DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

What mods to make going stock easier?

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Old 12-02-2014, 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Guy Farting
I never said a megasquirt was hard.

I'm now confused as to what the current subject is, then. Why are we concerned with what the muscle and drag guys use if Megasquirt isn't hard?
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Old 12-02-2014, 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by concealer404
You know what else is used a lot in drag cars and muscle cars?



Carbs.
So your contrubution to this is I should use a giant holley carburetor capable of feeding a 500ci 1000hp V8 on my 1.8L miata.

No I think it would be wiser to look at a highly tuned street car making a crap load more power to see what EFI setup they use because they have more experience than I do.

If I have offended your affection for whatever the crap it is that you run I am very sorry. I didnt intend to question or doubt the wisdom of a EFI tuning wizard with my humble questions.
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Old 12-02-2014, 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by concealer404
I'm now confused as to what the current subject is, then. Why are we concerned with what the muscle and drag guys use if Megasquirt isn't hard?
I didn't say it was hard. I also didn't say it wasn't hard.
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Old 12-02-2014, 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Guy Farting
So your contrubution to this is I should use a giant holley carburetor capable of feeding a 500ci 1000hp V8 on my 1.8L miata.

No I think it would be wiser to look at a highly tuned street car making a crap load more power to see what EFI setup they use because they have more experience than I do.

If I have offended your affection for whatever the crap it is that you run I am very sorry. I didnt intend to question or doubt the wisdom of a EFI tuning wizard with my humble questions.

No, it was a joke.

I run Haltech, Megasquirt, and FCON. Considering trying Syvecs next.

The point is.... our computers are not holding us back from making power. Our stone age tiny motors are. And our paper mache transmissions.

Use whatever ECU you want, but there's not a whole lot that we have to learn from drag/muscle cars.
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Old 12-02-2014, 02:59 PM
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ok now I'm hard
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Old 12-02-2014, 03:02 PM
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Originally Posted by 18psi
ok now I'm hard

I'm not saying I'm hard. I'm also not saying I'm not hard.
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Old 12-02-2014, 03:03 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by concealer404
there's not a whole lot that we have to learn from drag/muscle cars.
Have you not been reading the Cadanian Redneck thread?

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Old 12-02-2014, 03:06 PM
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Well played.
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Old 12-02-2014, 05:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Joe Perez
Have you not been reading the Cadanian Redneck thread?

Please post a DIY Guide on how I can do this on my torsen. I have a welder I can do race car things.
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Old 12-02-2014, 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Guy Farting
Please post a DIY Guide on how I can do this on my torsen. I have a welder I can do race car things.
No.
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Old 12-02-2014, 05:29 PM
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I has a xede

Originally Posted by Schuyler
Make EVERYTHING plug and play. No cutting / splicing of harnesses.
If you go MS, ^This is highly recommended IMO.

Originally Posted by Guy Farting
How long does it take to make the switch?
Do the smog ***** give you crap about say leaving an intercooler in the car or notice any changes you have made?

My car is OBD2 does this make it any more difficult?
Xede = no switch time. But you have aids power.

Originally Posted by Guy Farting
is the xede system that also uses the stock ecu and give obd2 compliance does it pass inspection? does it suck froma performance view? it sure is expensive.
Already mentioned but yea, stock + xede = aids (which does result in 'suck' performance, however your goals of 200-250whp are easily met with that choice of turbo)

Originally Posted by Guy Farting
I want a simple budget build. Either weld myself an elbow manifold or buy a cast. Would like to go with a GT2560R or find a cheap TD04 megasquirt intercooled.

200WHP would be my goal 250WHP would be amazing. Min spec would be able to at least beat a minivan.
gt2560r & xede will get you to 200-250whp. But expect limits if you're expecting to do ALLOFIT. (MAF, INJECTORS )

Originally Posted by 240_to_miata
Get a good OBD scanner that can read readiness codes AND sensor readings like o2.
^^YES. DO SO. I've relied on my OBD scanner countless times to report to me when the monitors are 'OK' status. Just recently I was able to clear 7/8, gave up on the last and went to 'just see' if I could pass. Even mentioned it to the guy up front. Said no problem, inspection sticker issued. (No CEL codes 'just yet' at the time, but my CEL Light has a on/off switch under the dash for "just in case" moments) I have 2 codes that come up frequently, coolant temp lower than expected, & something with the MAF but may be tune related.

Originally Posted by Joe Perez
As such, the OBD2 system is not interfered with in any way, and if the vehicle is properly tuned (and was capable of passing an OBD2 test before the XEDE is installed) than it should have no problem passing afterwards. Yes!

While the general consensus opinion here at MT is that MegaSquirt 3 > * (and I have personally owned several Megasquirts including an MS3Pro), I must admit that the apparent simplicity of leaving the stock ECU in place to manage the things which it's good at, and adding an external signal modifier to adjust fuel and ignition timing as appropriate, does have some appeal to me. I just wish that there were a better implementation of it available today.
Originally Posted by 18psi
To add to the Emanage/Xede post - keep in mind that while its cool for that 1 day every 2 years, you are then left with two systems which are trying to trick each other or fight each other all the time, and you are also left with a bunch of junk that you have to work around (egr, solenoids, sensors, all of which throw a code as soon as you exceed a threshold), and a bunch of limitations (the maf getting maxed out, injector size limitations, etc). Its really not all as peachy as the bandaids users will have you believe, and definitely not as great as some companies will fool you into thinking.

Megasquirt isn't all peachy either. There is a steep learning curve, there are a ton of different versions and a ton of conflicting documentation, and it takes quite a bit of time to set it up to run just as smooth as OEM. Once you "get it" though, it's not even a comparison with AIDZ.
EXACTLY!

Originally Posted by 18psi
You pay twice the money, and unless you know "the guru" for those you are stuck with even less support and help and documentation than MS.
You're left with ME, Maybe some other members I don't know about, BEGi

And the GURU


Who looked like this back in the day




Basically for what you're saying you 'need'. An xede will get you there to 200-250whp with a gt2560r. It is very easy to get an inspection as long as your tune is good (MAF out of range etc). Injectors wouldn't be an issue with the xede in use while during the inspection. For extra measure I would wire open the wastegate that day, reset codes/ecu/obdII, drive around untill all are set and no codes are coming up and go get inspected. De-wire, enjoy

At this point I'm in the process of thinking of keeping ALLOFIT, stock ecu + xede for "aids tune" and buy a separate MSPnP Pro for "The tune"... JUST to prevent myself from having to swap injectors ect dependent of coarse what my goals are in the future(still limited by injectors)... Example, if I want ID1000s ... XEDE SAY DERP?
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Old 12-02-2014, 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Girz0r
And the GURU
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Old 12-02-2014, 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Guy Farting
I hate those chemicals it seems they have one for every mechanical problem. they should be boycotted and parts stores that sell them too any part store that sells them should not have business and not be taken seriously. I am suprised they dont have one for broken rods or cracked block. people who use that stuff are those who buy those miracle fuel magnets hoping to get 100mpg. pouring it in the oil and not reading the intructions is hilarious and sad.
FWIW my bro had a 2000 Caddy SLS with the infamous stretching head bolts. When his head gasket failed he put some $40 elixir in it. Quite the process.

He got another 30k miles and almost 2 years out of the car before it started acting up again. Not bad for $40. After it started acting up again he did the treatment again and got another 6 months or so before he decided to just sell it (fix was still holding when he unloaded it... yes full disclosure sale).
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Old 12-02-2014, 10:33 PM
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Originally Posted by turbofan
FWIW my bro had a 2000 Caddy SLS with the infamous stretching head bolts. When his head gasket failed he put some $40 elixir in it. Quite the process.

He got another 30k miles and almost 2 years out of the car before it started acting up again. Not bad for $40. After it started acting up again he did the treatment again and got another 6 months or so before he decided to just sell it (fix was still holding when he unloaded it... yes full disclosure sale).
well shut my mouth! I always assumed it was just gimmicky crap taking advantage of desperate people who cant afford a proper repair. I am guessing your brothers success isn't very common.

Last edited by Guy Farting; 12-02-2014 at 10:46 PM.
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Old 12-02-2014, 11:47 PM
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You're probably right. I think some of the products work, but aren't a good idea: for example, after the second treatment his heater stopped working because his heater core was clogged

BUT the car still drove and the cooling system was no longer being pressurized, nor did it have overheating issues through an Arizona summer.
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