supercooper

Alright, so im finally able to start my journey to being aids-less.
I have purchased some decent 550cc injectors, all flow tested and in great shape. I'm now sorting through the car to make sure i have everything in order. Havent messed with the car much since i bought it a million years ago, but looking through some of the stuff, sometimes i wanna kick the PO.
Turbo "kit" is, or WAS, a Greddy. all thats left of the greddy is the turbo, heatshield, and intake elbow.

Here is a question...



Why would the PO have a bipes acu, AND a j&s safeguard system in conjunction???

the bipes ACU just retards timing based on whatever you want, AFM, intake temp, or RPM's

the J&S (which i plan to keep with the MS) uses the knock sensor, and retards INDIVIDUAL cylinders accordingly.

This looks to me like the J&S is acting as a safeguard IN CASE the BIPES fails (more than it already fails, being a bipes)

It is all fail, and i plan on fixing it. I guess what im wondering is, if i remove the BIPES, the car wont start, just turn over. I dont know enough about this system, or how it was wired. i want to just unplug my ECU, and plug in the MS... but if it wont start without the BIPES connected with the Stock ECU, i ASSUME it wont start with the MS and bipes disconnected.

Should i leave the BIPES on WITH the MS? or does someone know how this fail can be remedied???

supercooper

oh... and please ignore the dirty *** glovebox... lol

18psi

iTrader: (76)

trace the wires from the bipes to the harness. he probably cut the wires and wired in the bipes input/output separately so if you simply unplug the unit it breaks the circuit/connection to the ecu and car don't work.

undo that and voila

don't leave it in there. that would be retarded (pun intended)

supercooper

haha, awesome... I'll have to start tracing them... As you can see, ive stripped all the shrouding off the Birdsnest of Aids wiring. lol
I pulled it all off... and was like...wtf.. lol

Alright, so find and reconnect the break... fix the no start problem (thanks 18!)

Now, i brought this up in another thread... I plan to keep the J&S wired in. I was told that it is still relevant, and will not negatively interact with the MS. Is there anything i should know about going this route? I ASSUME ill be the only person who has done that, as i have done alot of reading on MS, and have NOT encountered any talk of it with anyone else. lol

Why would someone run BOTH the Bipes AND J&S?, is what im wondering.. Just for my own knowledge, as i will soon be a Squirter like most of you gays.

Im thinking it was a Backup FOR a Backup to prevent ultimate failsauce (maybe it HAS worked, since its been in there AT LEAST 4 years at 17psi)

18psi

iTrader: (76)

I dont think its a backup. I think the bipes retards for boost accross the board, and the j&s was used exclusively for its knock sensing and reacting abilities.

Just a guess of course.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

because one's a knock sensor and the other is a timing retarder based on rpm.

supercooper

I know i wont need the Bipes, but Is MS capable of doing what the J&S does? or does that make things more complicated than necessary with the building and tuning?

supercooper

im a little Irked right now.... the J&S is over $500.... the bipes is around $200 or so.... thats MS ballpark.... and MS is SOOOOOOO much easier to install, and adjust. Too bad i cant sell these for a quick $700. I want to track the PO down, and ask WTF? lol
SUPPOSEDLY, this guy has "built" many miatas..... This car must have been the first and worst. (its reliable, strong, and hasnt had issues yet.... but AIDS)

richyvrlimited

iTrader: (1)

Keep the J&S, unless you intend to get an MS3 with it's addition knock conditioner board the J&S absolutely beats the pants off MS1 and 2's knock sensing capeabilities