emu & wideband, wiring & set up?
#1
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Location: Melboure australia
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emu & wideband, wiring & set up?
hey guys i finally got my p&p harness, the emu is in the car & runs like a dream, ive put 3 deg of timing in it & no pinging yet (although i cant log timing as its greyed out) & played around with the settings & it seams to be doing great so far.
im ready to plug in the wide band & see how that all works....
i bought this wideband http://wbo2.com/2j/default.htm but am unsure of the wiring diagram they have set out for it (mid page) all the figures are just too much for me can you guys confirm what wires i need & where they fit into the system ?????
# BLACK
GROUND - Provides a ground return for Vbatt, and a ground reference for NBsim, WBlin-, etc. Also internally connected to the SHIELD wire.
ground
# BROWN
USR 1 - A 0-5v Analog channel for logging sensors such as MAP & TPS.
is this only for logging or do i need to connect it? if so i can use the greddy map yes?
# RED
USR 2 - As per USR 2, values appear in the RS232 frame generated by the 2J1 unit.
same as above
# ORANGE
LSS Tx - An optional Low Speed Serial output (1200 baud), for connection to a future intelligent display, not currently activated in firmware.
guessing i dont need this as i dont have a display
# YELLOW
Vbatt - Provides battery voltage to remote 12 volt sensors or displays.
12v out
# GREEN
WBlin- - Ground reference for WBlin+, should be tied to GND or close to GND as it affects WBlin+ if left floating.
another ground?
# BLUE
WBlin+ - 10bit PWM-sourced Differential Wideband output.
to the emu?
# VIOLET
NBsim - 10bit PWM-sourced programmable output, used for Narrowband sensor simulation.
can i use my wide band sensor & run this wire instead of my narrow band into the std ecu & only run the 1 o2? that would save welding in a second bung
# PINK
RPM - 12 volt compatible (COIL style) RPM pickup for logging engine revolutions.
ummmmm for coil only ignition (or can i use on mine)???
# WHITE
PULSE - 5 volt PULSE input for logging an additional pulse input, intended for Vehicle Speed Sensors.
does the mx have a speed sensor?
im guessing the "analog in" wire is the one that i would connect for the emu ... is that right?
sorry to be a pain guys
also, if i connect the o2 clamp now will it be ok (still running n/a)
cheers
Zoran
im ready to plug in the wide band & see how that all works....
i bought this wideband http://wbo2.com/2j/default.htm but am unsure of the wiring diagram they have set out for it (mid page) all the figures are just too much for me can you guys confirm what wires i need & where they fit into the system ?????
# BLACK
GROUND - Provides a ground return for Vbatt, and a ground reference for NBsim, WBlin-, etc. Also internally connected to the SHIELD wire.
ground
# BROWN
USR 1 - A 0-5v Analog channel for logging sensors such as MAP & TPS.
is this only for logging or do i need to connect it? if so i can use the greddy map yes?
# RED
USR 2 - As per USR 2, values appear in the RS232 frame generated by the 2J1 unit.
same as above
# ORANGE
LSS Tx - An optional Low Speed Serial output (1200 baud), for connection to a future intelligent display, not currently activated in firmware.
guessing i dont need this as i dont have a display
# YELLOW
Vbatt - Provides battery voltage to remote 12 volt sensors or displays.
12v out
# GREEN
WBlin- - Ground reference for WBlin+, should be tied to GND or close to GND as it affects WBlin+ if left floating.
another ground?
# BLUE
WBlin+ - 10bit PWM-sourced Differential Wideband output.
to the emu?
# VIOLET
NBsim - 10bit PWM-sourced programmable output, used for Narrowband sensor simulation.
can i use my wide band sensor & run this wire instead of my narrow band into the std ecu & only run the 1 o2? that would save welding in a second bung
# PINK
RPM - 12 volt compatible (COIL style) RPM pickup for logging engine revolutions.
ummmmm for coil only ignition (or can i use on mine)???
# WHITE
PULSE - 5 volt PULSE input for logging an additional pulse input, intended for Vehicle Speed Sensors.
does the mx have a speed sensor?
im guessing the "analog in" wire is the one that i would connect for the emu ... is that right?
sorry to be a pain guys
also, if i connect the o2 clamp now will it be ok (still running n/a)
cheers
Zoran
Last edited by sprx3; 09-16-2007 at 10:51 AM.
#2
Boost Pope
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Location: Chicago. (The less-murder part.)
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You need three wires.
Yellow (Vbatt) should connect to the same +12 supply as your EMU.
Black (GND) should connect to the same ground as your EMU.
Brown (USR1) should connect to one of the two OPTION inputs on the front panel of the EMU, using the optional AFR input cable that you remembered to buy when you ordered your EMU. This is the actual sensor signal from the WBO2 to the EMU.
It sounds like you should connect your PC to the WBO2 first and make sure that the USR1 output is properly calibrated. Set it for 0v = 10:1 AFR, 5v=20:1 AFR. This is a common range.
Yellow (Vbatt) should connect to the same +12 supply as your EMU.
Black (GND) should connect to the same ground as your EMU.
Brown (USR1) should connect to one of the two OPTION inputs on the front panel of the EMU, using the optional AFR input cable that you remembered to buy when you ordered your EMU. This is the actual sensor signal from the WBO2 to the EMU.
It sounds like you should connect your PC to the WBO2 first and make sure that the USR1 output is properly calibrated. Set it for 0v = 10:1 AFR, 5v=20:1 AFR. This is a common range.
#3
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Location: atlanta-ish
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agree w/ Joe w/ the exception that it looks like WB analog out is BLUE not BROWN. I think you hook BROWN to an external sensor so you can datalog the external sensor's value with your a/f and rpm.
#6
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Melboure australia
Posts: 165
Total Cats: 0
Hey guys first problem. My cooling fans dont work. Discovered this in peak hour traffic going to the silver chair and powder finger concert. Does anyone know where to find the fix? Im sure i saw it somewhere but its a little hard to find On my mobile phone and start work at 5am :( so wont be getting on my laptop until i get some sleep
Last edited by sprx3; 09-19-2007 at 07:38 AM.
#10
Boost Pope
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Location: Chicago. (The less-murder part.)
Posts: 33,017
Total Cats: 6,587
First off- people, please put the year of your car in your signature. It's a real pain having to search back through a bunch of old posts to the one place where you said what kind of car it was several days or weeks ago. Many of us around here suffer from CRS disorder.
Sprx- in your '99, the engine cooling fan (not the A/C fan) is normally controlled by the stock ECU. The relay is driven by a Red/Green wire at pin 1R on the ECU. Has this wire been hijacked and run to the EMU? If so, what pin has it been connected to?
On an unrelated note, I question the advice provided above concerning JP14. That is for the intake air temp sensor. Putting the jumper at position 1-2 places a 5 volt pullup on the line. This is correct if you are using a separate temperature sensor dedicated to the EMU. It is not correct if you have spliced into the factory IAT sensor. The stock ECU is already applying a pullup on this line, and doing so at the EMU as well is going to bias the line artificially high.
Sprx- in your '99, the engine cooling fan (not the A/C fan) is normally controlled by the stock ECU. The relay is driven by a Red/Green wire at pin 1R on the ECU. Has this wire been hijacked and run to the EMU? If so, what pin has it been connected to?
On an unrelated note, I question the advice provided above concerning JP14. That is for the intake air temp sensor. Putting the jumper at position 1-2 places a 5 volt pullup on the line. This is correct if you are using a separate temperature sensor dedicated to the EMU. It is not correct if you have spliced into the factory IAT sensor. The stock ECU is already applying a pullup on this line, and doing so at the EMU as well is going to bias the line artificially high.
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