Too intercool 4 school
#1
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Too intercool 4 school
I fitted the intercooler in my Miata today. The dimensions of the intercooler is (550x180x65 mm == 22x7x2.5 inches), it fits like a charm. The power steering fluid lines looks already bent out of the way.
I dont remember where i saw this particular way of installing it first, its not my patent, but to me it seems to be the easiest way.
What i did was to drill two holes and feed some treaded rod through the holes into the IC mountings and secure it with a washer and nut. After the piping is done I will do the same underneath through the splash guard.
Next I will do the IC-piping.
I dont remember where i saw this particular way of installing it first, its not my patent, but to me it seems to be the easiest way.
What i did was to drill two holes and feed some treaded rod through the holes into the IC mountings and secure it with a washer and nut. After the piping is done I will do the same underneath through the splash guard.
Next I will do the IC-piping.
#5
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I put the pipes in. The cold side was fairly straight forward. The hotside was more tricky but I ended up just jamming a 45' and 90' in between all the hoses. After securing all the joints with clamps, i took it for a drive and the intake air was as cold as ice. (0 degree C)
I will see how much the pipes rattles about, and consider securing them in potential problematic areas. But the plumbing seems fairly rigid.
I will see how much the pipes rattles about, and consider securing them in potential problematic areas. But the plumbing seems fairly rigid.
#15
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The hoses down there are already touching each other before i put the IC-pipe in. (dont know if relevant)
How hot will the IC-pipe get? according to ideal gas law my calculations say (constant volume): a doubling in pressure doubles the temperature (in units of Kelvin) so we are looking at about 300 degrees Celsius (3 times boiling point of water) at 14psi.
What are the heat resistant abilities of the hoses in the engine room?
The engine will move a bit when rev'ed i realize, but will not the hoses and IC-pipe move along with with it in the same direction? If my compressor outlet is pointing straight down, it should have about the same "arm" as the PS-unit.
Will not the hoses and silicon joints flex enough to absorb this movement?
How much movement is it in the sway bar relative to, say the radiator, during different driving conditions?
btw, thanks for all the input. I might be full of ****, feel free to prove me wrong.
#16
Irrelevant. Basic fundamental tribology dictates that your steel sway bar is going to eat through your tofu aluminum tube and send **** through the throttle body and you'll have a boost leak.
It doesn't matter how much the sway bar moves or the radiator moves. You're asking the wrong questions. How much do you think the engine moves to which a rigid tube is affixed? The vibration of the motor is going file that aluminum against the micro asperities on the sway bar. This doesn't even begin to take into account the torsion once the sway bar is actually in use.
I honestly think you should run it anyway. Just document your failures so others can learn what not to do. Some people learn best the hard way (myself included).
It doesn't matter how much the sway bar moves or the radiator moves. You're asking the wrong questions. How much do you think the engine moves to which a rigid tube is affixed? The vibration of the motor is going file that aluminum against the micro asperities on the sway bar. This doesn't even begin to take into account the torsion once the sway bar is actually in use.
I honestly think you should run it anyway. Just document your failures so others can learn what not to do. Some people learn best the hard way (myself included).
#18
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two thoughts:
plumb the outlet pipe on the far side of the sway bar, mounted right up against a heat source is ******* retarded. Plus there's no clearance and that's just stupid.
replace the lower radiator hose with a flex hose or molded silicone hose to get it out of the way.
plumb the outlet pipe on the far side of the sway bar, mounted right up against a heat source is ******* retarded. Plus there's no clearance and that's just stupid.
replace the lower radiator hose with a flex hose or molded silicone hose to get it out of the way.
#19
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Irrelevant. Basic fundamental tribology dictates that your steel sway bar is going to eat through your tofu aluminum tube and send **** through the throttle body and you'll have a boost leak.
It doesn't matter how much the sway bar moves or the radiator moves. You're asking the wrong questions. How much do you think the engine moves to which a rigid tube is affixed? The vibration of the motor is going file that aluminum against the micro asperities on the sway bar. This doesn't even begin to take into account the torsion once the sway bar is actually in use.
I honestly think you should run it anyway. Just document your failures so others can learn what not to do. Some people learn best the hard way (myself included).
It doesn't matter how much the sway bar moves or the radiator moves. You're asking the wrong questions. How much do you think the engine moves to which a rigid tube is affixed? The vibration of the motor is going file that aluminum against the micro asperities on the sway bar. This doesn't even begin to take into account the torsion once the sway bar is actually in use.
I honestly think you should run it anyway. Just document your failures so others can learn what not to do. Some people learn best the hard way (myself included).
two thoughts:
plumb the outlet pipe on the far side of the sway bar, mounted right up against a heat source is ******* retarded. Plus there's no clearance and that's just stupid.
replace the lower radiator hose with a flex hose or molded silicone hose to get it out of the way.
plumb the outlet pipe on the far side of the sway bar, mounted right up against a heat source is ******* retarded. Plus there's no clearance and that's just stupid.
replace the lower radiator hose with a flex hose or molded silicone hose to get it out of the way.
Cheers
#20
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So it's confirmed. My initial piping was touching and rubbing the sway bar on its way up on the cold side. I made a video recording from inside the engine bay!
And you can see and, more easily, hear the pipe rattling like a gipsy's tamburine.
I believe I fixed it though, by putting the pipe in a screw stick(?, see pic) and making a small bend in the pipe to allow for clearance to the sway bar.
I dont think the bend introduced will restrict air flow very much given the very small reduction in cross section area and the amounts of 90 degree bends in the pipe already.
Granted, the pipe is still close to the radiator. I will keep it like this until I mount the turbo charger. I'm interested to see the change in intake temps under final operating conditions.
Screw stick
Void
And you can see and, more easily, hear the pipe rattling like a gipsy's tamburine.
I believe I fixed it though, by putting the pipe in a screw stick(?, see pic) and making a small bend in the pipe to allow for clearance to the sway bar.
I dont think the bend introduced will restrict air flow very much given the very small reduction in cross section area and the amounts of 90 degree bends in the pipe already.
Granted, the pipe is still close to the radiator. I will keep it like this until I mount the turbo charger. I'm interested to see the change in intake temps under final operating conditions.
Screw stick
Void