UofACATS

iTrader: (1)

Well folks it starts so I guess I'll start a thread about it..
Here are the components:


Forced Performance Big T28 turbo (DSM flange)

Megan Racing stainless manifold and 2.5" downpipe

Tuner Toys braided oil feed line and "T" adapter, 48"

JGStools 10AN Silicone oil-drain line, 24"

BEGI AFPR

Starion 14-Row FMIC (OTR, P/S, A/C)

Ebay DIY aluminum 2.5" intercooler piping, silicone couplers, t-bolts. ~27 inches of I/C piping.

Olderguy o2 clamp.

Pierburg fuel pump

Bipes ACU

CAI

Greddy-S BOV (Knockoff)

Fabbed square-to-round MAF adapter, K&N

A ton of random stuff which I'll post in a bit. I kept a list, prices included.

tylerdurden

Hmmm, I've been wanting someone to try that turbo, just on a 1.8. Either way, I'll be interested to see how it performs.

UofACATS

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, we'll see. Lucky me, I have a T25 with the exact same flange waiting in case I don't like how the T28 "feels." Also, swapping turbos will be easy enough, everything is exposed.

UofACATS

iTrader: (1)

Me too. Right now it'll be with stock cat-back for smog/registration purposes. Stock 1.6 injectors, stock MAF to get it on the road. I have a LM-1 wideband for tuning, so we'll get to see some limits reached.

Once that's settled I'll add the RX-7 MAF, and 1.8 inj. and, of course a DIY exhaust. Probably a 2.5, but If I get in there and there's room, might as well rock the 3" just for the overkill

UofACATS

iTrader: (1)

I'll start posting details about the specific parts.

CAI, filter outside of engine bay.

Note: this is the mock-up. Things don't fit just right, and you can see the stock rubber elbow used, which i'll be replacing with a close radius bend, etc. Enjoy.

Honestly this might not be the smartest idea, *water drain* but if I remove it, I'm drawing cold air from the hole anyway, similar to samnavy's CAI setup (which I can post if that's OK, or he can if it's not visible in the vBGarage) so I might as well "play around" with having a "real" cold air intake.

If I have my filter in the corner of the engine bay, I'll shield it and open it up to the hole in the firewall.

Worth mentioning, this is not my daily driver, so it's a fair weather machine only, so potentially I could leave it. Although, I'd probably want to switch it to regular intake for trips or possibility of rain. Just don't want to get caught out in the rain ya know?..

Lastly, it's a horribly small filter. I've yet to calculate flow potential as per bripab007's info (thanks again Brian) but I could do the unscientific test of 3rd gear pull...remove filter (say short prayer) 3rd gear pull and see the difference.

Sirnixalot

i want to boneth yor car, sounds sweet as ****, hope fully my car sounds as good later on next year

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

you had the perfect turbo to run the pipes beside the power steering. awesome intake, can the hood close with the afm?

UofACATS

iTrader: (1)

Right now it's too high, but it's just the mock-up anyway.

I need to flip the MAF like yours. You flipped it correct? Does this alter its operation?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

no, but i did notice the position can effect the idle AFR

UofACATS

iTrader: (1)

Who the heck flipped their AFM?

Anyway, before I routed it through the firewall, I had the intake hooked up and test fitted fine. I'm using a custom made square-to-round MAF adapter, and it's taking up the room where the filter would normally reside. I can always remove it, buy an ebay adapter, or just make it fit.

UofACATS

iTrader: (1)

Starion 14-Row FMIC (OTR, P/S, A/C)

Starion front mount. I wanted the shortest piping possible using over-the-radiator configuration, but mostly this just seemed like the simplest routing of the pipes. (pic) This is the only small pic I have, just before oil today, thus the bib.

EDIT: I measured the total intercooler piping length: Right about 27".

I lowered and angled the radiator, and made some reinforcement tabs for good measure. The intercooler is sandwiched between the A/C core and the radiator core. Performance is TBA. I'm in AZ, so I really didn't want to lose the AC.

I made some small aluminum spacers for the AC core.

(Please see post # 24 for pictures) You can also see the whole bay. I need some more black couplers (blue looked so lame), as well as other TLC

F20turbo

looks really good, but why paint the IC couplers? LOL

UofACATS

iTrader: (1)

Could not stand the blue. Now I can't stand the blue painted black. Went from looking lame to looking stupid

*In search of flat black couplers* Also, need a hump connector at the TB.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

sorry yes I meant I flipped it. no about functionality. ahhh over the top! looking really good.

Dange

well i have the ebay square to round maf adapter if you would like to see if you want one just let me know im more than willing to do what i can to help. i also know the owners of a couple shops here in town and in phoenix i can probably get you some black couplers if i call around. that and some cheap dynotime if interested.
im also doing a DIY settup but with a 16g on a 1.6.
i was wondering if i could get a ride sometime, ive ridden in geoffs 300hp ubercharged miata, but i want to feel the different powerband. I think I would enjoy turbo boost better

plus it will probably get me motivated quicker to finish mine


btw pm'ed you my phone number and e-mail

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

should be easy to clean off. See if Corky will sell you flat black couplers I know he uses them on his kits.

Snowsurfer03

I LOVE THAT I/C SET-UP!

Good luck with the rest of the set-up.

magnamx-5

iTrader: (7)

i like the filter setup. How are you going to keep water out of it
:( though? I didnt know they made a megan racing for the 1.8 hmm.

RicanmiataRacer

Errrrrr....why Not Meeee ! I Want That! :(

UofACATS

iTrader: (1)

Thanks, Braineack. For the most part I'm pleased with how it's looking. So, a no-go on flipping it huh? I think I can get it to work without..