emu questions
08-07-2007, 10:34 AM
#21
Boost Pope
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When a knock sensor is used, it is connected to one of these two lines, so you lose that function. I assume that this simply indicates whether the indicated wires are spliced into the vehicle harness, or brought out seperately.
Air & Water would be considered the "normal" configuration IMHO. Should you ever decide to run knock, it would be a simple affair to cut the wire for the air temp line and wire it to the knock sensor instead.
I will qualify all this by saying that I've never actually seen or touched a BS harness, and I have heard mixed reviews about them. Some have had good luck with them and say that they are truly plug-n-play, others have claimed to find pins miswired although I've never heard anyone go into specific detail on this.
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08-09-2007, 09:36 PM
#22
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Hey guys, ive just ordered my air & water bs loom, should have it in a week, i'll look at installing it with the new 550cc injectors N/A just to see if it all works by then put the rest in 
will keep you all posted, oh im not sure if the software is included with the emu that i bought .... any tips???
will keep you all posted, oh im not sure if the software is included with the emu that i bought .... any tips???
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08-10-2007, 01:20 PM
#23
Boost Pope
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Build 2.13 isn't even on Greddy's support page yet. I don't know what it includes- they've always been very poor about revision history notes.
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08-16-2007, 10:54 AM
#25
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hey guys, im now the new owner of a emu as it arrived in the mail today...
i didnt get the usb cable for it & have ordered this from mohdparts
* E-manage Ultimate USB Cable (Generic Brand, 6 ft) ONLY $5*
* This cable connects between your PC and the e-manage ultimate
* This cable is included with your e-manage ultimate if you bought your main unit from us
my next question is will i also need this for the wide band or can i make one up???
# E-manage Ultimate Air/Fuel input Harness #15900912 ONLY $25*
# This harness is used to feed the air/fuel signal from your wideband brain to the e-manage ultimate.
& do i leave the jumper settings as they are?
i havent got the turbo kit yet :( 2 weeks & counting) so im thinking of putting in the emu with the 550cc injectors to see if it all works fine, any tips?
also ive looked at the dual fuel feed rail should i do this mod for low boost or not worry about it...
& last but not least fuel pump, will i have any issues with it on low boost"? & when should i start worrying about it? (boost wise)
thanks in advance
Zoran
i didnt get the usb cable for it & have ordered this from mohdparts
* E-manage Ultimate USB Cable (Generic Brand, 6 ft) ONLY $5*
* This cable connects between your PC and the e-manage ultimate
* This cable is included with your e-manage ultimate if you bought your main unit from us
my next question is will i also need this for the wide band or can i make one up???
# E-manage Ultimate Air/Fuel input Harness #15900912 ONLY $25*
# This harness is used to feed the air/fuel signal from your wideband brain to the e-manage ultimate.
& do i leave the jumper settings as they are?
i havent got the turbo kit yet :( 2 weeks & counting) so im thinking of putting in the emu with the 550cc injectors to see if it all works fine, any tips?
also ive looked at the dual fuel feed rail should i do this mod for low boost or not worry about it...
& last but not least fuel pump, will i have any issues with it on low boost"? & when should i start worrying about it? (boost wise)
thanks in advance
Zoran
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08-16-2007, 10:02 PM
#26
Boost Pope
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You didn't have a spare USB cable anywhere? Oh well...
A/F harness and MAP harness: You can use the four-pin audio cable that connects CD-ROM drives to sound cards. Slice off one pin. Cheap, though it does not properly latch into the EMU socket. But if you didn't have a spare USB cable you probably don't have two of these either.
Jumper settings vary by year. Read the manual. Ask if you have specific questions. But yes, installing the EMU well prior to the turbo is a good idea. I suggest you install the EMU and sensors first, then drive. Then the injectors, then drive. Last is the turbo.
Forget the duel feed fuel rail.
Also, forget the fuel pump. With 440/550cc injectors, you simply don't need a new one. The only people who do are those running very high fuel pressure with AFPRs, instead of big injectors.
If you don't have a Mazda factory service manual with the complete wiring diagrams, buy one. Not Chiltons, not Haynes, Mazda. It's $100 and worth every penny.
A/F harness and MAP harness: You can use the four-pin audio cable that connects CD-ROM drives to sound cards. Slice off one pin. Cheap, though it does not properly latch into the EMU socket. But if you didn't have a spare USB cable you probably don't have two of these either.
Jumper settings vary by year. Read the manual. Ask if you have specific questions. But yes, installing the EMU well prior to the turbo is a good idea. I suggest you install the EMU and sensors first, then drive. Then the injectors, then drive. Last is the turbo.
Forget the duel feed fuel rail.
Also, forget the fuel pump. With 440/550cc injectors, you simply don't need a new one. The only people who do are those running very high fuel pressure with AFPRs, instead of big injectors.
If you don't have a Mazda factory service manual with the complete wiring diagrams, buy one. Not Chiltons, not Haynes, Mazda. It's $100 and worth every penny.
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08-17-2007, 07:49 AM
#27
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You didn't have a spare USB cable anywhere? Oh well...
A/F harness and MAP harness: You can use the four-pin audio cable that connects CD-ROM drives to sound cards. Slice off one pin. Cheap, though it does not properly latch into the EMU socket. But if you didn't have a spare USB cable you probably don't have two of these either.
Jumper settings vary by year. Read the manual. Ask if you have specific questions. But yes, installing the EMU well prior to the turbo is a good idea. I suggest you install the EMU and sensors first, then drive. Then the injectors, then drive. Last is the turbo.
Forget the duel feed fuel rail.
Also, forget the fuel pump. With 440/550cc injectors, you simply don't need a new one. The only people who do are those running very high fuel pressure with AFPRs, instead of big injectors.
If you don't have a Mazda factory service manual with the complete wiring diagrams, buy one. Not Chiltons, not Haynes, Mazda. It's $100 and worth every penny.
A/F harness and MAP harness: You can use the four-pin audio cable that connects CD-ROM drives to sound cards. Slice off one pin. Cheap, though it does not properly latch into the EMU socket. But if you didn't have a spare USB cable you probably don't have two of these either.
Jumper settings vary by year. Read the manual. Ask if you have specific questions. But yes, installing the EMU well prior to the turbo is a good idea. I suggest you install the EMU and sensors first, then drive. Then the injectors, then drive. Last is the turbo.
Forget the duel feed fuel rail.
Also, forget the fuel pump. With 440/550cc injectors, you simply don't need a new one. The only people who do are those running very high fuel pressure with AFPRs, instead of big injectors.
If you don't have a Mazda factory service manual with the complete wiring diagrams, buy one. Not Chiltons, not Haynes, Mazda. It's $100 and worth every penny.
i thought that they were different, must be getting emu & emb stuff confused :(
ok going through the jumpers now
for 1.8l nb (98-01)
jp1 - open to trim & add fuel
jp2 - open to trim & add fuel
jp3 - open to trim & add fuel
jp4 - open to trim & add fuel
jp5 - open to trim & add fuel
jp6 - open to trim & add fuel
jp7 - 1-2 for normal ignition signal ???
jp8 - 1-2 for 5v system ???
jp9 - 1-2 for mazda hot wire type system ???
jp10 - open ? airflow signal input2/ vtec output
(this jumper will configure the unit for vehicle with 2 airflow meters or for honda to control vtec. set to 1-2 for gtr & 2-3 for vtec)
jp11 - open ? or is this for the greddy pressure sensor???
jp12 - spare or wide band???
jp13 - (knock signal) open for normal type ???
jp14 - 14 (same as above) ?
jp15 - rpm signal 1-2
jp16 - (frequency input) open for karman airflow meter ??
jp17 - same as above??
jp18 - open
jp19 - (injector signal CH-A) ?????
jp20 - same as above????
ok, so no need for fuel pump or fpr
Joe u are the emu king
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08-18-2007, 11:35 AM
#28
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...
There are several things you have to do to enable this.
First, go to Parameters, switch to the Throttle tab and set up your throttle position sensor. Ensure that it is working properly.
Next, still in Parameters, go to the A/F Target tab. Set the Affected Map to I/J 1, set Throttle Position to, say, 25% or so, and accept the defaults.
Next, still in Parameters, go to Map Select, and check the A/F Target box.
Next, still in Parameters, go to Front Panel, and ensure that your A/F Meter and Pressure sensor is properly configured. Also, examine the DIP SWITCH settings to see if I/J 1 is presently set on any of them. If it is, make sure that dip switch is on.
Close Parameters.
On the left side of the screen you now have an A/F Target map. I suggest that you scale this map the same as I/J 1. From the drop-down window, select Pressure Sensor.
The way this works is that anytime the conditions you set in the A/F Target tab of parameters are met (temperature, throttle position, time since start) the EMU will look at whatever AFR value you have put into a given cell, compare it to actual AFR, and adjust I/J 1 to try and achieve this value.
You DO NOT want A/F Target to be running while the ECU is in closed-loop mode. So for all pressure values below atmospheric, enter "-" (that's a hyphen or minus symbol, ASCII character 0x2D). On US keyboards, it's the non-shifted character between 0 and =. On a Dutch keyboard, I think it is the character all the way at the lower-right (next to the right-shift key) where = is the shifter character on the same key. DO NOT enter 14.7, zero, etc.
In the boosted cells, enter your target value. In my table, I start at 13.5 at atmo, and scale down to 11.5 at full boost.
There are several things you have to do to enable this.
First, go to Parameters, switch to the Throttle tab and set up your throttle position sensor. Ensure that it is working properly.
Next, still in Parameters, go to the A/F Target tab. Set the Affected Map to I/J 1, set Throttle Position to, say, 25% or so, and accept the defaults.
Next, still in Parameters, go to Map Select, and check the A/F Target box.
Next, still in Parameters, go to Front Panel, and ensure that your A/F Meter and Pressure sensor is properly configured. Also, examine the DIP SWITCH settings to see if I/J 1 is presently set on any of them. If it is, make sure that dip switch is on.
Close Parameters.
On the left side of the screen you now have an A/F Target map. I suggest that you scale this map the same as I/J 1. From the drop-down window, select Pressure Sensor.
The way this works is that anytime the conditions you set in the A/F Target tab of parameters are met (temperature, throttle position, time since start) the EMU will look at whatever AFR value you have put into a given cell, compare it to actual AFR, and adjust I/J 1 to try and achieve this value.
You DO NOT want A/F Target to be running while the ECU is in closed-loop mode. So for all pressure values below atmospheric, enter "-" (that's a hyphen or minus symbol, ASCII character 0x2D). On US keyboards, it's the non-shifted character between 0 and =. On a Dutch keyboard, I think it is the character all the way at the lower-right (next to the right-shift key) where = is the shifter character on the same key. DO NOT enter 14.7, zero, etc.
In the boosted cells, enter your target value. In my table, I start at 13.5 at atmo, and scale down to 11.5 at full boost.
Update; I can log watertemp and MAP, so that should be alright. I'm very confused now...
Last edited by MX5Kuro; 08-18-2007 at 01:23 PM.
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08-19-2007, 01:11 AM
#29
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Emu
hello crowd
first of all i would like to thank JOE for all the great info the guy has offered here. just bought my EMU and am trying to read up on it before installing. I already noticed one mistake which was getting the air and knock input on the bloomslang harness. I have a stock 01 mx5 and tried installing the EMU the other day and the car just would not start, it cranks but no start. I changed one jumper on the board, which is JP9 Airflow input/output signal i set it according to the book which was 1-2. otherwise i did the best to my knowledge on the parameter settings by inserting the values. I am wondering if anyone had a similar problem with this install. do i need to change more Jumper settings? The car will be turbocharged soon but i want to make sure i am able to use the EMU beforehand. please help if you can and if you need more info you can contact me. Thanks to all the guys that make this possible.
-jasko
first of all i would like to thank JOE for all the great info the guy has offered here. just bought my EMU and am trying to read up on it before installing. I already noticed one mistake which was getting the air and knock input on the bloomslang harness. I have a stock 01 mx5 and tried installing the EMU the other day and the car just would not start, it cranks but no start. I changed one jumper on the board, which is JP9 Airflow input/output signal i set it according to the book which was 1-2. otherwise i did the best to my knowledge on the parameter settings by inserting the values. I am wondering if anyone had a similar problem with this install. do i need to change more Jumper settings? The car will be turbocharged soon but i want to make sure i am able to use the EMU beforehand. please help if you can and if you need more info you can contact me. Thanks to all the guys that make this possible.
-jasko
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08-19-2007, 04:27 AM
#30
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Jumper settings
These are my jumpersettings:
jp1 - open to trim & add fuel
jp2 - open to trim & add fuel
jp3 - open to trim & add fuel
jp4 - open to trim & add fuel
jp5 - open to trim & add fuel
jp6 - open to trim & add fuel
jp7 - 1-2 for normal ignition signal
jp8 - 1-2 for 5v system
jp9 - 1-2 for mazda hot wire type system
jp10 - open
jp11 - open
jp12 - open
jp13 - 1-2 for water temp
jp14 - open for knock sensor
jp15 - 1-2 normal rpm signal
jp16 - open for karman input
jp17 - 1-2 for karman output
jp18 - open
jp19 - 1-2 injector signal channel A
jp20 - 1-2 injector signal channel B
jp1 - open to trim & add fuel
jp2 - open to trim & add fuel
jp3 - open to trim & add fuel
jp4 - open to trim & add fuel
jp5 - open to trim & add fuel
jp6 - open to trim & add fuel
jp7 - 1-2 for normal ignition signal
jp8 - 1-2 for 5v system
jp9 - 1-2 for mazda hot wire type system
jp10 - open
jp11 - open
jp12 - open
jp13 - 1-2 for water temp
jp14 - open for knock sensor
jp15 - 1-2 normal rpm signal
jp16 - open for karman input
jp17 - 1-2 for karman output
jp18 - open
jp19 - 1-2 injector signal channel A
jp20 - 1-2 injector signal channel B
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08-19-2007, 05:14 AM
#31
your miata is a 99 right? set jumper 8 to 2-3, 12V system. 99 miata's run on a 12V system. if you use the 5V, youll fry the coilpacks. i was lucky to buy the EMU used, coming from a honda guy, he used the 12V system, and i didnt bother to change my jumper on that, but the car runs perfectly (besides the fans not turning on) read up on that, theres somewhere on yahoo groups about wiring up op-amps to make everything better.
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08-19-2007, 05:31 AM
#32
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your miata is a 99 right? set jumper 8 to 2-3, 12V system. 99 miata's run on a 12V system. if you use the 5V, youll fry the coilpacks. i was lucky to buy the EMU used, coming from a honda guy, he used the 12V system, and i didnt bother to change my jumper on that, but the car runs perfectly (besides the fans not turning on) read up on that, theres somewhere on yahoo groups about wiring up op-amps to make everything better.
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08-19-2007, 10:03 AM
#33
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can someone hook me up with a link to the yahoo groups??? also whats this about fans???
has everyone got the auto tune running?
4sfed5 said that autotune will only run with a greddy wideband....
i figure as long as you set the parameters up it would work with any wideband...
oh & do i need to use an o2 clamp or will my greddy pressure sensor do the same job?
can someone please confirm?
has everyone got the auto tune running?
4sfed5 said that autotune will only run with a greddy wideband....
i figure as long as you set the parameters up it would work with any wideband...
oh & do i need to use an o2 clamp or will my greddy pressure sensor do the same job?
can someone please confirm?
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08-21-2007, 11:46 PM
#34
boost pressure sensor question
Hello
I have found this boost pressure sensor on ebay and am wondering if anyone knows if it can be used with the EMU? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...148322010&rd=1
is the link. thanks
I have found this boost pressure sensor on ebay and am wondering if anyone knows if it can be used with the EMU? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...148322010&rd=1
is the link. thanks
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08-22-2007, 12:50 AM
#35
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Hello
I have found this boost pressure sensor on ebay and am wondering if anyone knows if it can be used with the EMU? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...148322010&rd=1
is the link. thanks
I have found this boost pressure sensor on ebay and am wondering if anyone knows if it can be used with the EMU? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...148322010&rd=1
is the link. thanks
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09-07-2007, 03:29 PM
#40
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I forgot, so I will check tomorrow. In the meantime autotune works! The only problem I have now is that the car won't start when it's hot. I've checked all the settings, but can't find any setting to change this.
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