What do you think!
T25 from Nissan 200sx 1.8.
5th injector on outlet from turbo compressor(as E-Cool)
Vac switch to activate 5th injector and forces ECU onto WOT maps as manifold vac drops through 1" of vac.
I'm running std timing 10deg. 8psi boost and no knock and no intercooler!
Have voltage control to AFM to control fuelling at WOT on boost
Home brewed adj fuel press reg - extra 10psi of fuel
Narrow band led meter to give some guidance on state of mixture. Mounted in boost gauge pod next to gauge.
Home brewed steel tubular exhaust manifold, stainless MIG welded - stainless head flange from scrapped/damaged std manifold, stainless flange to turbo.
Home made flange from turbo into 2" pipe from turbo and parallel 1 1/2" pipe from wastegate into tappering section to 3" stainless through 3" Warlock silencer. Some bends are crush bends so not so good but still plenty of area.
Crossover tubing donated by Volvo 940 and a turbo Saab something!
Recirculating BOV as per Saab 93 brand new from Mill Autos less than £17!! Recirculating necessary as bypass air contains some petrol.
Home made aluminium NACA vented head lamp cover. Lumi weld is great for this sort of thing.
[Nothing to do with above performance mods, or perhaps everything, 1.8 brakes all round with Mintex M1144 pads up front, KONI adjustable adjustables(no it's not a stammer) with AVO 300lb/in springs up front and 200lb/in springs at rear.]
Problems so far - after first running up to full temp and cool down, manifold pulled flange to head out of true probably due to stress relieving and flange being a little thin only 10mm - 1/2" would have been stonger. Removed and filed true (I'm an engineer of the old school). Now done 200 well boosted miles and no reoccurance of problem. Underestimate heat generated by manifold so some appropriate heat shielding put in place has resolved problem. I'd already made some room for heater tubing at back of head.
Now can I download crummy photos from photobucket?
Those welds don't look pretty do they.
I think that's done it.