TheMcCoy14

iTrader: (1)

I just clocked my new turbo and the c-clip/snap ring that holds the intake side to the back of the housing seems to be seated but the orientation can still be moved with a little bit of pressure. Is it normal for brand new turbos to be really easy to clock until they heat up for the first time? I am just terrified of putting it on and getting into boost to see it come apart and destroy the wheel... I'm sure my terminology is wrong but I hope you all get what I'm trying to say. Thanks.
Ben

curly

iTrader: (25)

It will be easier once it's been turned recently, but it should still take a bit of effort to do so. Wiggle it back and forth while you or someone else taps on the snap ring, just to make sure it's set properly.

TheMcCoy14

iTrader: (1)

Thanks.

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

Dude also loctite those c clamp bolts. I used resbond.

TheMcCoy14

iTrader: (1)

Noted. Also, there is barely enough room to fit a small flathead screwdriver behind the snap ring on the compressor side. Normal?

TheMcCoy14

iTrader: (1)

got the turbo in and as soon as I started the car the rear oil seal blew out. I've never seen a turbo purge oil like this one is. There is a pool of oil behind my car right now...

TheMcCoy14

iTrader: (1)

This is absolute bull. That's what I get for going with cxracing... I primed the turbo with oil and then started the car resulting in oil shooting out my exhaust 5 feet in some spots...

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

No, not normal. There should be a high-temp O-ring on the intake side of the center section. Pushing the intake housing on should compress this O-ring. Once the C-clip is in, it should be very difficult to move the intake housing. The C-clip should be held tight by the O-ring attempting to decompress against the intake housing. Something is wrong with your assembly. Don't run the car until you figure it out.

TheMcCoy14

iTrader: (1)

I got the c clip thing resolved yesterday. It snapped into place properly with the help of my room mate and everything was fine until I started the car. No unusual noises and there is no damage to any of the blades on either side and no movement of any kind of either housing. I have sent an email to the seller I bought it from and hopefully they'll let me swap it out for another unit. This just sucks especially hard being that this is my daily and I had to call into work today being that I'm not into smoke screening fools all the way to work...

TheMcCoy14

iTrader: (1)

Just to end this CXRacing did well by me and are sending me a replacement turbo. They said they've never seen a turbo do what it did when I installed mine. Hopefully the next one will actually work. They are forgiven ha.

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

Good luck... waiting for good news and power.

TheMcCoy14

iTrader: (1)

Got the new turbo that replaced my new turbo in yesterday and there is the possibility that it's still leaking oil... Although the smoke may just be from my muffler that's completely full of oil; OR my intercooler that's completely full of oil; OR both...

lazyguy

iTrader: (1)

Too much oil pressure to turbo?

TheMcCoy14

iTrader: (1)

Return line is not clogged first off. That's the only thing I can think. If this one really is bad it went bad as soon as I started the motor because smoke levels stayed consistent. I can't imagine that the lil' 1.6 could put out enough oil pressure to ruin two brand new turbos immediately...

TheMcCoy14

iTrader: (1)

Haven't driven it yet though. I'm going to do some serious work if this crazy Missouri weather clears up tomorrow afternoon. 70 degrees five days ago. Snow last night and this morning...

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

What he meant was that some turbos need a restrictor in the oil feed line to drop the oil pressure to the center section. What kind of turbo is this? BB or journal bearing?

Recommend you search "restrictor" to read up on it.

TheMcCoy14

iTrader: (1)

I had heard about this but my previous setups have been fine without a restrictor till now. It's a 16g journal bearing tdo5h dsm turbo. No flaming plz...

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

Generally, you don't want to use a restrictor on a journal bearing turbo because the bearings are lubricated and cooled by the engine oil. Ball bearing turbos are usually cooled by engine coolant.

Sorry, not much help.

Vashthestampede

iTrader: (17)

If you spewed that much oil from the first turbo, I'd imagine there's still quite a bit in the dp>exhaust and maybe that's why the 2nd one is still smoking.

Have you checked the oil feed & drain lines off the turbo? I checked mine once and the amount of oil that comes from the feed line with just a bump of the starter is about half a soup can. I'm still not sure how I feel on the topic of restrictors. Everyone has a different opinion on them and I've heard so many variations of reasons why to run or not run one.

If you think there's any oil in the IC or pipes I'd suggest taking the time to pull everything and hose it out.

My Garrett started smoking quite a bit and I don't know if its due to not having a restrictor or if it was just time for a rebuild. I'm currently waiting to hear back from Gpopshop to see what they have to say about it. While I have their ear I'll ask them what they have to say about restrictors and probably take their advice on the matter.

TheMcCoy14

iTrader: (1)

Thanks. I replaced my ricer muffler with a nice tip today and there was a lot of oil in the muffler. I probably lost about a quart from the last turbo failing. I drove the car to work today and as soon as it heated up it was smoking badly. It gets worse if I give it gas. The thing is that neither of the turbos made/make boost... I'm stomping on the gas and there is no boost building... the car runs fine otherwise. Going to contact the seller tomorrow and ask them to send me a rebuild kit. I want to get into the last one they sent me and see if there was something wrong besides the oil seals. If there is too much oil pressure could the bearings fail? That's my only idea as to why the turbo isn't making boost. Should I have broken it in somehow? At a loss...