Atlanta93LE

iTrader: (5)

Ok...got the Miata out from hibernation after my wedding break, and took it for a decently long spin. Aside from having to jump start it, and the occasional in-boost miss (have some ideas on that one), when I parked it and did the cursory post-drive inspection, I saw that the CHRA had a shiny film of liquid on the top and sides. I'm thinking it has to be oil (too hot to touch to find out), and it's just one of the feed line fittings not quite tight enough, or the copper washer not crushed enough, or something like that. Not a lot of oil, just some slight weeping. I'm not missing something else that it could be, am I? Obviously, I'll check it tomorrow once it has cooled enough to touch.

Atlanta93LE

iTrader: (5)

Bueller?

SloS13

iTrader: (1)

try tightening everything down? Thats about all I could advise at the moment with the given info. What crush washer do you speak of? is it a banjo fitting?

m2cupcar

iTrader: (5)

ben- I've had the same problem. I've got a 90 screwed into the feed bung and it needs to point a specific direction. It leaks less every time I a make a full turn. Just trying to go too far and have it facing the wrong way (like that back of the compressor). I was using those aluminum flanges for the feed and drain, but it seems that the threads opened up on both of them after 500 miles and they started to leak.

Atlanta93LE

iTrader: (5)

I have a -4AN oil feed line with built-in 90° going to a restrictor, which goes to the adapter fitting into the turbo. Between the adapter and turbo CHRA is a copper washer.

I'll give everything a snug tonight after work and see if the leak is still present.

MX5Kuro

I finished my DIY kit too and I have a little leak between the restrictor and the turbo. The restrictor is directly mounted on the turbo without a copper washer, because that isn't possible.

The restrictor is connected to a -4AN feedline. I was thinking using loktite or hi-temp silicon sealing but liquid sealers aren't recommended in oilcircuits. I mounted the restrictor as tight as can be, I'm afraid it will snap if I put more pressure on it. Any idea's.

m2cupcar

iTrader: (5)

If it's "that" tight, you might pull it out and see what the threads look like. It's possible too wreck the threads from over tightening, and once that happens it's nearly impossible to get a seal. Using any sealer there will only be a temp fix due to the heat... unfortunately.

MX5Kuro

Filling the space up (JB weld) and than use a copper washer be an option?

Arkmage

iTrader: (3)

get some "swak" from swagelok. excellent plumbers dope that works great even at high temps. I don't know if it will hold up on a turbo, but it can't hurt to try it.

Kelly

iTrader: (6)

I use Permatex teflon sealant on oil feed and drain fittings. Never had an issue. Give it a shot.

m2cupcar

iTrader: (5)

I used the same **** and it vanished. I've only got about 15* where I can aim the right angle feed off the center section. I'm gonna start looking for a banjo fitting to used. Anybody know of something off the shelf that will fit a T3 center section?

cjernigan

iTrader: (13)

anplumbing.com arent the T3 centers 1/8" NPT?

MX5Kuro

What about Permatex® High Temperature Thread Sealant (59214)?

Quote from the Permatex website:"Suggested Applications: Head bolts into through holes, oil PSI sending units and sensors, oil and coolant lines, fuel fittings, rear axle fill plug, brake and power steering fittings"

It's a hi temp sealant to 400F. Must be sufficient.

beerslurpy

I use teflon paste on the threads. It has held up fine.