Lawone

It only hissed once. Every time I have checked it's been fine. Will be refitting the fittings to make sure all is okay.


Funny man :P

It doesn't leak. But I am going to check it and change.




Update.

I've been advised by a few soruces to clock the chra 15 - 20 degrees and there is a pocket where if the chra is flat it wouldn't siphon out and just boil. clocking the turbo slightly promote the hot water to move upstream.

They have also advised run the exit water feed directly to the raditor. Top right. They said this has been proved to be the best way but isn't aways possible depending on the setup.

psyber_0ptix

iTrader: (4)

Are you using any wetting agents in the coolant ?

Routing it to the radiator will help shed heat before being pulled into the pump again. I'll be doing the same thing when I revamp my coolant stuff.

fooger03

iTrader: (2)

Running your radiator fans after engine shutoff is only going to accomplish one thing: reducing the life of your battery.

Seriously - pressure test your cooling system and make repairs until it can reliably hold 20 psi...

Then put a 14-16 PSI cap on the radiator and be done with it.

Everything else you're doing is a waste of time, effort, money.

Clocking the turbo isn't going to do jack **** for you - taking the high point out of your water line will marginally help, but won't fix your post shut-down complaints.

For the record, no matter what you do, you're going to be able to audibly detect at least some heat-related post-shutdown activity going on in the CHRA; even if you idle for 10 minutes before shutting it down...unless you put a fan timer on your ****, in which case the fans are going to cover the sounds of said activity while cooling the coolant in the radiator and doing nothing to cool the coolant in the turbocharger. The only "clocking" you should be doing to the turbocharger is ensuring that the oil supply line is as close to "up" as possible; which looks to be in the exact orientation that FM shipped it to you.

NBoost

No, you didn't already do that. You replaced it with a cap of a different spec, which is only going to make this harder. Put OE spec cap back on.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

$20 says both radiator caps are bad

dc2696

iTrader: (2)

Problem solved!! Good work OP on coming up with an innovative solution to a complex situation!


lol

Lawone

Little update.

went to another extreme which solved the problem but also created another one.

I spoke to owen devlopments a turbo company here in the UK.

they said to clock the turbo or.. do the turbo return directly to the radiator which they said is the setup they alway do if possible.

so got the mixing manifold welding up and changed abit to suit my setup better and got a 8mm barb welded onto the top right of the radiator.

lovely I thought so fitted it all back up and low and behold it works perfectly and you can hear the water being pulled through on shut off and no cap popping problem.

but guess f**king what... the car cruises at 65c and won't get up to temperature.

Bastard!!! So the fact I have bypassed the mixing manifold that 8mm hole is basically the same as drilling your thermostat with a 8mm hole.

Bloody great..

so im back to square one wishing I just tried the fan mod first. Which may or may not of solved the problem anyway.

FML!!


so do I cover some of the radiator during the winter months. (It's winter here 5-10c and will get lower)

or drill out the mixing manifold and clock the turbo and fit it back to normal?

fooger03

iTrader: (2)

Well, since you've done such a good job of listening to us so far and implementing our suggestions vice inventing your own, let me take 5 minutes of my own time to talk you through everything you need to know in order to solve this issue....

Lawone

The only suggestion really..

Was to route the pipe under the turbo not over.

But as I had been advised to go direct to the radiator by a known turbo specialist I thought I try that.

But it would seem 8mm flow of water is enough to cool our engines by 20c.

so I am going to route the pipe under and see what happens and update. as per this thread suggested idea.

deezums

iTrader: (3)

No ******* **** the car won't get up to temperature. The only thing that should ever meter water to the radiator on a street car is the thermostat. If you do it any other way the thermostat is pointless.

Whoever told you to do that is an idiot. Cap it off and go back to how you had it. Fix the air leak.

You are always going to boil coolant if there is an air leak. It won't boil, or you won't notice it boil, while it's running because it's constantly replacing the lost pressure.

Fans aren't going to do anything.

psyber_0ptix

iTrader: (4)

Did you fix the leak?

Lawone

I re-did all the fittings on the water feed to make sure there were okay.

deezums

iTrader: (3)

Did you test it the right way before you disabled the thermostat?

Lawone

I rechecked all the lines and refitted them to make sure all was okay.

tested the car, same problem.

Then got bits welded on. Which fixed the problem and you could hear the water correctly shiponing on the turbo.

But this was with the thermostat technically disabled.


im now going to do as suggested here and run pipe underneath if it does the same again I will clock the turbo and hope for the best!