DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 11-17-2006, 09:14 AM
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If a lot of you are like me, and from a lot of the posts i have read you are, i thiink you like getting a lot for your money. I was in Illinois this week visiting my father, who is a machinist that owns his own shop, and i was telling him all about my DIY project. I showed him some pictures, and he showed interest in making some parts. Who would be interested in buying OBX style manifolds, for the 1.6 or 1.8, that would fit a t25\28, 13g-19g, or a t3\t4, made from mild steel, and shipped out the door for $165, do you guys think i could sell very many?
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Old 11-17-2006, 09:24 AM
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can you post a pic up of the mani design? doesnt have to be all purrty, just to get an idea.
thats a low price, and i'd have to see quality first.
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Old 11-17-2006, 09:50 AM
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i'd do it if you could include a downpipe
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Old 11-17-2006, 09:57 AM
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Something like that maybe? Do you plan to angle the turbo in a similar fashion? Would he be totally agains't making it out of stainless just for durabilities sake? 1/2" flange? How about addition of an external WG Flange.
That's just my input as it would work best for my setup. I think you could sell a few for that price even if it was just to the people that need a replacement for their broken/cracked OBX one.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OBX-8...spagenameZWDVW
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Old 11-17-2006, 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Mach929
i'd do it if you could include a downpipe
Makes a good point. Unless the manifold is an exact replacement, downpipe fitment issues will result... Not that I don't have them already, but you know?

Still very interested in seeing what he can make. :Props

If he can make replacements like cjernigans link/MR stuff, he's in business.


Don't know how he plans to build them, but (when mine cracks) my vague notion is to reverse engineer the thing out of something better.
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Old 11-17-2006, 12:33 PM
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Agreed on the mani and DP as a set; if a guy has to build his own DP, he probably has the skills to make a mani as well.

If you could do man & 3" DP for $300, I think you could do it all day long. Hell, I'd probably buy one, and I've been planning to make my own.

'Course the issue with DPs is what turbine outlet: five bolt, conical, internal, external, blah blah blah.
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Old 11-17-2006, 12:47 PM
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Take no offense to this, but it would be difficult to get all the proper materials for under $100, shipping is at least $10-$20. And yes I understand your father is a machinist, so am I. Even machining his own flanges, that takes time and time is money. Certainly not trying to bash, but $165 for a well built manifold isn't possible if its done right.
-Michael-

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Old 11-17-2006, 01:38 PM
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There's the rub.

I say at least do one

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Old 11-17-2006, 02:56 PM
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What about a greddy replacement, that would be cheaper than the other offerings and came as a tubular mani.
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Old 11-17-2006, 05:35 PM
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I'd be happy with a log style manifold and 2.5" downpipe for $250 if it saves me the hassle of making it (have a TB0335, but planning on swapping housings for common T3 instead of chrystler crap).
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Old 11-17-2006, 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by TheBandit
Take no offense to this, but it would be difficult to get all the proper materials for under $100, shipping is at least $10-$20. And yes I understand your father is a machinist, so am I. Even machining his own flanges, that takes time and time is money. Certainly not trying to bash, but $165 for a well built manifold isn't possible if its done right.
-Michael-
If you are chinese it is... somehow, someway, they are doing it. And my cheap *** ghettochrome manifold seems to be holding so far. Yes, it's only a few days but normally they fail pretty quick.

Mark
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Old 11-17-2006, 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by TheBandit
Take no offense to this, but it would be difficult to get all the proper materials for under $100, shipping is at least $10-$20. And yes I understand your father is a machinist, so am I. Even machining his own flanges, that takes time and time is money. Certainly not trying to bash, but $165 for a well built manifold isn't possible if its done right.
-Michael-
FOr mild steel you were paying 100 for materials? you were getting hosed.

Bradley where is your dads shop?
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Old 11-17-2006, 06:21 PM
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My Megan racing stuff is still working. if it was of the same quality but better fitment than i would be in if mine failed
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Old 11-17-2006, 06:47 PM
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my plan was to do something exactly lile the link to the obx item on e-bay. But that only comes with one turbo flange style, i was going to offer like 3 differant turbo flange options, and i had considdered the down pipe combo. And michael, it is possible, and im sure i can do it, as a matter of fact i already have. I had considdered stainless as well.. the only cost differance for stainless would be for material.

if you guys give me an idea of what turbo's would be the best to match a manifold and down pipe, i think thats what i will do. I had planned on doing a 13g, 14b, 16g, 19g, style manifold, and possible the down pipe as well, so u could buy my parts, and then a used dsm turbo, and be good to go. i think a down pipe, and mani for 300 is possible.

What other turbo should i try and match.

as far as quallity goes, it will be mig welded, not tig, and the material will be sch 40 pipe, and weld els, and half inch flanges.
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Old 11-17-2006, 06:58 PM
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standard dsm is nice. the greddy guys would probably apreciate it as well, heck you might even move some t3 flanges. these are the most commen turbos
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Old 11-17-2006, 07:01 PM
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dsms!! t2 and t3, that should cover pretty much everything. I'm in favor of a dsm setup since that's really my roots with turbos. I've been waiting for someone to make a dsm manifold + downpipe combo. Bottom mount the turbo like factory dsms and be positioned lower to give the down pipe a straight shot
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Old 11-17-2006, 07:01 PM
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Hell yeah, if you could make a manifold that moves the turbo between cylinders 2 and 3, and include the downpipe that would be a true seller. I would for sure buy one.
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Old 11-17-2006, 07:06 PM
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the problem with moving the turbo lower or more forward comes in the install the oil drain is abit of a pita any way to get threaded right most of the time but i found taking of the compressor/chra helps alot, also there might be AC/PS conflicts as well that being said mine is in the midle 2-3 and i have ps/ac no problems so far.
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Old 11-17-2006, 07:39 PM
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Did not even think of that, but even on top would be great. Give more room for the dp so that it is not so hard to get a 3" dp in there.
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Old 11-17-2006, 07:40 PM
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I certainly prefer Stainless, but even for mild, $100 for all the flanges and tubes is hard to do unless you like to use cheap flanges. Certainly interested to see what you can pull off.
-Michael-
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