Frunza

Hi guys I am still working on my turbo rebuild and I am down to CHRA and I have a lot of rust inside of it.
I did some dremel work but there are some spots that I can’t get to.
If anybody has any ideas on how to get rid of the rust please help.
What should I do next in my rebuilt any tricks or advise?
I plan to paint the CHRA is this a good idea? What paint should I use or how can I keep the rust from coming back?
Thanks.

cjernigan

iTrader: (13)

The paint will just burn off. Sand blast the rust and rinse thoroughly. Only option for coating is plugging the ports and getting it ceramic coated.
I would wash it in some rust remover, something acidic, then oil it and call it good.

zoom2zoom

iTrader: (5)

Some rust is normal inside the coolant ports, nothing to worry about. If worried, use a coolant system cleaner once it is installed to clean out the entire cooling system, probably needs it anyway.

Frunza

The problem is not the coolant pases is the oil. Picture is taken inside of the oil drain I am not a expert but I am pretty sure that is not so good. I did some porting to match the drain but my dremel doesn't go far enough.
I don't have a sand blaster so what kind of acid should i use and what to do with the compressor wheel and the turbian looks like this

zoom2zoom

iTrader: (5)

If it's rusted in the oil section I would think more of not using it, unless you are doing a complete rebuild with new bearings and seals.

Frunza

Yes I am planing to buy a kit $75 its should have everything plus the guy will let me send my shaft and wheels for cleaning an balancing
Rust its only on surface i hope acid will be enough
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GARRE...mZ110307524368

zoom2zoom

iTrader: (5)

acid can eat things, be careful.

cjernigan

iTrader: (13)

Hmm. I really don't know what to use. What about something like these products but something local to you?
Rust Remover Comparison Chart
As long as there is no rust that can break loose and get in the oil passages of the bearings then I say clean it up as best as possible and call it good.

I also suggest buying your kit from gpopshop.com instead of ebay, I found their products and tech support to be worth any extra costs you might incurr compared to the ebay sellers selling kits.

thesnowboarder

iTrader: (15)

Might want to give CLR a try, a buddy of mine left rusty bolts in a cup of it overnight and they looked brand new after.

Frunza

Clr????

AlexO35

iTrader: (7)

Check this out. It's how I derust all my parts.

https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t23753/

--Alex

thesnowboarder

iTrader: (15)

http://images.buzzillions.com/images..._90126_raw.jpg

Frunza

Thanks for your input I have tomorrow off and I will try the new methods. Unfortunately I don't have a battery charger so I guess I am just down to CLR. I do have a small battery charger AA but I don't think that it is enough. What do you think?

Zabac

iTrader: (39)

Look for local shops to do your machining, there are a few around here that do great work.
Search.

thesnowboarder

iTrader: (15)

Soak the CHRA overnight in it, i bet it will look brand new after. Post pictures after please!

Edit:
Might as well throw the wheel and shaft in it too

Frunza

I got this today .After 3 hours lucking good 12 more and it will be perfect

thesnowboarder

iTrader: (15)

Nice!

Frunza

12 hours in EVAPO-RUST 1 hour in oven at 500 and some dremel work.
I do recommended Evapo-Rust
Befor

Skuce

Wow! that's impressive!