zeroox

1994 1.8
mspnp
460 injectors
begi s1 kit
2560 Garrett

I did a lot of searching and reading but wanted to toss it out in case someone had some thoughts that i missed.

was out driving the other day and a ball joint broke while driving. I just did the front brakes a month back and did not see any issues with the joints so not sure what happened. It did scare the crap out of me losing most my steering while going down the road. I figure I better have the car checked out. I am sending it to York automotive in MD to get it looked over from front to back and anything that needs fixing fixed.. ie ball joints, tie rods and things like that.

I am also getting TRM CM3s installed (i know most don't like them but came down to cost) and an alignment done. radiator put in, and a thermostat.

Now that I got all that out of the way. They tuned the car a few months back and I was happy with the tune. Seemed to run fine and have no issues. Some people did not like the curve and where the hp and trq peaked.

My question what should I have them look at as far as the tune. Should I tell them that the trq and hp does not look right. or is it more that it just ends up being what it is and nothing that can be changed.

Also i have read every post out there for max hp and trq and really does not seem to be a definitive answer on what the motor can handle. Right now it is at 12.5psi around 215hp and trq. In your opinion.. and just looking for opinions it is worth it to bump it up to lets say 14psi and close in closer to 250hp or is it not worth it. it is fun like it is but more power is could be more fun. also with those heavy *** wheels might be nice to have more power.

I have read that 250 is the max others say 225hp and trq.

Any thoughts would be appreciated. If it was your car what would you do?

pdexta

iTrader: (17)

I just noticed this thread, but I'm at work now so I can't go through the MSQ. My first thought is that your timing may be way retarded up top. Have you compared your timing map to any in this thread: https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquir...timingz-18648/ ? Maybe try reducing your spark plug gap to see if your getting blowout at higher rpms. What if you try a run at wastegate pressure, does it still die out up top like that?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

see: timing latency.



you should be seeing peak power at ~6700RPM.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

Nice diesel.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

Soooooo aparently this place is not tuning with VEAL or MLV considering this AFR table is loaded:

I guess that helps them sit on the dyno longer and run you on the clock at the hourly rate.

They also have EGO correction turned off, no IAT spark retard.

zeroox

I almost forgot about this post.

Diesel miata are going to take over the track. Better gas mileage = less cost to race and more green to keep the tree huggers at bay.

Thanks for the help searching on timing latency to see what I can find.

York Automotive said they were going to dyno tune it today. I guess I will see what they come back with. If it is the same curve I will look at taking it someplace else. With this suggestions provided today not sure I am going to have enough knowledge to call them up and provide suggestions or what I want them to look at.

zeroox

Thanks.. looking up what that means now.

zeroox

EGO setting. I realize why that is turned off. This would use the Wide band. Although I have a wide band installed on the car it seems to not read right. I have not been able to solve that problem. They are using the tail pipe probe for AF not my LC1. My hope is to get the LC1 working right so I can attempt to tune myself one day... or maybe drive to NoVa and pay someone for some street tuning time (hint to Braineack ).

hustler

iTrader: (6)

If that AFR table is unchanged, you should ask for your money back.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

This means they aren't using modern technology like VEAL or MLV which would dramatically speed up the tuning process. This should concern you if have a working wideband. We're talking about ~2 hours to tune a VE table on a dyno manually vs 15 minutes with VEAL.

zeroox

Thanks for taking the time to help me out here guys. So the question is this. I am going to call them up. They were not the original place to set up the MSPNP. What should I ask or tell them when I call.

Just say something like.

-- It looks like I am making peak HP lower than I should on the dyno. Can you check the spark retard and timing latency? ---

I always get worried i am going **** off a shop for some reason.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

You can't really ask "are you going to do a good job". You get to pay and see what you end up with. This is why I started tuning cars myself.

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

Have you done a free air calibration on the LC1?

If you do get the LC1 working correctly and change the target AFRs to something more reasonable, the car will virtually tune itself if you use VE Analyze Live (VEAL) in TunerStudio. You don't need to pay a shop to do it on a dyno.

After you get the timing latency question satisfied you can mimic some of the known safe timing maps that have been discussed in the past by people like Braineak. Your car dies in the higher RPMs and it is likely due to timing. You need to double check that the base timing is set like it is supposed to be.

zeroox

I called them up. Mentioned the peak hp how should be later in the rpm. Also asked about the timing. They said they would check everything again. I will wait and see.

I do have the autotune software. I need the Lc1 working. And I plan to tune myself in the future. Right now I just want the car drivable. Have had it for 12 months and been drivable maybe 3. One issue after another.

I will post info when I hear back from them. Said they were putting on the dyno soon.