apariah

I just got the new MTX-L, but since its configured a bit differently I'm trying to figure out how to install it. Has anyone installed one permanently in a NA NON-track only miata?

I'd like to get it done over the holiday. The wiring looks even more simple than the LC-1, but I can't figure how to safely mount the thing without drilling holes in my car.

exexx

I have had one for several months. I followed the instructions and it came up running. It was part of a BEGI S3 kit install, so the downpipe already had the 2nd bung for the wideband sensor. It's toward the back of the downpipe just ahead of the flange mating to the midpipe.

apariah

Sorry thats not what I mean. I'm trying to figure out where to place the controller. I've already installed an LC-1 but the controller was in the engine bay. I cannot do that with this one.

02semiata

What about using one of the airvents or getting a gauge pod

hustler

iTrader: (6)

http://www.ddmworks.com/miata/interi...surrounds.html

I floss with one of those in both cars.

apariah

I should have been even more precise with the question, I'm asking about routing the cable. I have the LC-1 installed below the radio, beside my boost gauge, but the cable on this new gauge are setup differently. I'm going to give it a shot, and just post photos after I get it installed.

apariah

The guys at Innovate said it was a much cleaner install. They also said it would go much faster. I think it took me more time it remove the LC-1 than it did to install of the MTX-L. It mounted in the same spot below the radio. I wasn't able to connect to it via the data cable, but the Mega squirter saw it immediately. I'll give the guys at Innovate a call next week to see what I missed, but overall the MTX-L rocks. It is faster, it give errors with out and led, and digital. I love this thing. Oh and it cost less than the LC-1 and my DB gauge originally did.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

I hate the dancing lights though.

apariah

Last year it would have been an issue, but since I'm not longer with my ex, I can deal with it. I can see how it would bother you, but it seems like a nice upgrade to the LC-1. Well worth the dancing lights.

NiklasFalk

iTrader: (1)

Anyone have a clue what to try when the MTX-L goes completely black (it looks like it have died).
It get 12V all the way into the gauge but still nothing (not even a faint error code). There is not much in there that you could analyze, fuse or similar simple stuff.

Typically I have the new engine in and really need to tune before the race on friday.
it runs fat (the MTX-L was working all the way until the engine got warm, died just when it was going to get used...).

Getting a new one before Thursday seems unlikley (and a visit to a tuner was not planned now).

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

No idea. I have one in a box to replace my LC-1. can you measure the voltage of the outputs (yellow or Brown) to see if it's functioning. Did you ground the White wire?

I've had a NB gauge in my car running off my LC-1 before, the lights don't dance unless your tune sucks.

Reverant

iTrader: (10)

Get one from Telematica (telematica.gr), ask them to ship next day through ELTA SPM if you are in a hurry.

NiklasFalk

iTrader: (1)

I found a local supplier that's supposed to have them in stock. If they don't I have a number of options (now one more, thanks), all over Europe.

I do have some bad luck with WB's, I have three Bosch sensors now (all OK)...

NiklasFalk

iTrader: (1)

It was working for two months before today and it was working during many of the starts during idle tuning (with the new engine). Then it suddenly went black when i really needed it (it's about 1 AFR point rich now).
It still had 12.2V (key in radio mode, power from back of the lighter socket) or 14.2V (wen running) and true ground on black+white. The yellow and brown wires were both 0V over ground.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

If yellow and brown only have 0v, then I'd assume it's dead - considering those are the outputs.

apariah

In theory you could see 12v at the gauge even if you didn't have a good ground right. Could that be the cause of his issue? Considering unlike the LC-1 you only have one ground on the MTX if it isn't sound then nothing should work.

NiklasFalk

iTrader: (1)

I got a new MTX-L at a local supplier (no shipping to pay for).

He told me that this was the third MTX-L that he have heard of (1st hand) dying, a much much lower number than for the LC-1. So I hope that this one will live longer .

NiklasFalk

iTrader: (1)

Hmm, I killed a second one, but now I think I know the reason.

Poor ground to the engine (the flimsy braided thing between the dip-stock and below the brake MS was not properly torqued down) have made the voltage drop at high rpm/loads and killed the MTX-L.
I'm not 100% sure but since the MS have been rebooting (probably due to poor ground since that problem when away when I cleaned the ground points and torqued it down properly), I guess the MTX-L have died for the same reason you should not have it on during cranking. But it's speced at 8-18V, could a rebooting MS indicate a voltage as low as 8V?

A relay that turn things off below 12V seems to be the next thing I need... (some (if not all) lessons are learned the hard way... And learning from others don't work that well for me :( )

hustler

iTrader: (6)

Why aren't you grounding it on the engine and following the instructions?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

you mean the main ground at the bolt by the throttle body...