blloyd29

Hello everyone! I'm very excited to join this community. I've read tons of articles here before but have never joined. I look forward to getting acquinted with everyone.

Here is my dilemma: what year of Miata to start with? (heard it a million times right?)

I thought I was set on a 1994, until I saw this:
250HP + on a 1.6 with a seemingly basic setup?
https://www.miataturbo.net/dynos-timesheets-21/godspeed-gt28-chinacharger-turbo-1990-miata-stock-1-8-a-54820/

There are 1990-1994 Miatas all over my area for under $4,000.

I have been disecting information about turbo Miatas for a few years now and am ready to make the jump. My 12A powered Toyota Starlet project has taken too long to complete and I need something fun in the mean time. Anyone want to buy it? Complete 1981 Starlet and 1984 RX7.

I have $5,000 to spend, I can go higher for the right car. I would like to grab a car for $2,500 and put another $2,500 into it.

I would like to dd the car sometimes in the summer, reliability is important even though this won't be my everyday car.
I'd like to push 220 HP, the more the merrier for the money!

Am I limiting my options too much by settling for only a 1994?

Or am I fine with a 1990-1993? There even seems to be more parts and options for a 1990-1993.

I periodically do track days and autoX in my S4 but am tired of eating tires and worried about a $5,000 repair bill when the motor goes. We just got a new kart track so I may be trading my track days in the car to track days in a new kart.

UPDATED:
Here's what I'm thinking:
-tbd turbo kit for $1200 range
-Manifold $200
-MegaSquirt PnP $600
-RX7 550cc Injectors (already have some)
-255 fuel pump $75

Suspension and wheels can wait, I need it to be fun first, and I am excited to build up a car. My dd is a 300 HP S4, so a stock Miata isn't going to cut is, no matter how much I love their handling.

This is tempting to grab up and start fresh:
http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/2400791586.html

What do you experts think?

18psi

iTrader: (76)

He makes great power for the mods, but keep in mind not all/many setups like that perform that good.

also, 99% of the forum will agree with me that 1.8>1.6

aaronc7

iTrader: (8)

94+

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

Buy a 94 and then buy my manifold and DP and other random Begi **** I have for sale. Stay away from ebay manifold and downpipes.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

@ bolded

Also

More like throw away the kit and keep the turbo off it.

Also

You're missing like 60% of all the things needed for a proper turbo setup and track setup. If not more.

You are dreaming.
Search moar.

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

That car has a '97 1.8 motor in it... it's listed in the setup.

I'll dissect the rest of your thought process when I get back from wife's birthday dinner if somebody hasn't gotten to it already.

And fill out your location in your profile... I'll assume Seattle, and there are a few locals up there who can keep their eye out for you.

viperormiata

iTrader: (24)

Don't skip out on a nice 89-93 because of the 1.6, it's just as capable as a 1.8

and better <---FACT

Don't look for anything on eBay. The classifieds on this board are usually full with reliable parts that you can snag for great prices.

Definitely read every sticky and FAQ on here.

blloyd29

No where in my post did I say that I was expecting a track ready car after those parts. I mentioned having some money left over to do more things over time. I don't see the point in posting if all you are going to do is bash my post. I came on here for advice, I appreciate the dedication to Miata's on here an am an avid fan and am going to purchase one in the very near future.
I can do the work myself and I have the money, I'm not a 16 year old kid wasting everyones time. Do I know everything about this subject? Absolutely not, that's why I'm here.
Post your favorite link, point me in the right direction, there's a lot of crap on the internet to search through and a lot of it is garbage.

blloyd29

I've never done any major tuning that required new fuel management and ECU work other than a chip on my S4, that is why I shy away from going to a OBD-II car. Am I overthinking this? Are they really that much harder to tune?

18psi

iTrader: (76)

start with the diy faq.
then move on to the stickied threads and important saved threads.
then read through the build thread section and focus on the track crew cars.
You'll see why I laughed at your "ideas" real quick.

If you plan on any type of auto-x/track racing your 2500 is simply not going to cut it unless you stick with n/a and near stock power. ebay kit is 90% garbage so that's out too. Also there is a TON of stuff in your proposed list that you're missing. All that random and insignificant **** will add up in money, time, etc.


Sit back, grab a cold one, and start reading. You'll thank me later

PS: nothing wrong with obd2 besides emissions regulations in your state/city. if they're not strict there's nothing wrong with going obd2.

viperormiata

iTrader: (24)

Don't mind him, he just sold his car and his panties are still in a bunch.

Definitely look over the stickies and FAQ's, also DO NOT COP AN ATTITUDE. That will get you know where. For ****'s sake, or logo is a cat being shredded by compressor blades.

Pucker that ******* and thicken your skin. It's worth it. There is more information here than you'll ever need.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

I gave him the best advice bitch. if he has any brains he'll thank me one day

viperormiata

iTrader: (24)

Don't worry, baby. Come over later, I have pizza and a copy of Space Jam on VHS video cassette.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

awwww yeahhhhh

blloyd29

I have no emissions where I live, so that is irrelevant.

To the other posts:
No worries, I can handle it, I won't cry about it. There is TONS and tons and tons of information on this site and it's easy to get looped around. I've been reading the DIY FAQ and that is the best advice yet. I will update my post as I get further and work towards a respectable build.

I've modded several cars but the farthest I've ever gone is full suspension/brakes with a little bit of motor stuff like Intake/exhaust/chip/intercooler/BOV, nothing that needed a massive overhaul like this.

soviet

iTrader: (10)

My only concern for buying another miata would be straight body, no rust and good paint. Oh and good color.
You'll still be ripping out half the drivetrain to do it "right" with pretty much any year.

falcon

iTrader: (13)

If you can find a minty 89-90... do it. Lighter, chassis felt way more stiff (compared to my current 96) and lighter...

blloyd29

what about this?
the car is being sold cheap because he cannot get it licensed in canada, I only live a few hours away and licensing it here would be easy. Seems like a great deal.
http://vancouver.en.craigslist.ca/va...391609681.html

baron340

iTrader: (5)

My best advice says to be very patient and sit on your cash and wait for the right car to come along that is already turbo. I have been kicking myself ever since I bought and built my car because I could've bought a couple sweet cars off of this forum for the money I have in mine. There have been probably half a dozen absolute killer deals on well built cars in the past 6 months to a year. Avoiding the junk is important, but if you wait for the right car, and have a good knowledge of turbo cars before hand, you can pick up something great for a fraction of the build price.

mazpr

iTrader: (1)

Try to stick to a platform that you can get parts when things start braking.

I agree with 94+ and I think it is up to 97 or so when the platform was changed.

1.8, can get tons of parts from the Mazda Protege, MX-3 and yes... from the Kia and the infamous Escort GT.

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