vortamock

a guy I know bought an emanage ultimate off ebay and ended up selling the car before he installed the unit. Then I bought the unit for $300. He says the guy he bought it from has it already tuned and setup for the same engine and turbo as mine. The word is that niether of them installed the unit. I know for a fact my friend didn't, but I dunno about who he bought it from. If that's the case, I'm assuming any laptop/software/firmware tuning would not have been done and is still set to default. but I'm gonna double check everything anyway. The unit itself has very few scratches or scuffs on it and the CD looks as if it's never been touched.. a good sign so far. Well, I've got the unit, the harness, an extra one of those bulky sensor/pipe things that the airfilter attatches too (AFM or MAP.. dunno the difference), an extra set of magnecor 8.5 mil wires, NGK iridiums, a bag of wires labeled "option wire x2, a bag with a sensor of some sort labeled "inertia switch", and of course the emanage instructions.

I've been reading and searching for the past several nights and find myself going in circles about a few things. First: WTH is an inertia switch? and is this something I'll actually use?

I've been going through the installation manual to try to make sure the wires are hooked up correctly on the harness, but it's a slow process so far. It looks like it was at one point.. two harnesses. One that normally comes with the emanage, and the other is ECU specific with lots of green wires. These two are currently spliced together quite dramatically and I need to look at my ECU or a picture of one to make sure they are hooked up correctly. I have the ECU pinout that came with the instructions, but I dunno if the male or female end of the harness hooks to the the ECU. It's wired as if the male end of the harness (actually two seperate connectors) plugs into one big female connector on the ECU. At this point the only thing I see questionable is that there is a grey wire from the emanage side having to do with the pressure sensor that isn't hooked up the way the instructions say it should. I believe it was a throttle input or something.. I left the instructions in my locker at work. It looks like it was at one point, but they decided against it... any idea why that would be a good idea?

I have no idea what these wires in the Option bag are. It is two different little harness deals. One has a connector that looks like it would plug into a picture of a wideband o2 sensor I saw on ebay. The other has 3 small wires running through it and a connector on one end, but the other end is just the frayed ends of the wires. He said the guy told him that one of the wires had something to do with ATI, or AIT or something along the likes of air something.

I'm looking to use the emanage for several reasons. One of course being more power. Better fuel economy would be nice, but that's not something I'll focus on. My current o2 sensor gives a code to turn on my check engine light every now and then. I am under the understanding that I will not need an o2 sensor with an emanage.. but I plan to buy and install the autometer phantom gauge that comes with a bosch wideband o2 sensor. I'm under the understanding that I will need to have a new hole (bung?) welded into my exhaust a tad further from my turbo. I've read 10 inches forward of the cat is a good idea. I've also been told that with the emanage, I can do away with the big bulky sensor/pipe deal that my airfilter connects too (AFM/MAP?) this way I can rearrange the piping and put on my k&n filter instead of that half inch piece of yellow foam. But then I see the sticky involving taking it apart and having just a smaller sensor that is more workable than the big bulky version. I'm assuming thats why I have the extra now. Can anyone clearify that one please?

I've also heard that it'll take care of my idle droop problem when I let off the throttle. I have a spec aluminum 1.8 flywheel and stage 3+ clutch, so it usually dies when this droop occurs. I usually brake with one side of my right foot on the brake and the other side feathering the throttle.. it still dies every now and then though. not so good for the turbo bearings.. probably why it's on the fritz.

I want to make sure I understand what I'm doing before I install the EMU (an acronym I know). I also plan to install the autometer wideband A/F gauge/sensor and a greddy turbo timer (which I have yet to buy) at the same time.

right now I've got a 93 with a greddy turbo. It's on the fritz, so I'm looking at the $900 16G kit I've seen. mostly cause it's supposedly bigger and comes with a stainless steel manifold and DP, cause I've read the greaddy one sucks. plus I don't like my IC and that one looks like it would fit better in the "mouth" of my car. also it comes with a BOV.. mine sucks.. details below..


Current stuff:
I've got 8.5 magnecors on the car with the stock plugs for the turboed mazdaspeed miata. I've currently got bipes installed. I didn't install it so It might be tricky taking it out... the car came with the turbo, bipes, and the current gauges.. but thats another long story. I don't remember what timing I run, but I just checked it and readjusted my bipes about 3 months ago (darn this short memory of mine). I have a set of 1.8L fuel injectors sitting in my room. I installed them once, but my car ran rich (according to my narrowband) and lost power so I took them back out. I'm currently at 6psi of boost. it sometimes spikes to 7 though. I have (sadly) the rx-7/ premade IC pipes from 15psi . com... and a blowoff valve of unknown origin which I dislike, but if I get a new one, I'll have to hold off on the wideband, which means the EMU install, till a much much much later date. It leaks boost at idle, and blows out oil as an extra special bonus. It also vents atmostpheric.. which I dont mind, but I'd rather do what's best for the car, which is currently to recirculate. I've been told the emanage will make it so the atmospheric vent thing isn't a problem.. hence fixing the idle droop. I have oil blowing through my intake pipes. I did the "tap the pan" thing (not the most professional job in the world, but it drains oil), tried putting a filter on on the hose opposite the pcv valve, wiggled the compressor blade (it didn't wiggle) and checked to see if the bolts holding the turbo together were loose.. they were not. Every response I've ever had to any inquiry about this has given me one of the above mentioned methods to fix it, or just gave up responding. Noone will admit that it's even possible for the seal in the turbo to go bad though. To no avail, it still blows oil and there are traces of oil on the side of the turbo (like it came from the non-loose bolts ) Also, I've got the PCV valve from the... I think it was a turbo 323.. I just remember its supposed to have a stiffer spring. I have currently installed the stock injectors, stock fuel pump, and vortec FPR.

I just wanted to get out as much info about the car as possible so anyone who decided to read would have anything they might need to know. But the base of my confusion stems around the emanage and what's actually needed. If I've screwed up or have wrong information about anything else, It would be greatly appreciated to know that as well so I don't blow something up. Thanks for any info... I didn't expect this post to end up this long...been sleepily typing and editing for over and hour now...and sorry for being such a !

Zabac

iTrader: (39)

Holy ****, I'll read this again tomorrow when I'm sober and try to help then.

CrazyManSlim

hah im too lazy to read that much! anyways, A harness with a bunch of green wires sounds like a boomslang harness to me.. thats what mine is.. there very nicely crafted. And of course your going to need an O2 sensor to read AFR's.. LC-1's are nice and so are PLX.. I have an LC1 and its pretty good.. But I have to admit the daisy chaining and versatality of the PLX version is better IMO.. sorta wishing I had got it instead, they are around the same price as well if I remember right. and DAMN I wish someone woulda sold me my EMU for 300 bux.. thats a steal! mine didnt come with option bags or a harness.. so yea.. thats pretty awesome.

vortamock

the autometer gauge is supposed to come with a bosh wideband sensor... think that one's any good? or should I look elsewhere?

I finished going through the harness today on my lunch break... I got a lot of strange looks walking through walmart carying my harness.. anyway, I finished going through them all and came up with a few questions.:

The grey wire is the throttle signal and is supposed to be spliced into the green patch harness.. well it's not... anymore... It looks like it once was.. any idea why this would not be hooked up?

The directions say that if the cam and crank signals are hooked up, then you don't need to hook up the RPM signal. Well, they are all three hooked up.. is this good, bad, or doesn't matter?

The vehicle speed signal wire is not hooked up... The pinout diagram for the ECU says we have one. So is there a reason to not hook that up, or should I just go ahead and do that?

And do we not have an idle control valve wire? I'm not sure what one of those is, but it doesn't list as us having one on the ECU pinout supplied with the instructions. Maybe this is an extra thing that some people buy separate?


And thanks for the info. With the LC1 sensor, do you still need to buy an A/F gauge that's wideband compatible? My current gauge isn't made for a wideband sensor. That's why I was looking at the autometer one, but if the bosch sensor that comes with it isn't worth it, then I'll try to find a cheep gauge to go with the LC1. I've seen the LC1 sensors on ebay for $190. That's the picture I mentioned that it looked like this option wire hooked into.

vortamock

Anyone have an idea? I just don't wanna mess something up. It's my daily driver and I'm working two jobs, so I wanna make sure I get it right the first time. I can't really afford to just go for it and have something break.

vortamock

So I've decided to go for it. I guess I typed too much for anyone to wanna read it. So I'm gonna go ahead and give it a try. I've went ahead and reconnected the throttle signal wire. I also connected one of the injector channel wires that wasn't connected. I've left the crank, cam, and rpm signal wires all connected. I assume we don't really have a vehicle speed sensor and the pinout is wrong. I do know I have a cable that goes from the trans to somewhere else and I'm pretty sure that's a mechanical version of the same thing. I'm assuming we have no idle control valve wire since I've never heard of one. and I assume I'll be safe hooking it up for a week or two till I can get my wideband. I will unpin the wires I'm not gonna use and rewrap the harness on my lunch tomorow. The only thing I see an inertia switch used for is some type of safety cut off in a collision so I'm not gonna worry about that.

BUT... Is a 4-bar map sensor required to make the EMU work? or does it just make something work better?

cause if it's not required, I'll plug in the EMU tomorow and and just put that in when I can get a chance to get it.

I'm assuming also that my MAF sensor, a MAP sensor, a greddy pressure sensor, and a greddy temp sensor are all seperate and do seperate things for a seperate reason. Please correct me if I'm wrong on this. thanks.

vortamock

ok, today I didn't have time to do everything I had set out for, but I did unpin the wires I didn't need and clean up the harness. There is still a jumper or two I'm not sure if I got correct.

I've been wonderin why I haven't had many replies to questions that are probably simple to those who know. I can only come up with two reasons:

A. The first day I posted, several folks saw the length of the first post and decided it wasn't worth coming back to the thread to see what else I had to say.

Or:

B. People are dissapointed because I have no pictures. Well, I would have had them sooner but my camera is broken. But a friend came over and happened to have his... so here is my harness handy work.

the upclose shot of the unpinned connectors came out fuzzy:


Most of these were already connected when I got it. The only ones I did were the yellow connectors. I unclipped a few of the clearish plastic ones to untangle the wires though:


The finished product. This is how it's going into the car: