a guy I know bought an emanage ultimate off ebay and ended up selling the car before he installed the unit. Then I bought the unit for $300. He says the guy he bought it from has it already tuned and setup for the same engine and turbo as mine. The word is that niether of them installed the unit. I know for a fact my friend didn't, but I dunno about who he bought it from. If that's the case, I'm assuming any laptop/software/firmware tuning would not have been done and is still set to default. but I'm gonna double check everything anyway. The unit itself has very few scratches or scuffs on it and the CD looks as if it's never been touched.. a good sign so far. Well, I've got the unit, the harness, an extra one of those bulky sensor/pipe things that the airfilter attatches too (AFM or MAP.. dunno the difference), an extra set of magnecor 8.5 mil wires, NGK iridiums, a bag of wires labeled "option wire x2, a bag with a sensor of some sort labeled "inertia switch", and of course the emanage instructions.
I've been reading and searching for the past several nights and find myself going in circles about a few things. First: WTH is an inertia switch? and is this something I'll actually use?
I've been going through the installation manual to try to make sure the wires are hooked up correctly on the harness, but it's a slow process so far. It looks like it was at one point.. two harnesses. One that normally comes with the emanage, and the other is ECU specific with lots of green wires. These two are currently spliced together quite dramatically and I need to look at my ECU or a picture of one to make sure they are hooked up correctly. I have the ECU pinout that came with the instructions, but I dunno if the male or female end of the harness hooks to the the ECU. It's wired as if the male end of the harness (actually two seperate connectors) plugs into one big female connector on the ECU. At this point the only thing I see questionable is that there is a grey wire from the emanage side having to do with the pressure sensor that isn't hooked up the way the instructions say it should. I believe it was a throttle input or something.. I left the instructions in my locker at work. It looks like it was at one point, but they decided against it... any idea why that would be a good idea?
I have no idea what these wires in the Option bag are. It is two different little harness deals. One has a connector that looks like it would plug into a picture of a wideband o2 sensor I saw on ebay. The other has 3 small wires running through it and a connector on one end, but the other end is just the frayed ends of the wires. He said the guy told him that one of the wires had something to do with ATI, or AIT or something along the likes of air something.
I'm looking to use the emanage for several reasons. One of course being more power. Better fuel economy would be nice, but that's not something I'll focus on. My current o2 sensor gives a code to turn on my check engine light every now and then. I am under the understanding that I will not need an o2 sensor with an emanage.. but I plan to buy and install the autometer phantom gauge that comes with a bosch wideband o2 sensor. I'm under the understanding that I will need to have a new hole (bung?) welded into my exhaust a tad further from my turbo. I've read 10 inches forward of the cat is a good idea. I've also been told that with the emanage, I can do away with the big bulky sensor/pipe deal that my airfilter connects too (AFM/MAP?) this way I can rearrange the piping and put on my k&n filter instead of that half inch piece of yellow foam. But then I see the sticky involving taking it apart and having just a smaller sensor that is more workable than the big bulky version. I'm assuming thats why I have the extra now. Can anyone clearify that one please?
I've also heard that it'll take care of my idle droop problem when I let off the throttle. I have a spec aluminum 1.8 flywheel and stage 3+ clutch, so it usually dies when this droop occurs. I usually brake with one side of my right foot on the brake and the other side feathering the throttle.. it still dies every now and then though. not so good for the turbo bearings.. probably why it's on the fritz.
I want to make sure I understand what I'm doing before I install the EMU (an acronym I know). I also plan to install the autometer wideband A/F gauge/sensor and a greddy turbo timer (which I have yet to buy) at the same time.
right now I've got a 93 with a greddy turbo. It's on the fritz, so I'm looking at the $900 16G kit I've seen. mostly cause it's supposedly bigger and comes with a stainless steel manifold and DP, cause I've read the greaddy one sucks. plus I don't like my IC and that one looks like it would fit better in the "mouth" of my car. also it comes with a BOV.. mine sucks.. details below..
I've got 8.5 magnecors on the car with the stock plugs for the turboed mazdaspeed miata. I've currently got bipes installed. I didn't install it so It might be tricky taking it out... the car came with the turbo, bipes, and the current gauges.. but thats another long story. I don't remember what timing I run, but I just checked it and readjusted my bipes about 3 months ago (darn this short memory of mine). I have a set of 1.8L fuel injectors sitting in my room. I installed them once, but my car ran rich (according to my narrowband) and lost power so I took them back out. I'm currently at 6psi of boost. it sometimes spikes to 7 though. I have (sadly) the rx-7/ premade IC pipes from 15psi . com... and a blowoff valve of unknown origin which I dislike, but if I get a new one, I'll have to hold off on the wideband, which means the EMU install, till a much much much later date. It leaks boost at idle, and blows out oil as an extra special bonus. It also vents atmostpheric.. which I dont mind, but I'd rather do what's best for the car, which is currently to recirculate. I've been told the emanage will make it so the atmospheric vent thing isn't a problem.. hence fixing the idle droop. I have oil blowing through my intake pipes. I did the "tap the pan" thing (not the most professional job in the world, but it drains oil), tried putting a filter on on the hose opposite the pcv valve, wiggled the compressor blade (it didn't wiggle) and checked to see if the bolts holding the turbo together were loose.. they were not. Every response I've ever had to any inquiry about this has given me one of the above mentioned methods to fix it, or just gave up responding. Noone will admit that it's even possible for the seal in the turbo to go bad though. To no avail, it still blows oil and there are traces of oil on the side of the turbo (like it came from the non-loose bolts
) Also, I've got the PCV valve from the... I think it was a turbo 323.. I just remember its supposed to have a stiffer spring. I have currently installed the stock injectors, stock fuel pump, and vortec FPR.
I just wanted to get out as much info about the car as possible so anyone who decided to read would have anything they might need to know. But the base of my confusion stems around the emanage and what's actually needed. If I've screwed up or have wrong information about anything else, It would be greatly appreciated to know that as well so I don't blow something up. Thanks for any info... I didn't expect this post to end up this long...been sleepily typing and editing for over and hour now...and sorry for being such a