgraded I'm going to clean it before I put everything on. Looking for injectors(450cc) atm please email if anyone is selling a set l4nthonyl@yahoo.com

L4nthonyl

iTrader: (1)

I will definitely clock the turbo soon. I just realized that if leave it the way it sits oil return will face parallel to the ground. Thanks all!

connor

I did the same thing last week. I soaked it in PB Blaster for like 2 days and that really didn't help at all. It was fused together pretty good. I ended up taking it to a local turbo shop and they just smacked it a few times with a brass hammer.

Leach0789

I'm also doing an sr20 t25 build. You will need to clock it for the oil drain to be facing down correctly. You will also need to find a way to mount the wastegate after you clock it.

The t25 that I originally had couldn't be clocked after 2 hours of labor at the shop. It was very fused together. So I just went and bought a freshly rebuilt one instead.

thirdgen

iTrader: (26)

There's no such thing as "very fused together" at my shop. Still have that turbo and want to part with it?

L4nthonyl

iTrader: (1)

I clocked it last week. I sprayed PB blaster and left it for two days and I used a breaker bar to crack the bolts loose. Now I am just waiting for my rebuild kit to come in.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Have oxyacetylene, will torch for turbos.

curly

iTrader: (25)

My mini bottle jacks worked amazingly, Just a bolt and a flanged nut. They provided more leverage than any amount of hammering or prying.

carbon

iTrader: (1)

How much are you guys paying for your sr20 turbo? Also, does anyone go with the t28? or the t25 from an s13?

L4nthonyl

iTrader: (1)

I got mine for free. You can find t25 for around 100-250 t28 300-500 on zilvia.net or Craigslist just know what you are looking for.

curly

iTrader: (25)

Got mine for $75 with a broken stud on the DP flange, which was another $65 I think in machine work, plus $90 in a gopopshop.com rebuild kit. So all said and done it was $230 for a rebuild unit.

The T28 is definitely the better unit, but as stated above it's much harder to find and more expensive.

Seefo

iTrader: (5)

pics please.

Leach0789

It had a lot of shaft play. Unless you're planning on rebuilding it, you don't want it.