Just go to RX7club.com, open an account, make a few postings and open a thread for a FM in the wanted sub-forum.
Not to hijack the thread, the reason the oil pump failed was because I had a aluminum damper which is a known fact that excessive vibrations at 15 psi of boost is not good at all, something I learned the hard way. The engine has not suffered detonation, I use sound amplifier which all this stuff I have already covered on this forum.
The device is ten times better than any knock sensor system in the market, best of all it costs less than 40 dollars to make one.
Check out on the article where he matches it against the best devices in the market.
Detonation detection tool
Such tool is amazing, you can check for bad wires, hear the transmission shifting, valvetrain, turbo spooling and best of all of course, for knock detection. I hook the alligator clip to the electric oil sensor.
Here is actually the one I built, compared to his, mine I just leave the clamp connected and route it through the firewall to the glove compartment with a headphone jack. When I want to use it is just plug and play.
Before I went with forged internals, I opened the engine running at 15 psi with the ghetto piggy back SAFC tuning and pressurized MAF, it had 3 bent rods, the pistons were in perfect condition. Only thing was a little scuffing but it was due to the slightly bent rods, which the only reason I opened the engine was for a failed oil pump. Before I went forged it had 10@1 Miata pistons (210 compression), I even removed 2 plys from the stock 4 ply metal headgasket and it never gave me any leaking or overheating problems. The rods failed because of the torque and amount of hp, the piston rings were fine, had a little bit of blow by, but c'mmon was boosting with three slightly bent rods.
The car at idle reads, 14 - 16 AFR, at cruising highway speed around 13 to 14, at 1 bar 11 to 12. You control the amount of fuel by adjusting the flap when removing the black plastic cap on the top. Grab a drill and remove the little metal cap so one can adjust idle. Follow adjustments with the throttle idle screw and with the AFPR, some tweaking with sparkplug gap, and then some with the ignition timing and you are done. My idle stays true at 700-800 rpms, and rides like a NA car while not spooling.
Forged internals, 84mm pistons, lightened sotck flywheel, clutchnet clutch with 4 pad disc, Ki cylinder head, custom turbo manifold, 550cc and afm from RX7 turbo II, walbro 255, adjustable cam gears, fmic, 2.5 exhaust piping with magnaflow muffler, NGK6 .040 gap with 93 octane gas, ARP head studs, fyi - ebay chinacharger w/ restrictor.
Like it is right now I have matched it against a STi with fmic, exhaust etc and won by 2 cars, EVos are cake, a few Mustangs, G35 and 2011 BMW 335i.
In fact it is even better to have the MAF after boost because it taking real readings of the air coming into the engine, not like when having it before the turbo it reads the air or whatever, but the air coming in is totally different from the one registered by the MAF.
Did not mean to hijack, but trust me it can be done without any MS, and by the way I have read a fair share of blown engines who claim a good tune with MS, and that is from clubprotege, mx3 and here at miata which everyone knows the BP is the shared platform across all three vehicles.