jandjracing_58

First off, please don't give me **** about repeat threads, it takes 10 second to reply this post.

I know what I'm going to torque my head stud nuts to.

I'm looking for specs on what to torque the stud into the block.

Much obliged

glade

iTrader: (2)

I'd say 190-200 ftlb....since it takes like ten seconds

pdexta

iTrader: (17)

I believe "finger tight" is the spec you're looking for. There's a allen key fitting on the end of the stud, I always just snugged it down with that, but my **** always blows up so maybe don't do that.

soviet

iTrader: (10)

a few kilograms

99Racer

go to the product source...

ARP | The Official Web Site

williams805

iTrader: (2)

Finger tight.
There is a video somewhere with an ARP rep saying why exactly.
Basically don't want and side load on the stud. Just a staight pull. By only going finger tight in the block the stud still has fredom to move around allowing the nut and washer to determin the "straight pull".
Something like that.

jandjracing_58

Your were correct, thank you. But I'm wondering why they want 80ft lbs? I'm not going past 60, nope nope nope

jandjracing_58

Thanks for the link

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

You're going to use an ARP product because they're superior, but choose to ignore their instructions?


Curious choice.

jandjracing_58

Not so much ignore just weary of cracking my head, I did it to my 99 headed following those instructions. I think this time I'll split from factory to the ARP suggestion and just do 60

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

There's no way possible that torquing those studs to ARP's specs in the proper manner will cause your head to crack.

On the contrary, torquing ARPs to factory specs can and will probably make your head gasket leak.


If you're going to use factory torque specs, then use factory hardware.

bbundy

ARP torque spec of 80 for a 7/16 bolt with moly is just rediculus. and I can say it can and did crack a head. The Miata aluminum head under their tiny washers squishes with permanent deformation with that much clamp load. 20 to 30% increase in effective clamp load over stock is probably Ok more than double is silly.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

Weird. I took the set on the f2 to 100ftlbs, miata to 80. No issues.

asmasm

iTrader: (1)

This thread:
https://www.miataturbo.net/engine-pe...e-miata-54746/

18psi

iTrader: (76)

it takes 10 seconds to search

you just think you're special

jandjracing_58

Wow, I might as well close my eyes and turn the wrench based on all this confusion. There's too much bullshit on most of these threads.

I'll go 70 and just trust my intuition

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Torque spec? ALLOFIT

18psi

iTrader: (76)

so let me get this straight:

-you ask a question that has been discussed and easily found
-you tell everyone to spoon feed you the info cause you're too special to adhere to the rules everyone else does
-you call people out
-you conclude the thread with calling everyone a bs'er

Congrats. I don't think you coulda been more of a douche if you actually tried.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

By the way: to all those that spoon fed him - this is the direct result of your spoon feeding, self entitled douchenozzles that will never actually learn

williams805

iTrader: (2)

I did 78 ft lbs. I thought I read from either Emilio or Andrew about not going over 85 or something like that. Don't quote me on that but it's what I recall. I figured that was close enough to 80. + The lube on thread and nut and washer I figured that was plenty.