Gauging Interest - Inexpensive Electronic Det Cans
01-09-2010, 01:48 AM
#43
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Just FWIW.
For years I've been using some Radio Shack gizmo "amplified ears" or some such. It has stereo mikes in the box; I disconnected one, then took out the other, and connected it to both mic inputs, put it on the end of a cable, and glued it into a large battery jumper clip, which I clip under the intake mani. I also had to reduce the "gain" of the circuit (it was waaaaaaaaaaaaay too loud, as the box is originally designed to increase your hearing's sensitivity), by swapping a resistor. Even with the built-in volume **** set to minimum, it was clipping.
Knock is very obvious. At low RPM, you'll hear high frequency bell-like ringing; at high RPM, you'll hear the characteristic "tink tink".
Tip: to use at the dyno, hi-fi in-ear noise-blocking 'phones work best. It is important to block out ambient noise, or you'll go deaf. I love my Monster Turbines which I use on airplanes and in general.
For years I've been using some Radio Shack gizmo "amplified ears" or some such. It has stereo mikes in the box; I disconnected one, then took out the other, and connected it to both mic inputs, put it on the end of a cable, and glued it into a large battery jumper clip, which I clip under the intake mani. I also had to reduce the "gain" of the circuit (it was waaaaaaaaaaaaay too loud, as the box is originally designed to increase your hearing's sensitivity), by swapping a resistor. Even with the built-in volume **** set to minimum, it was clipping.
Knock is very obvious. At low RPM, you'll hear high frequency bell-like ringing; at high RPM, you'll hear the characteristic "tink tink".
Tip: to use at the dyno, hi-fi in-ear noise-blocking 'phones work best. It is important to block out ambient noise, or you'll go deaf. I love my Monster Turbines which I use on airplanes and in general.
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01-10-2010, 12:47 PM
#45
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UPDATE:
I finished the first "complete" model last night. Seems to work well (Though its not as nice looking as I'd like. Radioshack is worthless when it comes to finding the exact parts I want, had to make due). I'm heading over to the SKmetalworks lair to get an exhaust rattle fixed so that I can actually hear something other than that annoying buzz. I'll post some pictures later tonight.
I finished the first "complete" model last night. Seems to work well (Though its not as nice looking as I'd like. Radioshack is worthless when it comes to finding the exact parts I want, had to make due). I'm heading over to the SKmetalworks lair to get an exhaust rattle fixed so that I can actually hear something other than that annoying buzz. I'll post some pictures later tonight.
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01-10-2010, 07:10 PM
#47
Made some improvements to the design, the output is MUCH cleaner now.
Sample
I'd love to get some feedback from the people who showed interest in the idea. If people are still on board I can crank out a final version so you can see what you'd be getting.
Sample
I'd love to get some feedback from the people who showed interest in the idea. If people are still on board I can crank out a final version so you can see what you'd be getting.
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01-10-2010, 09:12 PM
#48
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Jeff and I tested out the "final" model today and worked great with the noise canceling ear buds. FWIW Jeff, this one looks way better than an exposed circuit board with exposed wires and transistors everywhere.
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01-11-2010, 02:03 AM
#51
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Picture time!
First things first. These wont come with headphones. Nice onces can run into the hundreds of dollars, and I just cant swing that at a 50 dollar price point
. Also of note, on the ones that I ship out, there wont be a battery clip, there will be a plug in for your cig lighter, I can accommodate if people want them battery powered though.
A shot of the volume adjustment ****. I opted to use the sturdier **** type pots instead of the cheesy round dial ones that are on most cheap electronics. I want these things to survive abuse.
For the record, the input jacks I'll be putting on the shipped copies will be the thru-mount type with a locknut for durability. Radioshit didn't have what I wanted and Fry's is like 45 minutes out of the way, so I made due with what I had on this one.
These clips are SOLID. I clamped it onto the top motor mount bolt and it didn't move at all, also there was no vibration related noise picked up. I'm positive that these will be absolutely adequate in 99% of cases. For those of you that want a permanent install solution, I'm going to be getting together with JayL & Stan of SKMetalworks here shortly to figure something out. I want the install to be as painless as possible and its a PITA to get wrenches down underneath the intake manifold without coming out bloody.
Finally...cat pictures
Gia
Oliver (normally doesn't look this evil)
Oh, and to answer the fellow about the sound samples containing knock, you are right, there is no knock in that sample. I just need to stop being a ***** and induce some knock on my engine to get a clip. Up to this point, my concern was that due to the software I was using to record the sound clips I couldn't record and listen at the same time, so if I was knocking I could potentially go for a while without knowing (which would obviously suck).
To remedy this, I went out and bought a splitter for the output so I can listen and record at the same time ( and before anyone points it out, yes...I could have just wired in another headphone jack. You were paying attention when I said RadioShit was out right?) I'll try to get actual knock samples as soon as I can.
First things first. These wont come with headphones. Nice onces can run into the hundreds of dollars, and I just cant swing that at a 50 dollar price point
. Also of note, on the ones that I ship out, there wont be a battery clip, there will be a plug in for your cig lighter, I can accommodate if people want them battery powered though.A shot of the volume adjustment ****. I opted to use the sturdier **** type pots instead of the cheesy round dial ones that are on most cheap electronics. I want these things to survive abuse.
For the record, the input jacks I'll be putting on the shipped copies will be the thru-mount type with a locknut for durability. Radioshit didn't have what I wanted and Fry's is like 45 minutes out of the way, so I made due with what I had on this one.
These clips are SOLID. I clamped it onto the top motor mount bolt and it didn't move at all, also there was no vibration related noise picked up. I'm positive that these will be absolutely adequate in 99% of cases. For those of you that want a permanent install solution, I'm going to be getting together with JayL & Stan of SKMetalworks here shortly to figure something out. I want the install to be as painless as possible and its a PITA to get wrenches down underneath the intake manifold without coming out bloody.
Finally...cat pictures
Gia
Oliver (normally doesn't look this evil)
Oh, and to answer the fellow about the sound samples containing knock, you are right, there is no knock in that sample. I just need to stop being a ***** and induce some knock on my engine to get a clip. Up to this point, my concern was that due to the software I was using to record the sound clips I couldn't record and listen at the same time, so if I was knocking I could potentially go for a while without knowing (which would obviously suck).
To remedy this, I went out and bought a splitter for the output so I can listen and record at the same time ( and before anyone points it out, yes...I could have just wired in another headphone jack. You were paying attention when I said RadioShit was out right?) I'll try to get actual knock samples as soon as I can.
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01-11-2010, 09:32 AM
#54
I would really like a permanent solution if you can work one. Ideally I would like a system that can connect to this:
Since I left mine on the car when I sold my LINK
How does everyone feel about permanent vs clip?
Also, how does the long gray wire connect to the box or the clip. If it's permanent it will be difficult to pass the box or the large clip through the firewall for install.
Any other suggestions for the best way to permanently mount this? The above sensor may not be the best solution. I'd like peoples input.
Jeff, great work. This is really fantastic. It's something that we can all benefit from and you've really seen it through. Thanks! I can't wait for a final release. My money is ready and waiting to be sent.
Since I left mine on the car when I sold my LINK
How does everyone feel about permanent vs clip?
Also, how does the long gray wire connect to the box or the clip. If it's permanent it will be difficult to pass the box or the large clip through the firewall for install.
Any other suggestions for the best way to permanently mount this? The above sensor may not be the best solution. I'd like peoples input.
Jeff, great work. This is really fantastic. It's something that we can all benefit from and you've really seen it through. Thanks! I can't wait for a final release. My money is ready and waiting to be sent.
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01-11-2010, 10:20 AM
#55
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I would really like a permanent solution if you can work one. Ideally I would like a system that can connect to this:
Since I left mine on the car when I sold my LINK
How does everyone feel about permanent vs clip?
Also, how does the long gray wire connect to the box or the clip. If it's permanent it will be difficult to pass the box or the large clip through the firewall for install.
Any other suggestions for the best way to permanently mount this? The above sensor may not be the best solution. I'd like peoples input.
Jeff, great work. This is really fantastic. It's something that we can all benefit from and you've really seen it through. Thanks! I can't wait for a final release. My money is ready and waiting to be sent.
Since I left mine on the car when I sold my LINK
How does everyone feel about permanent vs clip?
Also, how does the long gray wire connect to the box or the clip. If it's permanent it will be difficult to pass the box or the large clip through the firewall for install.
Any other suggestions for the best way to permanently mount this? The above sensor may not be the best solution. I'd like peoples input.
Jeff, great work. This is really fantastic. It's something that we can all benefit from and you've really seen it through. Thanks! I can't wait for a final release. My money is ready and waiting to be sent.
Oh, and I'm probably going to add another mic jack to the input cable to ease install
.
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01-11-2010, 10:26 AM
#56
Let me try to get my hands on a knock sensor to test it out with. The amp currently uses a small mic as an input and the circuit would be slightly different with a piezo based element. Also, what you would hear would be completely different. Right now its somewhat like an electronic stethoscope, IMO with a piezo sensor everything tends to sound more...."plinky"(for lack of a better term) which might make it harder to differentiate knock from other sounds. I'm not against doing it if thats what people want, but it would change things up a bit.
Oh, and I'm probably going to add another mic jack to the input cable to ease install.
Oh, and I'm probably going to add another mic jack to the input cable to ease install
.
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01-11-2010, 11:23 AM
#58
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.
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01-12-2010, 09:19 AM
#60
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I wouldn't delay production chasing knock sensor compatibility. Knock sensors have already proven themselves to provide false readings so much of the time. It sounds like you are already ready for production so I wouldn't hesitate to get them out. Good job, by the way.
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