DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

Water/Oil Problems

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 11-17-2015, 12:42 PM
  #21  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
MeOtter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Knoxville TN
Posts: 47
Total Cats: -3
Default

My afrs weren't terrible but in the lean range. I stayed out of boost for the most part. I'm considering starting over and building the motor again just to get everything cleaned up. I'm at work for a couple of more hours so as soon as I get off I'm gonna go tinker with it some.
MeOtter is offline  
Old 11-17-2015, 12:51 PM
  #22  
VladiTuned
iTrader: (76)
 
18psi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 35,821
Total Cats: 3,481
Default

The key here is figuring out the problem
If you simply rebuild, there's a strong chance you'll dump a bunch of money for no reason
troubleshooting sucks, tedious work, but kinda mandatory
18psi is offline  
Old 11-17-2015, 01:02 PM
  #23  
Boost Pope
iTrader: (8)
 
Joe Perez's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Chicago. (The less-murder part.)
Posts: 33,022
Total Cats: 6,589
Default

Originally Posted by MeOtter
Will running lean blow ur head gasket?
No, although it may cause danger to the manifold and blow the welds on your intake.


The head gaskets in the '94 and later engines are made of three thin layers of steel, rather than the composite material most of us are familiar with. They're pretty hard to kill, but also less tolerant of warpage / unevenness in the block or head mating surfaces.

Have you done a warm compression test? That will likely give some idea as to whether the head-to-block mating interface is faulty. Likewise, you could run the engine (while cool) with the radiator cap removed and look for bubbles coming up out of it.


The fact that you've scored a trifecta here (smoke, coolant in oil, oil in coolant) is confounding, but there are a pretty finite number of places it could be happening, and most of them are in the mm or so between the block and the head.

Last edited by Joe Perez; 11-17-2015 at 07:22 PM.
Joe Perez is offline  
Old 11-17-2015, 01:03 PM
  #24  
VladiTuned
iTrader: (76)
 
18psi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 35,821
Total Cats: 3,481
Default

Josephus speaketh the truth
18psi is offline  
Old 11-17-2015, 03:28 PM
  #25  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
MeOtter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Knoxville TN
Posts: 47
Total Cats: -3
Default

That clears a lot up. I am gonna pull the plugs out tonight and try to get a compression test. It currently isn't wanting to start. So I will have to do it cold.
MeOtter is offline  
Old 11-17-2015, 03:36 PM
  #26  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
MeOtter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Knoxville TN
Posts: 47
Total Cats: -3
Default

What is the mm?
MeOtter is offline  
Old 11-17-2015, 04:00 PM
  #27  
VladiTuned
iTrader: (76)
 
18psi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 35,821
Total Cats: 3,481
Default

the millimeter is a measurement of space
18psi is offline  
Old 11-17-2015, 04:09 PM
  #28  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
MeOtter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Knoxville TN
Posts: 47
Total Cats: -3
Default

Nvm I feel stupid now I had to retread what he wrote before.
MeOtter is offline  
Old 11-17-2015, 04:35 PM
  #29  
Junior Member
 
DNA54's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Sardinia, Italy
Posts: 396
Total Cats: 56
Default

When I've built the engine, during the break-in I saw oil in the coolant. I changed the coolant twice and I never saw again. It was the honing at the machine shop: every coolant route was filled with oil.
Can it be your case?
DNA54 is offline  
Old 11-17-2015, 04:36 PM
  #30  
Elite Member
iTrader: (4)
 
psyber_0ptix's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 4,648
Total Cats: 544
Default

Originally Posted by 18psi
the millimeter is a measurement of length while space is volumetric
mayhaps?
psyber_0ptix is offline  
Old 11-17-2015, 04:37 PM
  #31  
Elite Member
iTrader: (4)
 
psyber_0ptix's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 4,648
Total Cats: 544
Default

Originally Posted by DNA54
When I've built the engine, during the break-in I saw oil in the coolant. I changed the coolant twice and I never saw again. It was the honing at the machine shop: every coolant route was filled with oil.
Can it be your case?
Should be sent through a parts cleaner before assembly, right?
psyber_0ptix is offline  
Old 11-17-2015, 04:40 PM
  #32  
Junior Member
 
DNA54's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Sardinia, Italy
Posts: 396
Total Cats: 56
Default

Originally Posted by psyber_0ptix
Should be sent through a parts cleaner before assembly, right?
They didn't. I cleaned what I could, but I focused on the oil passages.
DNA54 is offline  
Old 11-17-2015, 05:04 PM
  #33  
Boost Pope
iTrader: (8)
 
Joe Perez's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Chicago. (The less-murder part.)
Posts: 33,022
Total Cats: 6,589
Default

I think I may be mixing up threads here.

Did I imagine it where the OP said he was getting smoke out the tailpipe? Or was that a different thread?


Regardless: the engine overheated and now it won't start. This doesn't sound like residual machining oil.
Joe Perez is offline  
Old 11-17-2015, 07:11 PM
  #34  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
MeOtter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Knoxville TN
Posts: 47
Total Cats: -3
Default

You may of imaged it I never said that lol I'm home now trying to find my compression tester.
MeOtter is offline  
Old 11-17-2015, 07:21 PM
  #35  
Boost Pope
iTrader: (8)
 
Joe Perez's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Chicago. (The less-murder part.)
Posts: 33,022
Total Cats: 6,589
Default

Originally Posted by MeOtter
You may of imaged it I never said that lol
Too many weird problems going on at the same time...

I'm now far less certain that the problem is at the head-to-block interface. A crack somewhere is likely.

Do a cooling system pressure test.



And let's have some more detail on this "no start" condition. Does it crank over freely but merely won't fire? What was really going on when it overheated and shut down? Did the engine act as though it was siezed when you tried to re-start it immediately thereafter?
Joe Perez is offline  
Old 11-17-2015, 07:32 PM
  #36  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
MeOtter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Knoxville TN
Posts: 47
Total Cats: -3
Default

1 160psi
2 175psi
3 155psi
4 165psi
MeOtter is offline  
Old 11-17-2015, 07:32 PM
  #37  
VladiTuned
iTrader: (76)
 
18psi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 35,821
Total Cats: 3,481
Default

not too bad
18psi is offline  
Old 11-17-2015, 08:09 PM
  #38  
Former Vendor
iTrader: (31)
 
Savington's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Sunnyvale, CA
Posts: 15,442
Total Cats: 2,099
Default

...how lean were you running it? AFRs to the first decimal point, please
Savington is offline  
Old 11-17-2015, 08:10 PM
  #39  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
MeOtter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Knoxville TN
Posts: 47
Total Cats: -3
Default













Attached Thumbnails Water/Oil Problems-80-image_0e62268ab89376a03b321b00e9068f02339af6bb.jpeg   Water/Oil Problems-80-image_1a351089db9d9085257ac7de8d1923093ee6384c.jpeg   Water/Oil Problems-80-image_bf0130ed3daeab1aace3c85e81d996287c54fa74.jpeg   Water/Oil Problems-80-image_ff8401755eff79fd3a0a0aefed40bd2ed6fcf721.jpeg   Water/Oil Problems-80-image_ae855d543c664860febbb75a8a806182aef5b447.jpeg  

MeOtter is offline  
Old 11-17-2015, 08:12 PM
  #40  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
MeOtter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Knoxville TN
Posts: 47
Total Cats: -3
Default

I was staying in the 13-14 range no boost. Some times 15 by not running it hard.
MeOtter is offline  


Quick Reply: Water/Oil Problems



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 05:39 AM.