Soviet Era Car, Space Age Turbo. EFR 6758
10-15-2012, 03:11 PM
#61
I thought timing latency had to do with your overall hardware, eg. sensors, igniters, coils! Doesn't matter now since you can't check it!
Where is your 36-1 mounted and how? I am looking to do something on my ATI pulley and seen some 36 tooth wheels I am thinking about mounting on the front (sorry for the thread-jacking!)
Where is your 36-1 mounted and how? I am looking to do something on my ATI pulley and seen some 36 tooth wheels I am thinking about mounting on the front (sorry for the thread-jacking!)
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10-15-2012, 03:16 PM
#62
I thought timing latency had to do with your overall hardware, eg. sensors, igniters, coils! Doesn't matter now since you can't check it!
Where is your 36-1 mounted and how? I am looking to do something on my ATI pulley and seen some 36 tooth wheels I am thinking about mounting on the front (sorry for the thread-jacking!)
Where is your 36-1 mounted and how? I am looking to do something on my ATI pulley and seen some 36 tooth wheels I am thinking about mounting on the front (sorry for the thread-jacking!)
https://www.miataturbo.net/ecus-tuni...1-wheel-64544/
I revved the engine a bit and the timing mark didn't "walk". So I assume its not going anywhere I don't need the latency settings.
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10-15-2012, 03:17 PM
#63
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Nope, haven't checked and already took off timing plastic plate thingy. Timing latency is only an issue if you're using a CAS for primary tach signal. Stretchy timing belt and all.
I revved the engine a bit and the timing mark didn't "walk". So I assume its not going anywhere I don't need the latency settings.
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10-15-2012, 03:21 PM
#64
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Why does this matter Scott? Please tell, I am ignorant. Does it basically mean that your timing can be more advanced at higher RPM than you think?
Also, if anyone wants to see the timing map that was used for the 400hp pull, it is in Soviet's build thread. Add two degrees to it in boost. I asked for critical feedback, and nobody had jack **** to say. Maybe people will care now :b
Also, if anyone wants to see the timing map that was used for the 400hp pull, it is in Soviet's build thread. Add two degrees to it in boost. I asked for critical feedback, and nobody had jack **** to say. Maybe people will care now :b
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10-15-2012, 03:52 PM
#68
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Pay for material and I will build you a manifold and downpipe.
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10-15-2012, 04:39 PM
#73
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im focused more on getting a new DD...then maybe ill reevaluate the current miata. but im tired of spending money on car and wrenching. i do enjoy just driving it. Maybe 18psi will build an EFR setup and sell it instantly...
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10-15-2012, 04:50 PM
#74
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Stretchy timing belts cause JITTER, which means that if you hold the RPM (and requested advance) steady, the timing mark will be jumping around erratically across maybe a +/- 5° range of where it's supposed to be. Jitter is mostly caused by mechanical slop.
Latency, by comparison, describes the electrical delay in the various parts of the system. Mostly, this is the delay between the time that the crank (or cam) sensor passes a tooth and the time that the CPU actually registers this change. It is caused primarily by the analog filtering circuitry (resistors and capacitors) which we use to filter out noise and prevent false triggers. These inherently add some delay to the circuit, which is fixed in length.
Thus, latency is mostly a factor of what sort of sensors you are using and how they are electrically decoded within the ECU. Latency is not affected by how the sensors are mechanically arranged or driven. A circuit which has a latency of 100us is ALWAYS going to have a latency of 100us, regardless of how loose or tight the timing belt it, how accurately machined the teeth on the crankwheel are, etc.
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10-22-2012, 03:40 PM
#78
Was just browsing Facebook and saw this post from full-race
Overlayed with my dyno...
suck my dick
"We had 2 customers recently do identical builds. 9:1 SR20DETs with 264 S2 HKS cams, Greddy plenums, GT3076R turbos One was on a log manifold and .63 a/r T3 (Green line), the other was on a twin scroll Full-Race kit and 0.82 a/r (Red line). Both cars at 1.25 bar The log car was actually running a tad leaner and with better coils... still a landslide.
Martin
Martin
Overlayed with my dyno...
suck my dick
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