rods only
#1
rods only
So, I don't want a crazy 350hp miata. I want a moderate maybe 250hp. If I just throw forged rods in, would I be alright? Pistons should be good for that right? I have the motor out of the car right now awaiting full seal/gasket replacement as well as a happy meal clutch. Also going to (I know I know) finally drill and tap the oil pan for the oil drain.
The car is a 1.6 with a greddy kit. It has 550cc injectors, MS3x, mbc, no a/c and no heat (po cut the brass fittings). I am in the process of getting an open 1.8 diff/axles/driveshaft while the motor is out. Eventually the car will be turning into an exocet (think 6 months maybe longer).
So are forged rods only good enough to not grenade the motor? Or should I do pistons as well? Thanks.
The car is a 1.6 with a greddy kit. It has 550cc injectors, MS3x, mbc, no a/c and no heat (po cut the brass fittings). I am in the process of getting an open 1.8 diff/axles/driveshaft while the motor is out. Eventually the car will be turning into an exocet (think 6 months maybe longer).
So are forged rods only good enough to not grenade the motor? Or should I do pistons as well? Thanks.
#3
Awesome, thank you. I should really be OK without rods as long as I can control the torque at lower rpms. But I think I would rather throw them in anyway.
If someone doesn't mind, can you check these fittings and make sure I have what I need to do my oil drain?
Turbo Oil Drain Flange 8AN Mitsubishi TD04 TD05 TD06 | eBay
8 An Male Flare to 3 8" NPT Pipe Thread Blue Pre 60886 | eBay
Pre 10890 8 An 90 Degree Swivel Hose End Fitting for Braided Hose Red Blue | eBay
Pre 10800 8 An Straight Swivel Hose End Fitting Braid Anodized Aluminium | eBay
I think that is all I need, minus the hose.
If someone doesn't mind, can you check these fittings and make sure I have what I need to do my oil drain?
Turbo Oil Drain Flange 8AN Mitsubishi TD04 TD05 TD06 | eBay
8 An Male Flare to 3 8" NPT Pipe Thread Blue Pre 60886 | eBay
Pre 10890 8 An 90 Degree Swivel Hose End Fitting for Braided Hose Red Blue | eBay
Pre 10800 8 An Straight Swivel Hose End Fitting Braid Anodized Aluminium | eBay
I think that is all I need, minus the hose.
#4
Unless you plan to show off those fitting, stay away. They're more trouble than needed. Plus the super cheap eBay ones are super cheap and will leak at the swivel.
Get some name brand fitting and be done.
For example: Brass Push Lock Hose Fittings | Dallas, Fort Worth, Cleburne, Pleasanton, Midland, Texas | 4-STAR Hose
Push lock style is great for oil drain and cheep too
Get some name brand fitting and be done.
For example: Brass Push Lock Hose Fittings | Dallas, Fort Worth, Cleburne, Pleasanton, Midland, Texas | 4-STAR Hose
Push lock style is great for oil drain and cheep too
#7
Not going to make a new thread for this. But quick question.
I drilled the pan out to 9/16, and tapped to 3/8 npt. Threaded the tap almost all the way through, only left 2 threads left on the end. Man there were a lot of metal shavings. Glad I have the pan off! I tapped it here because the car doesn't have A/C, so the bracket is not there. I used JB weld on the threads, threaded it though and left 2 threads left on it to cover with the JB weld. Does this look like it will hold up fine?
I drilled the pan out to 9/16, and tapped to 3/8 npt. Threaded the tap almost all the way through, only left 2 threads left on the end. Man there were a lot of metal shavings. Glad I have the pan off! I tapped it here because the car doesn't have A/C, so the bracket is not there. I used JB weld on the threads, threaded it though and left 2 threads left on it to cover with the JB weld. Does this look like it will hold up fine?
#9
I'm pretty sure it will hold up fine as well, just wanted to get another opinion.
1.6 coolant reroute question. I know all you have to do is swap the front housing with the rear, but what do you do with the heater core line up front? It interferes with the timing belt area. Just cut it off and put a plug or weld it shut?
Also, for the rear, since I don't have a heater core, is there enough space to put the thermoswitch in like it sits? Or do I need to cap that off, drill and tap on the side?
Thanks for the help!
1.6 coolant reroute question. I know all you have to do is swap the front housing with the rear, but what do you do with the heater core line up front? It interferes with the timing belt area. Just cut it off and put a plug or weld it shut?
Also, for the rear, since I don't have a heater core, is there enough space to put the thermoswitch in like it sits? Or do I need to cap that off, drill and tap on the side?
Thanks for the help!
#11
Cpt. Slow
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Wrong, wrong, so much wrong.
Rear neck needs to be on a spacer*, so you can thread in the sensor that's currently sitting on the front of your engine, and to fit a hose barb to feed the heater core. Once this spacer is in place, the old front water neck will need to be milled down and welded shut, or it'll hit the firewall.
Front neck needs** to have a plate bolted on, we never reuse the rear neck. This plate needs to be drilled and tapped for the fan switch***, which is currently sitting on the back of your engine.
*unless you drill and tap the head for these sensors.
**unless you remove and replace with a freeze plug behind the timing belt.
***unless you have an aftermarket ECU controlling the fan off the ECU's coolant sensor.
Rear neck needs to be on a spacer*, so you can thread in the sensor that's currently sitting on the front of your engine, and to fit a hose barb to feed the heater core. Once this spacer is in place, the old front water neck will need to be milled down and welded shut, or it'll hit the firewall.
Front neck needs** to have a plate bolted on, we never reuse the rear neck. This plate needs to be drilled and tapped for the fan switch***, which is currently sitting on the back of your engine.
*unless you drill and tap the head for these sensors.
**unless you remove and replace with a freeze plug behind the timing belt.
***unless you have an aftermarket ECU controlling the fan off the ECU's coolant sensor.
#14
Yeah after posting those pictures I realized I have one of skou's spacers sitting on my desk. I will use that in the rear. Hose barb for the heater hose going to the mixing manifold. Stock ecu sensor in there as well. I have a ms3x, so I can run the fan from that. Ordered the freeze plug kit from trackspeed and the Kia water neck from begi.
#15
Other than that, I just want to get rid of the stock differential for now. Later on down the road I can swap to the torsen if I feel I need to. Also touching on the "rods for 250whp" subject. I will probably throw pistons in as well to give me the upgrade path if I ever want to go with a bigger turbo. My goal for now is just there at the breaking point for stock rods so I don't want to do this work then bend a rod and have to pull the motor again.
#16
If your car is eventually going to be a doner for an exocet, looks like you're pulling the motor for the most part anyway (unless you simply lift the shell).
Why not just keep your car running the way it is; and build a spare 1.8 motor with the **** and whistles for the exocet. Might as well.
Why not just keep your car running the way it is; and build a spare 1.8 motor with the **** and whistles for the exocet. Might as well.
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