2560 on a 99 motor at 14psi with MSPNP 300hp - 241ft/lbs
#81
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It's all personal preference. The stock coils are fairly strong, so from a 'performance per dollar' standpoint you shouldn't change anything. If I were going to mess with it, I'd rather go CDI than COP. The 4-channel system can be used for 2-channel if you don't know which direction you are going to go. But I don't think the 4-channel system has the arm/disarm ability, only the MAP sensor (which would work fine really, I'm just a control freak).
I for one currently use a knocksense sensor and I'm not satisfied with the results so I'm ready to ask more stupid questions
Thanks,
Rafa
#82
I agree that this needs to be in it's own thread (sorry Paul). I'll refrain from further tangents in this one, but a search would dig it up anyway. I don't think I have much more I can add, but feel free to copy/paste this stuff into a new thread and I'll keep an eye on it if it interests anyone.
#83
Hmmm, so it's still not really an analog signal? Weird weird.
What I'm looking for is an RPM dependent threshold. Maybe I could run the knock sensor output through a digital pot. Seems a bit of a hack, though.... Timing it well makes sense, and might actually be all you need. The knock itself doesn't get louder, only the background noise...
You could link to a new thread from this one, get people to notice it. :-) I don't have any problems with my Toyota COP set up, and I've bought those for as low as $15/ea. Cheaper than keeping the stock ones since the first time you buy plug wires you're over the cost of cheap COP....
What I'm looking for is an RPM dependent threshold. Maybe I could run the knock sensor output through a digital pot. Seems a bit of a hack, though.... Timing it well makes sense, and might actually be all you need. The knock itself doesn't get louder, only the background noise...
I agree that this needs to be in it's own thread (sorry Paul). I'll refrain from further tangents in this one, but a search would dig it up anyway. I don't think I have much more I can add, but feel free to copy/paste this stuff into a new thread and I'll keep an eye on it if it interests anyone.
#84
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Paul, you have changed your sig. Can you repost your setup for this dyno? I'm specifically interested in what injectors you are running. I will be running a 00 engine w/ a 2560r in my car as well and am curious about injector headroom.
#92
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I would have thought the 70mm (?) "mustang" throttlebody would affect driveability but I am pretty sure he felt no difference.
I felt a big difference between the '94 progressive throttle linkage throttle body and the newer style wheel/linear OEM throttle body.
I felt a big difference between the '94 progressive throttle linkage throttle body and the newer style wheel/linear OEM throttle body.
#94
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the only things changed from the 271 pull in Dec and the 300 pull in April were the BEGi turbo intake manifold & 70mm throttle body and the bigger injectors. the injectors can be eliminated from the equation since my AFR's were great in both scenarios.
the car idles perfectly with the bigger throttle body with no idle air controller and the the driveability is great. it's smooth, easy to control, no different than with the factory intake mani and throttlebody
My hard rev limit is set to 7200 rpm so you must be thinking of a different car.
#99
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Paul's car was definitely not reved to 8k, you must be thinking of someone else. I dunno who.
With two GT1548's. But it doesn't matter; what I'm taking about is right off idle. For me it was much more difficult to be smooth right off idle with the linear linkage.