Loki79

Since I don't have a gauge, I only have TS to tell me what the LC-1 is saying.
And, without any specific rythm, it stays on spot, and then suddenly goes to 20 or 10 AF without reason.

If I had issues with the connections, I'd expect it to go 0v, but going to 5v is the part I don't get.
Main power is supplied by a cable directly connected to the battery, and the relay is driven by the cigarette lighter cable.

I know there's been some issues with the LC-1 setup, and I just need to know if this might be "typical" for the controller/sensor.
Considering getting an AEM and performing a ritual burning of this LC-1 ****. I can barely fit the controller in my centre console.

richyvrlimited

iTrader: (1)

Why are you locating the controller in the centre console? hide it under the dash or something.

Mine's in the engine bay.

I can almost guarantee you've f'ed up the wiring, go back and do it again following the Innovate instructions to the letter.

Don't blame a unit because you've not installed it properly, mine has been perfect for years and years.

Loki79

Well, all the threads I've read concerning this matter has people chiming in on how many problems they've had with the LC-1.

But to the matter, there's not much to mess up. Relay power on the cigarette lighter wire, and main power straight from the battery.

Is there any way wrong wiring can cause the lambda to give 5v peak signals randomly?
I can see a bad connection giving 0v random, but my knowledge to electronics doesn't see how it can go the other way.

The wiring will be looked over again, don't worry, I'm asking for other possible reasons for it going nuts like this.

Reverant

iTrader: (10)

It's really, REALLY easy to get 5V spikes if the LC-1 wiring or the ECU wiring is near other wiring that has high-current pulsing signals - the idle valve and the injectors are prime examples of this.

Also do a free air calibration, just in case.

Loki79

Now we're getting somewhere.
I'll be sure to check it out, and see if I can screen the cables in some matter.

I've inserted the sensor just below the shift boot, and the cable is coming up through the boot, so placing the controller in the centre console seemed natural.
From there, the relay is placed in the front joint of the console where it connects to the dash (perfect little space in there for it) and the cables then run straight to the MSPNP.

CRAIGO

You do also know that a a supply directly from the battery is a BIG no no too?

Im no electronics expert but imo the ECU 12v supply wire is too thin to tap into. The LC-1 draws a fair bit of current during sensor warm-up. I supply my LC-1 with a 12v supply from the thick blue switched supply cable at the heater. All my grounds are mounted to the same location. Use a good ground source too.

Have you got the diagnostic LED connected up? You mentioned the AFR value had "no rhythm". You could be in a state of error and not know. Also, when you mentioned about only having TS to rely upon for actual AFR values - connect the LC-1 directly to your laptop via Logworks and see the TRUE AFR value plus any errors and cross check that against the AFRs you're seeing in TS.

All this is in the Innovate manual. I presume you've not read it according to your install. It's a good starting point if you want to get thing right.

Loki79

Why is the direct connection from the battery a big no no? Searching the forum is like looking for a needle in a haystack, so I haven't found anything else then people saying they've done it this way, and then no further complaints.
Getting the sensor power from the ECU is out of the question.

I've had assistance when it comes to calibrating it and using it up to the ECU, but the diagnostics LED has not been connected after the last check post-calibration.

Since I only have one laptop and once COM-port connection, checking both the ECU signal and LC-1 signal simultaniously have been an issue. I'll be getting another USB->COM adapter today to connect them at the same time.

Thank you for the tips so far, now I have something to work with.

budget racer

iTrader: (1)

does a free air calibration fix it temporarily?

CRAIGO

For clarity, when you state you have a direct battery connection, are you talking about it being switched via a relay? If it's not switched then the sensor will be constantly powered and heated regardless of the engine running or not. That's the big no no.

wittyworks

iTrader: (6)

I was in a similar situation as you, and just went the AEM route, it works flawlessly. For my power source, i run the wire to a spade connector, and plug that into the unused socket for the power windows on my car. I have no power window, but the wires are all run.

Loki79

As I've stated in two posts, I get the RELAY power from the cigarette lighter, switching the main power to the sensor.
Hence, the main power is directly connected, and switched through a relay.
I never connect anything without switching

The shitty part about going the AEM route, is that it costs me about $300, so I'll be doing whatever I can to make the LC-1 work. Even if it doesn't have a gauge.

CRAIGO

So what does logworks say when the sensor goes goofy? It gives you the error message in text so you don't have to look up codes.

Loki79

Don't know yet, I'll report back tonight or tomorrow unless the weather goes apeshit.
Gonna go for a ride today with a laptop by my side and check both logworks and TS again.

Loki79

Seems I've knocked one of the water pipes for the heater loose when I attached the manifold, so it's leaking water.

So no mapping for me..