setup and wiring guide for ultimate on a 1600
11-17-2007, 12:28 AM
#1
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setup and wiring guide for ultimate on a 1600
Hi guys..done a bit of a search but cant find anything...is there a setup guide for the ultimate like the Emanage blue???
KNow a guy who's trying to get his ultimate up and running but is having problems....
WHATS THE SETUP FOR AN ULTIMATE??JUMPERS? SOFTWARE??
CHEERS IN ADVANCE
KNow a guy who's trying to get his ultimate up and running but is having problems....
WHATS THE SETUP FOR AN ULTIMATE??JUMPERS? SOFTWARE??
CHEERS IN ADVANCE
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11-17-2007, 01:28 AM
#2
Boost Pope
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Jumpers:
JP1 - JP6 = open
JP7, JP8 = 1-2
JP9 = open
JP10 = 2-3
JP11 - JP14 = open
JP15 = 1-2
JP16, JP17 = doesn't matter
JP18 = open
JP19, JP20 = 1-2
Software settings:
Under Vehicle, select B6-ZE(NA). Ensure that the number of IGN and INJ in/out channels is set to 2. In some versions, they incorrectly defaulted to 4. Adjust the Front Panel tab as required for your MAP and WBO2 sensor. On the Map Select tab, click Ignition 1 and Injection 1 for starters.
Wiring- you'll need to tap your MAP signal wire into the TPS input on the EMU. This is needed to trick the autotune into working.
For starters, leave the maps blank and make sure everything works. Then install your injectors, compensate them on the INJ tab (leave the I/J Adjust map blank still) and make sure they work.
It's a learning process. Unless your friends engine setup is 100% identical to one of ours we can't just hand you a 100% working map, but tell us the specs and we can point you in the right direction.
JP1 - JP6 = open
JP7, JP8 = 1-2
JP9 = open
JP10 = 2-3
JP11 - JP14 = open
JP15 = 1-2
JP16, JP17 = doesn't matter
JP18 = open
JP19, JP20 = 1-2
Software settings:
Under Vehicle, select B6-ZE(NA). Ensure that the number of IGN and INJ in/out channels is set to 2. In some versions, they incorrectly defaulted to 4. Adjust the Front Panel tab as required for your MAP and WBO2 sensor. On the Map Select tab, click Ignition 1 and Injection 1 for starters.
Wiring- you'll need to tap your MAP signal wire into the TPS input on the EMU. This is needed to trick the autotune into working.
For starters, leave the maps blank and make sure everything works. Then install your injectors, compensate them on the INJ tab (leave the I/J Adjust map blank still) and make sure they work.
It's a learning process. Unless your friends engine setup is 100% identical to one of ours we can't just hand you a 100% working map, but tell us the specs and we can point you in the right direction.
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11-17-2007, 07:59 AM
#3
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Joe already wrote the most important steps,
but maybe this could help you also for the beginning.
http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=514
@joe: Nice avatar and nice game, it reminds me to my first expierences with video games. Good old times !
but maybe this could help you also for the beginning.
http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=514
@joe: Nice avatar and nice game, it reminds me to my first expierences with video games. Good old times !
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11-17-2007, 01:37 PM
#4
Boost Pope
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Location: Chicago. (The less-murder part.)
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Chico- thank you. I'd been trying to remember where the heck that link was! That's a good getting started guide.
There are a couple of errors in that writeup however regarding the jumpers. Specifically:
JP10 must be set to the VTEC Out position (2-3) if the Aux Output is to be used to control an O2 clamp, for example.
JP13 and JP14 must be set open if one is tapping into the factory sensors. The 1-2 position is used only when a dedicated aftermarket air or water temp sensor is installed.
JP19 and JP20 should be set to 1-2 to allow the A and B outputs to be used to drive relays.
Also, I strongly recommend that people spend the extra money and buy the proper 4-bar Greddy MAP sensor, as opposed to using a generic 2-bar sensor. Not only does it make the tables easier to manage, but it's necessary for AFM removal.
And yeah- I can't begin to imagine how many quarters I put into the Galaga machine when I was a kid. That was a real blast.
There are a couple of errors in that writeup however regarding the jumpers. Specifically:
JP10 must be set to the VTEC Out position (2-3) if the Aux Output is to be used to control an O2 clamp, for example.
JP13 and JP14 must be set open if one is tapping into the factory sensors. The 1-2 position is used only when a dedicated aftermarket air or water temp sensor is installed.
JP19 and JP20 should be set to 1-2 to allow the A and B outputs to be used to drive relays.
Also, I strongly recommend that people spend the extra money and buy the proper 4-bar Greddy MAP sensor, as opposed to using a generic 2-bar sensor. Not only does it make the tables easier to manage, but it's necessary for AFM removal.
And yeah- I can't begin to imagine how many quarters I put into the Galaga machine when I was a kid. That was a real blast.
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11-17-2007, 02:58 PM
#5
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at the moment he has a stock greddy setup with stock injectors....the shop that installed the emanage couldnt get the car to work saying something like they couldnt get the injectors to fire..dont know if it was because of a wiring fault or software/jumper settings being incorrect.
as far as i know he isnt using a wideband or auto tune.
Can someone please confirm that the cas/crank sensors should NOT be connected on the 1600 as they cause issues??
what about the TPS wire?? i take it that it should be left disconnected like with the blue install?
as far as i know he isnt using a wideband or auto tune.
Can someone please confirm that the cas/crank sensors should NOT be connected on the 1600 as they cause issues??
what about the TPS wire?? i take it that it should be left disconnected like with the blue install?
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11-17-2007, 03:49 PM
#6
Boost Pope
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On a '90-'93 with a manual transmission the vehicle's TPS must not be connected. Instead, the MAP signal wire should be tapped and fed into the EMU's TPS input.
The CAS seems to be a point of confusion. I have no personal experience here (mine is disconnected) however there were reports by some early adopters that connecting the CAS wires caused the engine not to run. Since then, some others have connected them without problem. The CAS lines are not necessary for the EMU to operate. By connecting them, you gain the ability to log actual timing (as opposed to only timing adjust) and you also have the ability, in theory, to create four discrete injector outputs from the two injector inputs- allowing you to mimic the functionality of the 1.8 cars in this regard. For now however, it is safe to leave them unconnected.
You will hear some contradictory information concerning the ignition voltage level. What we have found by empirical observation over the past year is that the 1.6 cars use 5 volt ignition control, whereas all of the 1.8 cars that have been observed seem to use 12 volts.
The CAS seems to be a point of confusion. I have no personal experience here (mine is disconnected) however there were reports by some early adopters that connecting the CAS wires caused the engine not to run. Since then, some others have connected them without problem. The CAS lines are not necessary for the EMU to operate. By connecting them, you gain the ability to log actual timing (as opposed to only timing adjust) and you also have the ability, in theory, to create four discrete injector outputs from the two injector inputs- allowing you to mimic the functionality of the 1.8 cars in this regard. For now however, it is safe to leave them unconnected.
You will hear some contradictory information concerning the ignition voltage level. What we have found by empirical observation over the past year is that the 1.6 cars use 5 volt ignition control, whereas all of the 1.8 cars that have been observed seem to use 12 volts.
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11-17-2007, 04:09 PM
#7
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There are a couple of errors in that writeup however regarding the jumpers. Specifically:
JP10 must be set to the VTEC Out position (2-3) if the Aux Output is to be used to control an O2 clamp, for example.
JP13 and JP14 must be set open if one is tapping into the factory sensors. The 1-2 position is used only when a dedicated aftermarket air or water temp sensor is installed.
JP19 and JP20 should be set to 1-2 to allow the A and B outputs to be used to drive relays.
Also, I strongly recommend that people spend the extra money and buy the proper 4-bar Greddy MAP sensor, as opposed to using a generic 2-bar sensor. Not only does it make the tables easier to manage, but it's necessary for AFM removal.
And yeah- I can't begin to imagine how many quarters I put into the Galaga machine when I was a kid. That was a real blast.
JP10 must be set to the VTEC Out position (2-3) if the Aux Output is to be used to control an O2 clamp, for example.
JP13 and JP14 must be set open if one is tapping into the factory sensors. The 1-2 position is used only when a dedicated aftermarket air or water temp sensor is installed.
JP19 and JP20 should be set to 1-2 to allow the A and B outputs to be used to drive relays.
Also, I strongly recommend that people spend the extra money and buy the proper 4-bar Greddy MAP sensor, as opposed to using a generic 2-bar sensor. Not only does it make the tables easier to manage, but it's necessary for AFM removal.
And yeah- I can't begin to imagine how many quarters I put into the Galaga machine when I was a kid. That was a real blast.
Yes, there are some bugs in the guide, i remember there is one also in the pinout of the option port. The pin to the left shoult be the input (the input from the map sensor should be spliced also to tps for autone), but iīm not sure, installation was long ago, i check this tomorrow.
Joe, donīt forget donkey kong, it was placed direct next to galaga at our "pommesbude" (= Diner). There was a lot of money from me inserted there. Good old times
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11-17-2007, 04:15 PM
#8
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at the moment he has a stock greddy setup with stock injectors....the shop that installed the emanage couldnt get the car to work saying something like they couldnt get the injectors to fire..dont know if it was because of a wiring fault or software/jumper settings being incorrect.
as far as i know he isnt using a wideband or auto tune.
Can someone please confirm that the cas/crank sensors should NOT be connected on the 1600 as they cause issues??
what about the TPS wire?? i take it that it should be left disconnected like with the blue install?
as far as i know he isnt using a wideband or auto tune.
Can someone please confirm that the cas/crank sensors should NOT be connected on the 1600 as they cause issues??
what about the TPS wire?? i take it that it should be left disconnected like with the blue install?
Did he has an boomslang?
Last edited by chico; 11-17-2007 at 04:25 PM.
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