thenuge26

iTrader: (2)

So before I start my build, I need a garage to work in, and before I get a garage to work in I need a house to attach to the garage where I can live (silly I know).

That seems to be coming along nicely, since houses are so ****** cheap right now I don't need to worry too much about saving up for a down payment.

So here is my list. I came up with 3 different options:

• "A La Carte" method (I have no tools, so I have tried to keep it as bolt-on as possible)
• FM kit
• BEGI kit

Tentative scheduling right now is Stage 1 to be performed this winter, stage 2 next winter, stage 3 sometime after that (which is why the prices are vague for stage 3).

This can be moved up if I happen to find some more cash.

Anyway, here is the spreadsheet I have been working on. Comments would be appreciated. It's only been a few days of research, but this is what I have put together:

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...md3Ymo3YlZyUGc

Let me know what I am missing (oil lines and other details probably) and how much I can expect to pay for them if possible. Also where to get cheaper versions of things, since I am still not good at tracking down car parts (too used to Amazon being a go-to for computer parts).

Thanks.

soviet

iTrader: (10)

dude just pay money to a fabricator for your manifold/downpipe/exhaust. It's so much better than dicking around with awful 2-piece downpipes. For the money listed in your spreadsheet you can definitely get a custom setup, maybe even with v-bands?

Also from your spreadsheet you are missing:
- Intercooler piping. Damn couplers are expensive
- oil and coolant turbo lines
- bov

And why would you buy RX7 injectors? Good injectors a) outlast the car b) can be sold for nearly same purchase price if you decide so.

thenuge26

iTrader: (2)

So basically I need to lurk moar and finish reading Maximum Boost.

Duly noted.

Ryan_G

iTrader: (8)

you have a very decent budget. If you lurk the for sale sections and start gathering QUALITY parts you could make a really nice setup for that money. Definitely go ARTech for the mani/DP/exhaust.

thenuge26

iTrader: (2)

BTW in case anyone didn't notice, I priced out 1 DIY and 2 with kits (FM and BEGi), they can be found on the different sheets. Though I am leaning towards DIY for the price, I may end up going with a kit because I am a ***** and don't like adventure.

I will definitely look into V-bands though. Sounds better than sawzalling my frame rails.

soviet

iTrader: (10)

For kicks, here's the spreadsheet for my build. I already had a lot of things when I started.
At one point, I stopped tracking the costs because it just made me sad.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...EVoLVJVcng3Mmc

I also got a lot of fantastic deals.

SJP0tato

iTrader: (7)

I've been doing similar to what you've planning: Fixing/preparing for the turbo. I'm about at the point where I need to decide on a kit vs DIY within the next couple months.

Probably the most important question is: Is this your only/daily-driver car? If so, a kit makes a lot of sense. If not then you can let it sit for 3-4 days until you can get the proper AN-fitting/misc clamp/piece that you bought in the wrong size fixed, etc.

I'm about 60/40 on kit vs DIY right now, leaning towards the Flyin Miata "No Electronics" kit with a Megasquirt for engine control. I know my money would go farther gathering parts building my own setup, but it's nice knowing all the necessary pieces are there and the engineering has been done to make sure my A/C will still work with the piping, etc.

Just my own personal view, that seems somewhat similar to your own.

thenuge26

iTrader: (2)

Though we didn't have a winter last yer, I did buy a winter car. My neighbor's 96 Lincoln Mk VIII with 200k miles on it. So when this is done I will have a turbo-4 RWD summer car and a NA V8 RWD winter car.

But it will cover for a few days if the Miata is down.

thenuge26

iTrader: (2)

Also I figure I could probably reverse engineer* one of the DIY-er's IC piping.


*by reverse engineer I mean pester them about the specs.

jayhed29

I don't own a miata, but I did look into the FM no electronics kit. I would compromise in a few areas to save money to invest in others. Here is a list I put together recently for a NA 1.8L:

Phase 1 Basic Maintenance ???
---------------------------------------------------
Phase 2 Pre-turbo ---------------- $1,210.00


Rx-7 550cc Injectors -- ---------- $180.00
Braineack PNP w/ boost control -- $630.00
Flyin Miata Stage 2 Clutch-------- $400.00
---------------------------------------------------
Phase 3 Turbo Kit --------------- $2,460.00


Godspeed GT2871 Turbo----- ----- $300.00
Flyin Miata Manifold/DP Combo----- $750.00
Flyin Miata Cold Side IC Pipe------- $200.00
Ebay Intercooler Kit--------------- $200.00
Godspeed Water/Oil Line Kit-------- $75.00
Turbosmart Bypass Valve---------- $125.00
Air Filter-------------------------- $30.00
Turbo Inlet/Outlet----------------- $50.00
Flyin Miata Lower Rad Hose-------- $50.00
FM Iconnel Studs----------------- $20.00
Begi Budget Exhaust-------------- $360.00
AEM Wideband Kit ---------------- $200.00
Boost Gauge & Mount------------- $50.00
Misc.---------------------------- $50.00
---------------------------------------------------

Prices were from the manufacture websites or ebay.

thenuge26

iTrader: (2)

Very nice.

I am going to wait on a clutch. Number one I only have 53k miles on the original (I assume it is the original). Also I plan on turning the boost up slowly as I learn to tune.

I will keep it under 190wtq for a while, which should be about the limit of the factory clutch AND 5 speed. So when either of those start to go I will upgrade to a stage 1 or 2 FM clutch (or other) and a 6 speed. Tranny swap isn't too hard, that is the ONE thing I have done to a miata. Otherwise I am just making it up as I go along.

Also if money is a problem, I will wait on the injectors, since the stock ones should be OK for a couple of PSI.

Also I may end up moving the harness bar and harnesses up if I 1) find a racing seat I can live with for DD (taking suggestions) or 2) cut up the stock seat to use a 5 point. Since I was going to do a 'foamectomy' anyway, I might as well see if I can punch a 3"x1" hole in the seat bottom for another strap.

Also after finally learning how to read a compressor map, I may go for a Disco Potato instead. If I could find a 2860 china charger I might think about it.

jayhed29

I haven't seen a 2860 chinacharger, mostly 2870's, 2871's. I've searched ebay and internet for china turbo options, unfortunately what I would really want doesn't exist, or I can't find it. I'm trying to find a standard t3 60 trim w/ a .48ar hotside, but I only see a t3 50trim and super 60's w/ a .63 hotside. I'd consider t3/t4 50 trim w/ a .48 hotside, but I think the godspeed gt2871 is a better choice. I did see a t28 on godspeeds website which you can buy cheaper on ebay, but it didn't list wheel specs. Just the inlet and outlet size and compressor ar and turbine ar.

thenuge26

iTrader: (2)

And this is the mystery of ebay.

Really it depends on my budget. If I buy a cheap house, I will get a real 2860 or an EFR. That way when I rebuild the motor and put in a decent bottom end down the road I won't need a new turbo (at least right away).


If I get a more expensive house I will look for a used turbo or a chinacharger, it just has to get me to ~230whp or whatever is save to run on the stock internals. Then I can get a bigger one when I rebuild.