Evergreen

iTrader: (6)

So the other day I noticed a ticking sound coming from my engine. Also I noticed I was smoking on decel. Sounds like the noise is coming from the bottom end. But not a rod knock. Not sure what it is just yet. It supposedly already has forged rods. So being that I going to rebuild it, I am want to go bigger and better. I am going to aim for 280-320 horsepower (currently at 228)

Here is a list of modifications to date:
95 Miata
PS, power windows, no A/C
MegaSquirt MS1 DIY
LC1 wideband
FM manifold
GT2560R, low miles, boost currently set to 14 PSI
Custom 2.5" downpipe
FM 2.5" cat-back
Large CX-Racing Intercooler
FM intercooler hose and elbow
Turbosmart Vee-Port Pro BOV
3-row radiator (fully ducted)
Toyota COPs
coolant re-route
460cc Injectors (RX7)
6-speed transmission
F1-Racing Stage 3 clutch
Polyurethane control arm / diff / motor mounts
R-package Bilsteins with 450lb / 250lb springs with Ground Control Kit
BC coilovers (in a box. not sure if they would be better)
SuperMiata Sway Bar kit from 949Racing
Stock brakes with large brake cooling ducts / powerslot rotors
6UL 15x8 wheels / 225x45 BFGoodrich Rivals
GV Rep front lip / R-package rear spoiler
Sparco EVO 2 driver seat fixed to floor using side mounts
Sparco 4-point harness
Hard Dog double-diagonal roll bar with harness bar
Carbing front strut bar
Carbing rear strut bar
cut rear bumper

These are what I have/will be purchasing:
BE Street Oil Pump
Eagle Rods with ARP bolts (have)
Supertech 8.6:1 pistons
FM dual feed fuel rail (have)
ID 1000cc Injectors
ACL bearings (have)
ARP studs/bolts (have)
Timing belt/water pump
Garret GT2860RS with a T3 hotside (have)
3" downpipe/3" exhaust into a Greddy RS
AEM Tru-Boost controller (have)
oil cooler
building a new intake
WI kit (not sure if ill use it but have)

My question is, Is this going to get me to my goal? Is there something I am not thinking of that I need? The car is not really a daily but i do like to drive a lot.

Any positive/helpful advice would be appreciated.

krissetsfire

iTrader: (1)

If you're doing all that you may as well get a BE oil pump. It's debatable to get one at that power level but i'd just do it so I wouldn't have to deal with it later.

~$300 is small price in the grand scheme I think. rest looks like good. Id also buy ARP main bolts.

Evergreen

iTrader: (6)

i have the bolts. forgot to mention that. what is the benefit of upgrading the oil pump? better flow or better reliability?

thenuge26

iTrader: (2)

Reliability. Also I'd go with ID1000s over DW700s.

I'd say go for the Borg but it wouldn't fit your manifold. Maybe a 2860. For 280-320 the 2871 is a bit overkill. In fact your 2560 will max out at around 320 running ALLOFIT.

Evergreen

iTrader: (6)

Well after looking into this, I just picked up a 2860, tube manifold w/ ewg, and a nicer 2.5" downpipe. Not sure if there is room for a 3" but if there is I will still be using a 3".

You say ID1000s over the DW700s but how are the IDs more reliable? I guess what do you mean by more reliable?

18psi

iTrader: (76)

They are way newer and better technology, and will run smoother and idle better.

ThunderKunt

He said reliability in response to your question "what is the benefit of upgrading the oil pump? better flow or better reliability?" As far as injector choice goes either will work for what you are looking to make power wise but it seems the ID1000s are preferred by most people here.

Evergreen

iTrader: (6)

Oh haha. Yeah I see that now. I was sleep deprived earlier. Been a long weekend. I do see that the IDs are popular. But are the worth $150 more for around 300whp. Its only money but Im not sure how they would be better than the DW. If I could get E85 here I would be buying some big IDs though.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

Its not pure power potential that differentiates 1 vs the other. They will be way way better because of what I mentioned above. If you don't care how smooth and precise your fueling is, then I guess there's no difference. Most prefer their car to run more efficiently and smooth though.

Evergreen

iTrader: (6)

If they are that much smoother I will definitely want the IDs over the DWs. I had DWs in my Suby and they seemed to work just fine. If IDs are noticeably better I would rather go that route. Thanks for the advice