1/4 Mile Leader Board
12-18-2007, 08:31 PM
#21
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No clue what my WHP is. Haven't hit the dyno, I was going to wait untill after EMS but I may dyno it this spring before I change it up.
The last time I scaled it with the questionable drive on scale at my local dragstrip, I wieghed in at 2250lbs without me standing in it. Add 150lbs and thats my race wieght. I think I had some tools in the trunk but other than that it was empty.
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12-18-2007, 08:39 PM
#22
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I was also on Azenis when I shattered my Torsen. Azenis HOOK when warmed up right.
No clue what my WHP is. Haven't hit the dyno, I was going to wait untill after EMS but I may dyno it this spring before I change it up.
The last time I scaled it with the questionable drive on scale at my local dragstrip, I wieghed in at 2250lbs without me standing in it. Add 150lbs and thats my race wieght. I think I had some tools in the trunk but other than that it was empty.
No clue what my WHP is. Haven't hit the dyno, I was going to wait untill after EMS but I may dyno it this spring before I change it up.
The last time I scaled it with the questionable drive on scale at my local dragstrip, I wieghed in at 2250lbs without me standing in it. Add 150lbs and thats my race wieght. I think I had some tools in the trunk but other than that it was empty.
I guess 2250 could be reasonable with tools, gas, and a bunch of extra turbo parts in the car depending on what options you have. I should weigh my girlfriend's 1.6 car this weekend.
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12-18-2007, 11:56 PM
#23
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Far from stock spring rates, I'm on JIC Magic FLT-A2s, roughly 500ft.lbs/400ft.lbs or 11kg/9kg.
About that wieght, I should note that I removed AC/PS/CC, and all emissions equipment.
About that wieght, I should note that I removed AC/PS/CC, and all emissions equipment.
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12-20-2007, 02:49 AM
#25
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just check out his vids...he bogged the car with azenis!!!!...but 12.7 on a pretty much stock bolt on turbo kit is fast!!!...i know when i ran my miata my friends were talking smack that i would be lucky to even break into 13's...but apexonyou i just tried 110(friends left overs) and it feels like a whole different beast!!!
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12-20-2007, 01:41 PM
#26
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Get back to the track with 110oct now 
In the in-car videos I have up, I was launching low, maby 4500, and bogging. I think I launched at around 5200ish when I started pulling the 1.8s. Its hit or miss with my car.. Either its a really good run or its a really bad run (mainly because im missing a syncro now
)
In the in-car videos I have up, I was launching low, maby 4500, and bogging. I think I launched at around 5200ish when I started pulling the 1.8s. Its hit or miss with my car.. Either its a really good run or its a really bad run (mainly because im missing a syncro now
)
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01-17-2008, 06:23 PM
#27
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ApexOnYou- Try Import Wars in 2008
Hey ApexOnYou,
Have you considered joining the Great Lakes Dragaway Import Wars series of drag races. I hit four events last year and I am HOOKED! In fact I'm trying to sell my JSRC because I'm going turbo so that I can move up from Class D to Class C or B.
NoCrash
Have you considered joining the Great Lakes Dragaway Import Wars series of drag races. I hit four events last year and I am HOOKED! In fact I'm trying to sell my JSRC because I'm going turbo so that I can move up from Class D to Class C or B.
NoCrash
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01-18-2008, 02:36 AM
#28
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As a matter of fact, yes, I was planning on trying it out this year. I know nothing about the series though. How do they do classing? Its just bracket racing right? I briefly look on the GLD website but didn't find much info on it.
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01-18-2008, 05:46 PM
#29
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Import Wars
Man, I hope to see you there! If you go to GLD web site the Import Wars info is the third link on the left. This is how the classes work:
Class D is a bracket race for cars that run 15.00 sec et or slower in which all contestants enter their own dial-in time (this class is not for you).
Class C is a heads-up race class that has a 14.00 sec cap (13.99 and you lose).
Class B is a heads-up race with a 13.00 sec cap (maybe this is for you).
I'm not sure how the Quick-8 or Frantic-7 classes work.
You get a registration number at your first event that you use for the rest of the season. That number will be used in one class only (my class D number was D401). You get points for every round you win. The points add up to highest point winner at the end of the year. If you make it to any semi-final round and lose you get 50 bucks (it cost $45 to race in the series). If you make it to the final round and lose you get 100 bucks. Winner of the final round earns 200 bucks.
It is not about the money, but I made it to the semi-finals twice and did not give the money back! My car has a JSRC with a lot of up grades, torsen, 6 speed, JR cat-back, and has run a best et of 14.206. I raced the D class because you have to be able to run at least fast enough to brake out of you class (class b or c) to be competitive. My dial-in was usually 15.50 seconds and being able to run faster helped me catch-up quickly. I will be running a new turbo setup this year, so if you know someone interested in a one-year-old M45 point him or her my way! With a BEGi S3 and 3.63 gear I should be able to run in the high 12s, but I will race in class B, C, or both. Now for the deal closer, check out www.hondaddy.com video section. That’s me in the D class races.
NoCrash
Class D is a bracket race for cars that run 15.00 sec et or slower in which all contestants enter their own dial-in time (this class is not for you).
Class C is a heads-up race class that has a 14.00 sec cap (13.99 and you lose).
Class B is a heads-up race with a 13.00 sec cap (maybe this is for you).
I'm not sure how the Quick-8 or Frantic-7 classes work.
You get a registration number at your first event that you use for the rest of the season. That number will be used in one class only (my class D number was D401). You get points for every round you win. The points add up to highest point winner at the end of the year. If you make it to any semi-final round and lose you get 50 bucks (it cost $45 to race in the series). If you make it to the final round and lose you get 100 bucks. Winner of the final round earns 200 bucks.
It is not about the money, but I made it to the semi-finals twice and did not give the money back! My car has a JSRC with a lot of up grades, torsen, 6 speed, JR cat-back, and has run a best et of 14.206. I raced the D class because you have to be able to run at least fast enough to brake out of you class (class b or c) to be competitive. My dial-in was usually 15.50 seconds and being able to run faster helped me catch-up quickly. I will be running a new turbo setup this year, so if you know someone interested in a one-year-old M45 point him or her my way! With a BEGi S3 and 3.63 gear I should be able to run in the high 12s, but I will race in class B, C, or both. Now for the deal closer, check out www.hondaddy.com video section. That’s me in the D class races.
NoCrash
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01-18-2008, 06:41 PM
#30
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I've really been wanting to start racing competitively at the drag strip, maby this is the answer. I was meaning to head out there for real street drags last season but never made it out. I'm expecting to be mid 12s at the beginning of the season, so maby I would be in one of those last two classes. Quick 8? They just sound like they would be for cars running alot faster than me..
:edit: I watched the vids and I don't see anyone in the 12s. Quick 8 is 11s and B is 13s. Maby I'll just have to call GLD when they open and ask them. Their website doesn't give much info on the breakdown, I actually learned more from your post than on their site.
:edit: I watched the vids and I don't see anyone in the 12s. Quick 8 is 11s and B is 13s. Maby I'll just have to call GLD when they open and ask them. Their website doesn't give much info on the breakdown, I actually learned more from your post than on their site.
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05-19-2008, 10:51 AM
#31
i went to the track Friday night here in hot *** las Vegas this is what i ran at 12psi of boost
(RT) .383
(60) 2.244
(330) 6.126
(1/8) 9.341 (mph) 80.24
(1000) 12.047
(1/4) 14.278
(mph) 103.35
that was a **** launch i left at 3500,rpm and fell on it face
next run i broke the rear end which was a 94 lsd
i have a open diff in my car now and waiting on a new rear end before i go back to the track
i didnt slip the clutch enough will do better next time for sure
i was using bfg drag radials 205,50,14's crazy grip
seth
(RT) .383
(60) 2.244
(330) 6.126
(1/8) 9.341 (mph) 80.24
(1000) 12.047
(1/4) 14.278
(mph) 103.35
that was a **** launch i left at 3500,rpm and fell on it face
next run i broke the rear end which was a 94 lsd
i have a open diff in my car now and waiting on a new rear end before i go back to the track
i didnt slip the clutch enough will do better next time for sure
i was using bfg drag radials 205,50,14's crazy grip
seth
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05-19-2008, 05:15 PM
#37
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I made 17 passes down the quarter Sunday at US 41 in Indiana (most where just practice launches for reaction time then cruise the rest of the way). The best time was at 14 Lb of boost using a BEGI S3 w/Xede on 1996.
R.T. .1521 (sucks)
60ft 2.0149 (205-40/17 all seasons! - don't want to break the torsen)
330ft 5.5349
1/8 ET 8.4439
1/8 mph 85.86
1000ft 10.9357
1/4 ET 13.0289
1/4 mph 109.23
Getting ready for Import Wars 2. Apex, are you going to make it to IW-2 on this Sunday?
R.T. .1521 (sucks)
60ft 2.0149 (205-40/17 all seasons! - don't want to break the torsen)
330ft 5.5349
1/8 ET 8.4439
1/8 mph 85.86
1000ft 10.9357
1/4 ET 13.0289
1/4 mph 109.23
Getting ready for Import Wars 2. Apex, are you going to make it to IW-2 on this Sunday?
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05-19-2008, 06:22 PM
#38
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I JUST got my car back on the road two days ago. I have a rough tune and it should be straightened out enough to make some fun run passes this weekend but I'm not ready for IW just yet. I'll at least figure out what time I should be grouped for.
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