whisper

It was just an idea for him, how to better spend the time he devotes to figuring out what to do with that turbo.

discontinuuity

Thanks for all the advice everyone. I think my next step will be to get a Megasquirt ECU and get it running well without the turbo.

If I can get my $20 junkyard turbo to work without too much trouble I will. But if it requires a rebuild and all kinds of expensive or rare parts to make it compatible with my Miata, I'll ditch it and get a more tried-and-true Ebay turbo.

deezums

iTrader: (3)

You should buy a $200 ebay T3 and taco manifold, if you can't afford that $280 you can't afford to turbo a miata. It will spank the ever living taters out of that mustang turbo, and it'll actually fit proper.

Instead, you'd much rather use a piece of **** turbo, and well more than half the cost of good ebay turbo on adapter parts just to make the garbage fit.

There's a reason everyone who knows anything says don't build off a turbo.

Sparetire

IF it’s a standard T3 exhaust housing, the headaches are pretty minimal going to a different T3 footprint turbo. 'Oh ******* no. I have to change up my IC plumbing a bit, the Ebay unit has a different cold side. Plus I might have to clock something. My life is over.'

A lot of the reasons not to use a barn-find turbo don’t apply IF that turbo is actually applicable to your application and utilizes standard footprint parts. This is a turbo meant for a 2.3L engine with a horrible head and crappy compression ratio, being used now on a 1.8L engine with sort of shity head and slightly less crappy compression ratio. It runs a standard T3 hotside, meaning DP changes with a better unit will be minimal. So its in the ballpark of boost threshold and its either bolt-in or close to it with typical parts.

LOL at people who think modding a DP, clocking some ****, and improvising IC plumbing is some sort of major issue on a budget build.

ryansmoneypit

iTrader: (6)

I guess for some people who build nice things, modding a downpipe kind of is a big deal. Cut the old flange off, cut out and drill a new one, weld it on, fly cut it flat,5,6,7 hours to redo something that already was. I'm tired just from writing about the work involved.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

Actually, if you install the NC or ND motor, that turbo would mount up pretty nicely.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

that's a 45 trim t3 with a .48 A/R turbine. that's a great size for a ~200rwhp miata.

Sparetire

?

Or buy a flange off ATP (http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant...egory_Code=FLG) for 30 bucks that fits that turbine housing and has provisions for great WG flow, and make your highly effective DP. Not much different from doing this for a T25 based setup, you are just doing a separated gasses DP. Its like 2 whole additional welds and some drilling. If it does not work out, your changes to use that same DP with a more modern T3 hot side are pretty minimal. And you can dump WG to atmo and be obnoxious at the track if you wish.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

t3's dont have integrated wastegates, if you did that an EWG would be required...

ryansmoneypit

iTrader: (6)

I purchased one of those flanges. The one I got was plasma cut (or really bad laser) , and the holes lined up like poo. Let me know how yours turns out. Either way, you have been directed by some veterans on here (certainly not me) as to what you should do. Everyone will be paciently awaiting your success.

discontinuuity

Thanks for the info everyone. I'm not too worried about flanges, etc. since I work at a machine shop and I can make custom parts if necessary. Of course if I can buy it for relatively cheap I'd rather do that and spare myself the headache. I'm not much of a welder but I know a few people who could help me with a downpipe.

I'll probably buy a Megasquirt, wideband, injectors, etc. pretty soon, after I replace my alternator and fix a couple minor things. There seems to be plenty of info on this forum about Megasquirt, so I don't have too many questions yet.

I do have two questions about the junkyard turbo:

1. Is there an easy way to test the oil seals? Maybe pour oil into the lines and pump it up with air?

2. I'll have to take the turbine and compressor housings off to clock them properly. Will I have to rebuild the turbo? Should I rebuild it while I have it taken apart?