About to buy a BP from a 2002
06-28-2012, 02:04 PM
#2
im guessing motor is out and not running. Leakdown test.
leakdown is supposed to be done on a warm motor but since you dont have that it will suffice on cold. basically you want consistency across all cylinders and less than 30% leak. when running the test if there is a decent amount of leak you'll hear the air from the test escaping from the exhaust side of the motor, intake side, dip stick shoot, or somewhere in the coolant route.
exhaust leak is most likely valves stuck open do to carbon or bent valve. same for intake leak. a lot of loss out of the dipstick means most likely warn cylinder walls or ring issues, coolant is head gasket issue. I just went through this with a 99 motor and the valves weren't seating so i got a valve job.... while the head was off i took apart the rest of the motor and decided to do a full refresh plus some new rods for mo boooost.
could have gotten away with just the valve job.
if you're interested i did the leakdown myself. i went to harbor freight bought about 20 bucks worth of gauges and a pressure regulator and made a tester myself. took my small air compressor with me and tested on the spot. if you find failures then you can adjust your price accordingly. if you're lucky the seller of the motor can test it for you. if you're interest in doing this then i can do a more detailed right up but if you're not interested you can always just buy and drive and cross your fingers.
leakdown is supposed to be done on a warm motor but since you dont have that it will suffice on cold. basically you want consistency across all cylinders and less than 30% leak. when running the test if there is a decent amount of leak you'll hear the air from the test escaping from the exhaust side of the motor, intake side, dip stick shoot, or somewhere in the coolant route.
exhaust leak is most likely valves stuck open do to carbon or bent valve. same for intake leak. a lot of loss out of the dipstick means most likely warn cylinder walls or ring issues, coolant is head gasket issue. I just went through this with a 99 motor and the valves weren't seating so i got a valve job.... while the head was off i took apart the rest of the motor and decided to do a full refresh plus some new rods for mo boooost.
could have gotten away with just the valve job.
if you're interested i did the leakdown myself. i went to harbor freight bought about 20 bucks worth of gauges and a pressure regulator and made a tester myself. took my small air compressor with me and tested on the spot. if you find failures then you can adjust your price accordingly. if you're lucky the seller of the motor can test it for you. if you're interest in doing this then i can do a more detailed right up but if you're not interested you can always just buy and drive and cross your fingers.
Last edited by krissetsfire; 06-28-2012 at 02:42 PM.
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06-28-2012, 03:35 PM
#14
I'm going to just link the info i used to do my test. If you'd like me to write up in depth instructions out side of this i will but this should be good enough.
howto make a tester:
instructions on testing:
you can get all the gauges and pressure regulator , air hose, and fittings from harbor freight. my tester worked fine regardless of the cheap harbor freightness. i had a compression tester and just used that hose. the only tricky thing to fine is a #60 bit. you can either order it online or check a hobby shop. lowes or home depot won't have it. i got mine at the largest ACE in western united states so if you have any specialty stores like that they may have it. if you don't have a compression tester already it doesn't hurt to have one in your tool arsenal if you can i'd snag one of those too. just keep in mind when you buy one. how youre going to connect the hose to the leakdown tester.
example. my leakdown tester has a fitting on the end i was just able to screw on to an air hose. i'll take pics when i get home. some compression testers are all built into the hose. you need to be able to remove the valve if you use that type.
howto make a tester:
you can get all the gauges and pressure regulator , air hose, and fittings from harbor freight. my tester worked fine regardless of the cheap harbor freightness. i had a compression tester and just used that hose. the only tricky thing to fine is a #60 bit. you can either order it online or check a hobby shop. lowes or home depot won't have it. i got mine at the largest ACE in western united states so if you have any specialty stores like that they may have it. if you don't have a compression tester already it doesn't hurt to have one in your tool arsenal if you can i'd snag one of those too. just keep in mind when you buy one. how youre going to connect the hose to the leakdown tester.
example. my leakdown tester has a fitting on the end i was just able to screw on to an air hose. i'll take pics when i get home. some compression testers are all built into the hose. you need to be able to remove the valve if you use that type.
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06-28-2012, 03:36 PM
#15
I see it now :
http://cdn0.autopartsnetwork.com/ima.../640/PC360.jpg
at the front of the exhaust cam sprocket
http://cdn0.autopartsnetwork.com/ima.../640/PC360.jpg
at the front of the exhaust cam sprocket
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