mazda/nissan

iTrader: (2)

I was putting my turbo and downpipe on the car to see how long the drain needs to be and also how i need to route the pipe



i think i may need to trim my shelf though the downpipe is kind of close, it isn't touching but any flex in the motor will definitely rub



anyone have any banjo fittings 12x1.5 to 4AN for less than 40 quid?

when i first installed it i realized that clocking only the exhaust housing would not make the actuator fit so i had to take the dremel tool to the intake housing as well

mazda/nissan

iTrader: (2)

also how much will the hardlines on the master take before breaking? as you can see in the first image it is nearly touching the turbo

Bryce

iTrader: (24)

I had to bend (Or more like twist) the vertical hardline so that instead of it coming down on the drivers side, it came down towards the front of the car. That's just a testament to the malleability of the line.

I'm in love with your exhaust manifold.

mazda/nissan

iTrader: (2)

MEGAN FTMFW

i guess i should give you guys a parts list:
*Megan racing manifold and downpipe (which i might add fits snugger to the car than the stock exhaust did)
*16g
lol thats all that is currently on the car, tomorrow i have some aluminum to create a heatshield and some steel stock to fab up a brace, but i do believe 16 gauge steel is a little much for my poor press brake. Nice to know i can bend the hard lines a decent amount, they need to go at least an inch towards the drivers fender

magnamx-5

iTrader: (7)

The brake lines can be bent just be carefull not to kink them a gentle persuasion out of the way and then some asbestor wrap will keep you nice and safe. I replyed to your PM btw. GL FWIW my DP had to be adjusted on the output as it came out to low in relation to the rest of my exhaust system you will see when you get it in there. I don't think my DP rubs on the shelf it might be some weak motor mounts you have there.

urgaynknowit

iTrader: (5)

ur wastegate is very blue
and i assume ur not going to clock the turbo any more
and will run an L shape from the turbo in the charge side

more pictures!!!!!!!!!!!

mazda/nissan

iTrader: (2)

the wastegate is actually violet, the one with the turbo misteriously blew a diaphragm so the DSM boi off of ebay painted this one to match his car
the turbo can't be oreinted any other way, the actuator bolt holes won't line up, so it is going to be fun routing my intake pipes
i'm fabbing up the notorious megan racing manifold bracket and the heatshield tomorrow so i'll get you guys some more pics

cjernigan

iTrader: (13)

Clock the compressor any way you like. Modify the bracket, drill and tap the compressor housing to mount the actuator so it has a straight shot to the WG arm. Make the actuator adjustable. Considering you have time in between receiving parts on order you have more than enough time to complete this. Up to you though it might be easy to route the pipes the way it is now. The pictures don't do it justice.
Instead of using a flange on that turbo outlet you can grind the flange off and make it so you can just slip a coupler on it as well.

Saml01

iTrader: (9)

^ Do it once do it right. A little headache now will save you from having a big one later.

magnamx-5

iTrader: (7)

Chad that is a major Pita though wich is alot of why i didn't do it A modified Jpipe does quite well in comming forward to whereever you like Jhon GL

miataz

iTrader: (1)

What oil line fittings are you using/coolant w/e it is, i believe i am going the same route as you lmao i just want to know which ones you are going to use for your oil pickup and drain.

mazda/nissan

iTrader: (2)

i've got a 4 AN braided line that i am using for my feed and it has been a major PITA to find a fitting to the turbo until Richard somehow found the holy grail at summit after i've searched there For the coolant and drain that is the reason i have mocked up my system so i can see how long the lines need to be made, then i'll take it to a hydraulics place and have them make the lines with crimped ends. And cjernigan i think i will just make a custom flange/j-pipe because that is an awful lot of grinding

JOhn

miataz

iTrader: (1)

So its oil and water cooled?

mazda/nissan

iTrader: (2)

fo shizzle it uses water also, i'm debating running the water lines now or just running oil to get it up and running. In other news i'll have some pics of my POS heatshield up in a few hours

LOOINEY

Did you have to open the holes on the manifold to fit to you engine? because i just got back from dremaling the **** out of mine to make it fit.

mazda/nissan

iTrader: (2)

no i got pretty lucky on the fitment. I did have to go in and remove the bracket that holds on the heat shield to fit the downpipe. The bolts that hold the bracket on also hold on the transmission though so be sure to put those back on

mazda/nissan

iTrader: (2)

oh yeah i did have to trim the shelf, i'll get those pics up tonight

mazda/nissan

iTrader: (2)

my heatshield:




its not done yet, i'd like to build a divider down the front and back then rivet it on, i also need to find more attachment point to keep it sturdy

this is before i put the last bend on the heat shield



and this is where i notched the shelf, i think i may have to go back in and grind some more



should i bother bending this more or just make a new line?



it still just barely rubs the heatshield and i'm sure it will under acceleration

mazda/nissan

iTrader: (2)

fluid won't drain out if i remove the line will it? Shouldn't only a few drops fall out? I think i'm going to make a new line but don't want icky fluids (other than mine) on my shiny manifold

FHS

iTrader: (2)

Nice work.

Yeah, tabs to secure the back and side near the brake lines will keep it from rattling like a ****.