Thursday

iTrader: (2)

Soooo ive been slowly building my homebrew kit for a while and i got (what i think) was a pretty good deal on a turbo and a buncha other crap.

- 20g mitsu td-05 turbo

- OBX log type manifold? not 100% sure on that one

- capri valve cover

- ebay fmic

- adjustable fuel pressure regulator

- manual boost controller

- random intake filter

- ebay knock off greddy bov

- purple "jdm" tow hook lol


alllllll for 200 bucks...


i was mainly looking for the valve cover cuz it was mint but i figured id buy everything and he threw in a buncha extra crap.



so down to my main question, is that 20g turbo too big for my little old 1.6? its 100% stock now. my GOAL is around 180-200whp and full boost (8lbs) around 3k ish or should i count my losses and find a nice sr20 turbo and new manifold?

ive already purchased my managment (ms) and i have a set of rx-7 injectors ( i build rotary engines all day ).

thoughts? input?

dieselmiata

iTrader: (3)

I'd ditch the turbo for a T25 from an SR20. They're tried and true. If this is your first turbo Miata build, you want to be a lemming. You can "experiment" later on with off the wall parts, but for now follow what is well documented. I wouldn't recommend the OBX manifold either, but if needed you can run it until it cracks, which it will.

HUGE props for starting with MS.

Keep the intercooler.
Keep the valve cover for swagtytejdmyo.
Ditch the pressure regulator, you have an MS.
Keep the rest.

Except the tow hook. Unless you really want to have that jdmswaghella.

Full_Tilt_Boogie

iTrader: (1)

Pics of the manifold?

I wouldnt say its too big, although it certainly is unnecessarily large for the amount of power you can make on the stock bottom end, but it really depends on how fast you want it to spool. Big turbo cars are pretty fun on the street.

Thursday

iTrader: (2)

dont mind the other crap, its my spare parts room lol

Thursday

iTrader: (2)

also the guy i got it from said he had the turbo and manifold on his 1.6 for a while with no problems?

i really dont wanna hit full boost at **** 5k or something like that lol

Full_Tilt_Boogie

iTrader: (1)

Id probably run that turbo, but that manifold is going to crack at some point, so Im not sure its worth messing with. Id sell them together to some sucker.
Since youre using the 1.6 you can actually get a really cheap cast manifold on ebay. It has a T3 flange so you can get yourself a T3 super 60 chinacharger and youre off to a good start.

You get the car running on the MS already? If not you should do that before anything.

soviet

iTrader: (10)

Personally, I would resell all the parts except the FMIC and maybe the BOV.

Thursday

iTrader: (2)

word. will my manifold work with a sr20 charger? i would mind running a t3 but they all look like theyre externally gated

Full_Tilt_Boogie

iTrader: (1)

Nope, thats a weird flange, which is why you should just ditch both of them.
A manifold with a T25 or T3 flange will be better, its more common.

As for the T3, you may have to run one of these:


EDIT:
This is just my 2 cents, others may disagree. If I were in your situation, Id get this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/89-93-MAZDA-...7fde82&vxp=mtr
and this (or something similar):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CXRacing-T3-...f0cf24&vxp=mtr

fab up a downpipe, and ride out on the cheap.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

turbo too big for what you want
manifold is a worthless piece of junk
get rid of both and get a proper manifold that won't crack in a day and a proper turbo that won't take til 5k to spool

Thursday

iTrader: (2)

****** ay, id rock that t3 gated turbo and log mani. are those LESS prone to cracking?

locomonkeyboricua

So i bought ar 70 garette turbo miata with a blown motor. Kid said it made 270 whp at 15 psi. Its a 1.8 94. at what rpm would this turbo make 12 psi? i had a 91 turbo fm2 with gt25 and love the fast spool. I figure if the big turbo sucks ill go with a gt28. Is there anything positive on running big turbo on stock block?. Is the 20g about same spec as the 70ar.?

thenuge26

iTrader: (2)

Both of you should get the T3 50 trim mentioned. See Braineack's dyno for why.

And a toilet paper tube mani would be less prone to cracking than that OBX one.

Full_Tilt_Boogie

iTrader: (1)

Yeah they hold up pretty well. Its the one chinese manifold that works, and its only for the 1.6!
This is pretty much the "Braineak special", that manifold with a little T3 chinacharger, running MS. Its hella cheap and works well.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

the brain runs a fm/begi piece, not the china mani

but yeah that one is the only one that seems to work for the most part

Thursday

iTrader: (2)

It also looks like the t3 that you linked is only oil cooled ?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

and your problem with that is?

yeah, I run a BEGi directed flow cast manifold.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

Cool.

Somewhere between 2000rpms and redline.

Why not a 2560 if you love the fast spool?

Less rod-bending torque available at higher HP numbers. That's.... about it.

Is an apple about the same as a steak? I mean... they're both food, right?

Thursday

iTrader: (2)

No problem! Just all the other builds I've seen have all had water lines as well. Less stuff for me to plum I guess!!