1/4 mile - the eBay T3/T4 Chinacharger again
10-13-2009, 05:28 PM
#41
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It is SUPER hard to launch a bike. People look at the 1/4 mile times in the magazines and think that they can ride like a pro and hit the same numbers. A long time ago I think the magazines used Peewee Gleason to do the track tests. Kind of like hopping into Scott Pruett's car and expecting to turn the same lap times.
I've only launched bikes on the street. It resulted in wheelies or wheelspin and every single time it was slow and ugly.
If you look at the timeslip, the guy would have passed me at the stripe if he stayed in it. I think by the 1,000' mark he was just demoralized and let off. There is no way my car can stand up to a GSXR-750 unless an idiot is riding it.
I'll post up the burnout I did in my 1st gen RX-7 during a burnout contest, it'll make this burnout look like a 3rd gear chirp!
I put up some info on the local autox site as a primer. (you already know this, this is for any first timers) An excerpt:
My drag racing bro-in-law felt it necessary to remind me that burnouts are not for show. I agreed and told him that they are for fun!
I've only launched bikes on the street. It resulted in wheelies or wheelspin and every single time it was slow and ugly.
If you look at the timeslip, the guy would have passed me at the stripe if he stayed in it. I think by the 1,000' mark he was just demoralized and let off. There is no way my car can stand up to a GSXR-750 unless an idiot is riding it.
I put up some info on the local autox site as a primer. (you already know this, this is for any first timers) An excerpt:
Burnout:
-Unless you have over 1200whp, do not do a burnout past the start line.
-Unless you have a dedicated drag car do not drive straight through the water box. Drive around it then back up if you need to. Water on track = bad.
-Wait until the track official tells you to do your burnout - the secret signal is when he does twirly motions with his fingers like he's winding up the prop on a rubber band airplane.
I drive around the water, back up into the water box, spin the tires 1-2 revolutions just to get them wet then roll forward. I try not to splash water up into the wheel well. (in the video, note that they put water in the waterbox only AFTER I did my burnout) When they give the burnout signal I set the line lock and do a 2nd gear burnout. If I'm being an *** I'll shift to 3rd before releasing the line lock to see how long I can carry it out then slam on the brakes right before the staging lights. -Unless you have over 1200whp, do not do a burnout past the start line.
-Unless you have a dedicated drag car do not drive straight through the water box. Drive around it then back up if you need to. Water on track = bad.
-Wait until the track official tells you to do your burnout - the secret signal is when he does twirly motions with his fingers like he's winding up the prop on a rubber band airplane.
My drag racing bro-in-law felt it necessary to remind me that burnouts are not for show. I agreed and told him that they are for fun!
Last edited by dvcn; 10-13-2009 at 05:40 PM.
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10-14-2009, 10:39 AM
#45
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Absolutely it is hard, unless maybe you have a 20 foot swingarm on a slammed bike. On a normal sport bike, it is a fine line between bogging the launch, getting it just right (front tire just off the pavement) or back-flipping.
The back-flips do happen. I have seen one in person, and it is not pretty. The rider broke his foot.
The back-flips do happen. I have seen one in person, and it is not pretty. The rider broke his foot.
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10-14-2009, 10:45 AM
#46
dvcn
when you say corded do you mean the tires are shot? The mile per hour you have posted is enough to put you in the 11's. That is damn good. How tall is that tire, and what gear ratio are you running? What is your shift and max rpm? Have you ever considered running slicks?
when you say corded do you mean the tires are shot? The mile per hour you have posted is enough to put you in the 11's. That is damn good. How tall is that tire, and what gear ratio are you running? What is your shift and max rpm? Have you ever considered running slicks?
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10-16-2009, 12:08 AM
#48
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I'm thread jacking. It's ok right? Here are some half decent burnouts from the car I had prior to the miata.
The last segment is a burnout contest that I came in 2nd place. Maybe it's because I ground 2nd gear, who knows.
The last segment is a burnout contest that I came in 2nd place. Maybe it's because I ground 2nd gear, who knows.
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10-17-2009, 01:19 AM
#51
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Street port (mild compared to what the PR folks do) four port 13B, Holley 650DP (modified....), Racing Beat manifold, custom manifold spacer to convert to open plenum, full RB exhaust, RB aluminum flywheel, clutch and pp. Dual MSD 6AL's, direct fire/wasted spark to the leading spark plugs, trailing fired through distributor. 13.54@102mph
Shortblock cost $350 in parts to build. 1984 rotors and eccentric shaft, 1982ish side housings, 1976-78(?) rotor housings. Five apex seals at the minimum spec, one well below.
The motor was built just to run long enough to be the guinea pig for the future turbo setup. After minimal NA tuning it ran pretty well considering the quality of the parts. After severe abuse and shifting (and sometimes launching) at 9300rpms (made great power after 9500 but just felt bad spinning it that high with less than stock parts) one of the apex seals cracked. The turbo setup was never installed.
Could have rebuilt the motor within a couple of days but was demoralized. Sold all the turbo bits and parted the car out. Lost all self respect and bought a POS salvage title miata.
Not that anyone asked but there are two things I'm happy with. My stock 84 GSL-SE, 207k miles on the stock engine, tons of Racing Beat bolt ons and the ignition setup above - ran a 14.38@93mph.
With a stock S4 (1986) 13B installed and the same setup as above, car lightened to 2420lbs going down the track - ran a 13.96@97mph.
First night down the track in the miata gave a 17.02@80mph. Painful!
Shortblock cost $350 in parts to build. 1984 rotors and eccentric shaft, 1982ish side housings, 1976-78(?) rotor housings. Five apex seals at the minimum spec, one well below.
The motor was built just to run long enough to be the guinea pig for the future turbo setup. After minimal NA tuning it ran pretty well considering the quality of the parts. After severe abuse and shifting (and sometimes launching) at 9300rpms (made great power after 9500 but just felt bad spinning it that high with less than stock parts) one of the apex seals cracked. The turbo setup was never installed.
Could have rebuilt the motor within a couple of days but was demoralized. Sold all the turbo bits and parted the car out. Lost all self respect and bought a POS salvage title miata.
Not that anyone asked but there are two things I'm happy with. My stock 84 GSL-SE, 207k miles on the stock engine, tons of Racing Beat bolt ons and the ignition setup above - ran a 14.38@93mph.
With a stock S4 (1986) 13B installed and the same setup as above, car lightened to 2420lbs going down the track - ran a 13.96@97mph.
First night down the track in the miata gave a 17.02@80mph. Painful!
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