SilentNoise713

iTrader: (1)

I am a semi noob to turbos but I have the unreachable itch to boost my 1.6L.
I can get a Subaru TD05H 14B and Intercooler (guessing of WRX) for cheap but before I jump in, I wanted to check if anyone else has this setup. What else do you have with your kit and what kind of number are you seeing?

My biggest concern with DIY kits is the need to fabricate a manifold since I have no welding experience. Are there pre-made manifolds and DP on the market that will fit this turbo or will I have to get one made? Anyone know if this intercooler will work?

Currently I have a completely stock 1991 with exception of Bilsteins and will be looking for FM springs and JR sway bar before I install the kit.

Thanks.


EDIT: The 6" rear end is going to have to hold up for as long as it can... I'm not looking for crazy power, maybe 150-175 rwhp.

TwoScoopsofHooah

iTrader: (2)

If I remember right...the subaru turbo flange isn't a normal MHI flange dunno if it'll work?

steelrat

There's a local guy here with a custom ETD manifold that he's used (one for a 1.6, and one for a 1.8) with the WRX turbo. It works wonders with the miata motor.... spool is very linear.... <G>

He had an exhaust shop fab up a custom downpipe from the turbo.... and put together something for an IC.....

Dave,

UofACATS

iTrader: (1)

The best way to start a diy kit is to figure out the manifold/downpipe combo you want to run. Then get a turbo that fits.

The turbo may be cheap, but the custom fabbed mani and dp will more than make up the difference.
edit: although the above post makes it sound worth it..

The I/C is a top mount yes?

magnamx-5

iTrader: (7)

Ask adbradley he runs a turbo like that and i am sure he has tons of info on the such.

UofACATS

iTrader: (1)

An adapter plate will get whatever mani to work

SilentNoise713

iTrader: (1)

In the ideal situation, yes I should start with the Manifold and DP, then determine the turbo, BUT when the turbo and intercooler combo is available for $100 (used and unsure of condition so possible rebuild) , do you say STOP or GO?!

Yes, the I/C is top mount and I am guessing it may take more fabbing work then I am looking for to get this combo working…

SloS13

iTrader: (1)

dont think for a minute that the turbo and intercooler for $100 is the deal of the century or anything. It's a good price but not anything crazy like you might think. Why not buy the suby stuff, resell and get something that'll take less fabriaction?

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

Using that turbo presents the problems you've already highlighted. It's easy to use tried and true methods and go with a T3 or T25/T28. I'm all for you going a different route and seeing what can be done with a little creativity... but it's gonna be more work than you think... I think.

You can get a cheap $100 ebay FMIC that requires no fabrication or mods of any kind, just a piece of stock to mount it, and a nice used T3 or T25 out of any number of a dozen different OEM applications for about $150 in running condition.

I'm a big fan of T25's, so try SR20forum.com for used .80/.60 SR20det T25's, and here's a link to my personal favorite ebay FMIC and the picture of the mount I made for about $4.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/INTER...spagenameZWDVW

One of Begi's kick-*** DP's for T3/T2 is only $300. The manifold is going to be more expensive, but those pop up used a lot and there's always OBX.

mazda/nissan

iTrader: (2)

Sorry to jump off of topic here, but does that intercooler fit reasonably well? and how much of a pita was it to run the IC piping?

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

That IC is the easiest thing in the world to route. The ends of the tanks are exactly the same width as the stock radiator. Only the inlet/outlet stick out a little further... which means you stick a 90* coupler on the end and it points straght back.

My hot side IC piping is only one piece of 45* pipe bend. My cold side is also only one piece of 45* pipe bend. I cut it in half just after the bend, and used the remaining straight piece as my "up"-sections, to join the T-couper and the 90* enlarging bend at the TB.

mazda/nissan

iTrader: (2)

That does look pretty simple, you've never had problems with your silicone connectors blowing off?

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

Nope, I've pressure tested the whole works and use t-bolt clamps. Even when I was seeing 18psi, nothing ever went wrong. I don't have A/C or P/S which really helps with the hot-side routing... but cold-side is the same for everybody.