flyineunos

iTrader: (1)

hey guys.. ive had my 90% complete turbo kit sitting in my garage in a box for about 4 months now. All my friends have been bugging me and ive just been putting it off for 2 reasons.

reason #1: I need about 9 grade 8 or higher bolts/studs and the only place that i kno that has ARP bolts is Hillco. and thats in westminster.

reason #2: ive been deciding if i wanted to go piggy back or the standard fmu/1.8inj/msd timing retard box.


Can somebody help me source 9 grade 8+ bolts for the turbo(sr20 T25) to manifold(greddy manifold) and 5 grade 8+ bolts suitable for a custom downpipe?


and for my Engine management situation... can anyone recommend me a set up thats reliable for around 180-210 WHP? TIA!

neogenesis2004

iTrader: (12)

Call begi or FM and buy them from them. If you call today you should get them before the end of the week. As far as engine management, I'm biased toward a ecu piggyback/parallel/replacement over mechanical parts. But it looks like you already have all those parts anyway. They will get you to your power goals but you will run rich up top with them.

What lip is that on the miata in your avatar? Its too dark for me to make it out clearly.

flyineunos

iTrader: (1)

neogenesis2004

thanks for your quick response. the lip in my avatar is a carbon copy of the BSP lip.

If i were to call FM.. they could send me grade8+ bolts for my specific needs?

and for engine management.. i sold a lot of the stuff i had.. like the timing retarding box.

neogenesis2004

iTrader: (12)

im pretty positive they could, they sell turbo kits after all. I think they also have SS hardware if you are interested. Just give them a call to find out. You will get your answer fast!

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

Yup, just call Stephanie at Begi. She'll send you as many as you want... I think they were like .75cents each or something. Nuts are M8x1.25 and you can get them from her as well, or at any autoparts store.

VRTSid

if you in/near san diego you can get grade 8 stuff from marshalls way cheaper than most auto places.

if not begi would be the only place I would send moneys

PaKMaN

iTrader: (1)

I'm ordering from ARP

flyineunos

iTrader: (1)

pakman.. how are you ordering straight from ARP? could you please send me a link to the ones that you are buying?

flyineunos

iTrader: (1)

Oh, and can someone give me the number for begi/FM? thanks

neogenesis2004

iTrader: (12)

go on their respective websites

magnamx-5

iTrader: (7)

Ben

iTrader: (33)

FM is 800 FLY MX5S. Don't know BEGi's. Look it up lazy bastard!

flyineunos

iTrader: (1)

haha. sorry i was feeling a little bit lazy.

anyone have any input about the engine management?

has anyone hit 200whp SAFELY and RELIABLY without engine management?

Ben

iTrader: (33)

Depends on what your definition of engine management is. Can it be done with the stock ecu and piggyback fuel and timing control--YES. A BEGi FMU and BIPES can do it no problem. I hit 185rwhp at 9-10 psi with the BEGi FMU and Sebring and stock exhaust. 200 was a new downpipe away (or more boost). :gay:

flyineunos

iTrader: (1)

how about a vortech FMU 12:1 disc, MSD Timing retard box, 1.8injectors, and190lph fuel pump? would that be able to handle 200whp safely? If the begi fmu and the bipes can handle it A LOT better, then i can always switch to that. Just want to know if what i had/have is enough. thanks

greddymx5

iTrader: (1)

The 12:1 is used for 6psi... (150-160hp)
With 1.8 injectors maybe 7-8 psi...
Don't mess with these , it will cost you more then you want.

Get an begi afpr and a fp gauge.
A 190lph hp walbro.
O2 clamp (tricks ecu not to pull fuel at boost.)
Msd is nice, bipes is better...
As big of an exhaust you can get... 2.5inch=ideal
Don't forget clutch...Above 6psi youll need one.(ACT is good)

Adjust FP: youll need 6psi of fp for evey psi of boost.
So 6 psi boost = 36psi fp extra.

The base pressure: look a the fp gauge when idle. (32-37psi)
0psi pressure: easy: just unhook the oem fpr(end of fuelrail)(42-45psi)
So 42-45 is base pressure, on top of that you need 36 psi= 44+36=80psi.

The oem fuel pump can just manage that, thats why you don't need a fuelpump on a greddy base...

Anything above 6 youll need a bigger pump, a AFPR (BEGI)

But that is why a lot of people are running emanage blue...(250dollar)
It runs timing, fuel and is programmable.
You need bigger injectors (300-320cc) but there not so expencive..

flyineunos

iTrader: (1)

greddymx5

so according to your post...

instead of me wasting time and money on those fmus and afpr's,
i should just buy the emanage blue and some bigger injectors?

flyineunos

iTrader: (1)

Emanage Blue + Injectors FTW???

and just in case... what else would i need for this set up to work

Ben

iTrader: (33)

The MSD isn't as good as the BIPES, but for half price IMO it's fine. You'll need an intercooler with either.

12:1 is too aggressive of a ratio. If you have the vortec already, get a disk set. 5:1 or so is more appropriate. If you don't have the vortec now, get a BEGi FMU. Partnered with the 190 HP and 1.8s you'll have plenty of fuel.

I took the BEGi FMU and MSD to 185 on the dyno, but ultimately did get more power out of it by allowing a larger pressure bleed on the FMU, but never went back to the dyno. I was around 200 (estimated) on 9-10 psi w a 15g and stock exhaust to the axle.

VRTSid

Im no authority and my car isnt running yet, but thats what I did after going through this exact same stuff thats in this thread.

too me it makes more sense to go with an emanage. hard parts wise so far Ive installed my turbo kit and injectors. thats it and if Ive done my math right its good for my goals at 55psi fuel pressure and 330cc injectors.