VesBraun

Hey guys, second post.

Been out and away for awhile but have rethought my build and really looked at what I was using the car for and what I wanted to improve upon. I dont have a set budget, however, this car only cost me $4k so I dont see myself spending 3-5k on a Turbo Kit from FM which doesn't include half of the stuff I would like to see done to my car. I will be doing almost ALL of the work.
This is all being done to a 2001 NB Miata. This car is a Daily/Street build. I have HP goals of 250-270 so I can smoke STOCK muscle. (Mustang, Charger, Challenger, Camero, etc)

Install an 8 point roll bar (safety is priority)
Racing seats and harness (need help selecting the best seat and harness.)
removing all of the emissions equipment (Texas doesn't do emissions testing)
taking apart the stock air box and moving it to the driver side corner
M-Tuned Re-Route
MegaSquirt & Wideband O2 Sensor

Then getting into harder stuff:
(this is where I need advice and guidance)
REMOVE ENGINE (I'm using an engine stand so work can be done quicker and easier) I have another car for daily purposes.
A/C Delete
Engine mounts
Drill the oil pan (put a plug on it for now since I don't have turbo installed yet)
Lightweight Flywheel and Racing Clutch
Put the engine back in,
Coilovers and stiffer sway bars
Find a TORSEN LSD + Axles and such
Re-Do the Diff bushings to make them stiffer
Bigger injectors, Spark plugs and wires.
fuel pressure regulator (so when I get around to boost, it has enough fuel)
AND FINALLY: nice rims and tires (haven't decided, I need more input)
Catback exhaust

adryargument

iTrader: (1)

If you don't want to put money into it.
180-220hp.

Unless your above statement means you can forge your own pistons.

ryansmoneypit

iTrader: (6)

Your list doesn't include any turbo parts, or a computer.

You need to establish at least a ballpark budget.

gfeeley

With your misunderstanding of what is takes to turbo I'd suggest using the handy search bar and read read read. There is no such thing as a trans mount on a miata. If you plan on getting bigger injectors you don't need a new fpr. Engine bracket? Idk what that is I assume you mean engine mounts but you already listed them. Spark plugs and wire...280 hp you need cops. Also at 280 you need a 6 speed, you know while the engine is out. You said 4k for the car well for what you have listed your gonna spend ~4-5k plus turbo stuff.

Tldnr:figure out how much loot you got to drop

18psi

iTrader: (76)

step 1 is actually learning a thing or two about these cars so you don't sound like such a completely clueless moron

VesBraun

I do plan on doing forged pistons and rods, stiffer springs as well, but at a later date. for now I'd like a "bolt-on" kind of build, then get more and more intricate as I find the limits of the car.

and a budget of 5k... hopefully I have most of it left for when I start getting turbo material.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

Better report this post too, cause I still think it's completely clueless and moronic
or
Actually start learning about miata's by reading, instead of posting. No one cares about your hopes and dreams until you actually start doing something. We get 10+ noobs in here every day who show us their "list".

PS: you forgot the blinker fluid and exhaust bearings

Schuyler

iTrader: (1)

$3k for 250-270whp isn't happening if you want to do it for more than a week. Building a motor has a lot more $ to it than just buying rods/pistons and chucking them in.

I've never heard of an 8point roll bar. Most are 4.

There is absolutely no reason to keep the stock airbox, much less do some complicated and pointless reroute with it.

You don't need a "racing clutch" (read: puck) for <300whp. Get the FM Stage 2.

The catfront is required, the catback is not. So if you're planning on doing a catback exhaust, you're planning to replace the entire exhaust. From the engine to the tip.

4gordeev

You should add another choice to the poll. "No"