Oil cooler in cowl area under driver's side windshield?
#1
Oil cooler in cowl area under driver's side windshield?
Is there enough airflow here to make it worthwhile to put an oil cooler there? Dimensions are 17 x 1.5 x 1.5 and it looks like there is plenty of room below the windshield wipers. I figured this would be very straightforward if I was already relocating the oil filter away from the clutter of the coolant reroute.
#2
There's no air flow there unless you make a way for it escape/exit/
Don't get that cooler - IMO it's not worth the space it takes up. There are far more efficient coolers - especially for engine oil. Check out the true cool coolers at racerpartswholesale.com OR look for an rx7 or mercedes cooler on ebay if you want a long skinny one. And use something with threaded fittings - makes sense given the pressure the oiling system generates. - rob
Don't get that cooler - IMO it's not worth the space it takes up. There are far more efficient coolers - especially for engine oil. Check out the true cool coolers at racerpartswholesale.com OR look for an rx7 or mercedes cooler on ebay if you want a long skinny one. And use something with threaded fittings - makes sense given the pressure the oiling system generates. - rob
#3
Racerpartswholesale, thanks. Oh cool, they are cheap. How many rows should I run? As many as I can fit?
I guess I am going to mount it above the intercooler, just below the hood latch, in the area most people block off. I decided to remove the bottom support bracket for the hood latch since it takes up a ton of space underneath.
Hey, any advice on thermostat, etc? FM sells a filter mounted thermostat with with 8AN fittings for about 100 bucks. Anything cheaper/better?
Also, I dont see how using thread mounts is an advantage unless teh threaded connector is somehow permanently attached to the tube. Aren't they all just attached with clamps/barbs? The tru-cool stuff is all NPT fittings. I don't really understand the whole AN fitting idea. What's the advantage of AN?
I guess I am going to mount it above the intercooler, just below the hood latch, in the area most people block off. I decided to remove the bottom support bracket for the hood latch since it takes up a ton of space underneath.
Hey, any advice on thermostat, etc? FM sells a filter mounted thermostat with with 8AN fittings for about 100 bucks. Anything cheaper/better?
Also, I dont see how using thread mounts is an advantage unless teh threaded connector is somehow permanently attached to the tube. Aren't they all just attached with clamps/barbs? The tru-cool stuff is all NPT fittings. I don't really understand the whole AN fitting idea. What's the advantage of AN?
Last edited by beerslurpy; 08-14-2007 at 11:28 PM.
#5
Hay guise, question for you.
I'm going to put a 5x11 oil cool up front, just above my intercooler. The cost of this is already factored in:
Should I pick...
Door number 1 for $130:
Mocal 180 Thermostat with oil filter in stock location. This is basically the FM cooler minus the 20 dollar flying miata tax for purple connectors.
Door number 2 for $73:
No thermostat, just an always on oil cooler with oil filter in stock location
Door number 3 for $140:
Remote mount oil filter (putting it in easy reach instead of under my coolant reroute pipes, with in-line thermostat and oil cooler up front.
Door number 4 for ?:
Some alternate approach of your design.
I'm going to put a 5x11 oil cool up front, just above my intercooler. The cost of this is already factored in:
Should I pick...
Door number 1 for $130:
Mocal 180 Thermostat with oil filter in stock location. This is basically the FM cooler minus the 20 dollar flying miata tax for purple connectors.
Door number 2 for $73:
No thermostat, just an always on oil cooler with oil filter in stock location
Door number 3 for $140:
Remote mount oil filter (putting it in easy reach instead of under my coolant reroute pipes, with in-line thermostat and oil cooler up front.
Door number 4 for ?:
Some alternate approach of your design.
#6
depending on where you live door number 2 wouldn't be a good idea. you car will never get up to proper operating temperatures, unless you just bring the car out for nice hot track days.
my friend recently plumbed a in-line thermostat such as your door number 3 option, it seemed like a bitch because he had to buy so many AN fittings to get it all to work and the size of the in-line thermostat was hard to find a spot to bolt it in the engine bay.
i think you should go with door number 1, thats personally the route im going to take once i get an oil cooler. i think the sandwich plate style thermostat is a space saving idea and works better then the in-line. i was going to go with a fm t-stat, but since u mention mocal makes one i might have to look into that. goodluck and i hope i was of some use.
my friend recently plumbed a in-line thermostat such as your door number 3 option, it seemed like a bitch because he had to buy so many AN fittings to get it all to work and the size of the in-line thermostat was hard to find a spot to bolt it in the engine bay.
i think you should go with door number 1, thats personally the route im going to take once i get an oil cooler. i think the sandwich plate style thermostat is a space saving idea and works better then the in-line. i was going to go with a fm t-stat, but since u mention mocal makes one i might have to look into that. goodluck and i hope i was of some use.
#7
I went with door 3 and I split the order between RPH and summit. I got the hoses, thermotat and filter mount much cheaper at summit, got the other stuff cheaper at RPH. Total cost was about 160 counting houses and couplings. So Door 1 turned out to be the most expensive due to the realtive difficulty of getting uber cheap mocal stuff.
Just have to install it now. I think I'll bung my extra temperature sender into an oil line.
Just have to install it now. I think I'll bung my extra temperature sender into an oil line.
#8
that sounds like a good plan to me. Hope you can document the process with some pics and a thread. Would be useful to those thinking of an oil cooler install.
Plumb it return line so you can see the difference the cooler is making (assuming your other oil temp sensor is in the pan- or some other area reflecting hot oil temps).
I think I'll bung my extra temperature sender into an oil line.
#9
Here is the car with intercooler and front bumper removed. I removed the lower bracket that holds the hood latch in place and I will mount the cooler right there. The intercooler is mounted at an angle so that all the air that doesnt go through the intercooler will go through the oil cooler when the car moves.
#12
I wished had some details like part numbers - but here's the shortlist.
1- hayden sandwich plate adapter
2- two oil cooler lines (mine are hydraulic Jic 37°)
3- oil cooler
You can get the hayden sandwich plate with the internal tstat if you need your oil to warm before cooling for street driving, but for track it's not needed. First decide which size cooler and where it will mount. Then use something (garden hose, electrical wire...) that will figure out the hose length. Then by the hose ready made, or one length with fittings and make your own. If I were you I'd get the next size up trucool cooler (same as beerslurpy 5x11) because of the high duty level (road course) in your car. The hydraulic lines and fittings are cheaper than the automotive AN stuff, but the AN stuff is going very cheap on ebay as used nascar equipment.
1- hayden sandwich plate adapter
2- two oil cooler lines (mine are hydraulic Jic 37°)
3- oil cooler
You can get the hayden sandwich plate with the internal tstat if you need your oil to warm before cooling for street driving, but for track it's not needed. First decide which size cooler and where it will mount. Then use something (garden hose, electrical wire...) that will figure out the hose length. Then by the hose ready made, or one length with fittings and make your own. If I were you I'd get the next size up trucool cooler (same as beerslurpy 5x11) because of the high duty level (road course) in your car. The hydraulic lines and fittings are cheaper than the automotive AN stuff, but the AN stuff is going very cheap on ebay as used nascar equipment.
#13
From summit:
PRM-1070 Remote Oil Thermostat, Aluminum, Dual 1/2 in. NPT Female Inlets, Dual 1/2 in. NPT Female Outlets, Each $41.88 1 $41.88
PRM-132 Oil Hose, Replacement, Rubber, Black, 1/2 in. Diameter, 11.5 ft. Length, Each $32.69 1 $32.69
PRM-1791 Oil Filter Mount, Single Filter, 1/2 in. NPT Inlet/Outlet, 3/4 in.-16 Thread Filter, Each $22.88 1 $22.88
From RPH:
PER116 Spin On Adapter $13.49 ea. 1 $13.49
TRUL7B TruCool Cooler $44.95 ea. 1 $44.95
It will go sideways with airflow going up through the open area in front of the radiator that is blocked off by that plastic plate from the factory.
PRM-1070 Remote Oil Thermostat, Aluminum, Dual 1/2 in. NPT Female Inlets, Dual 1/2 in. NPT Female Outlets, Each $41.88 1 $41.88
PRM-132 Oil Hose, Replacement, Rubber, Black, 1/2 in. Diameter, 11.5 ft. Length, Each $32.69 1 $32.69
PRM-1791 Oil Filter Mount, Single Filter, 1/2 in. NPT Inlet/Outlet, 3/4 in.-16 Thread Filter, Each $22.88 1 $22.88
From RPH:
PER116 Spin On Adapter $13.49 ea. 1 $13.49
TRUL7B TruCool Cooler $44.95 ea. 1 $44.95
It will go sideways with airflow going up through the open area in front of the radiator that is blocked off by that plastic plate from the factory.
#15
I'll cut and paste the relevant stuff into a new thread when the parts get here.
For now, here is the plan. It was super hard to illustrate depth, so feel free to ask questions. Once I actually implement this, it will be much easier to visualize the spacial relationships.
For now, here is the plan. It was super hard to illustrate depth, so feel free to ask questions. Once I actually implement this, it will be much easier to visualize the spacial relationships.
Last edited by beerslurpy; 08-16-2007 at 01:27 AM.
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